The plan has come together

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fireview2788

Minister of Fire
Apr 20, 2011
972
SW Ohio
After reading post after post of which wood is good shoulder season or mid-season, how long it takes to season certain wood, and how important low moisture is I felt I had a decent handle on what I was looking for.

This time last year I c/s/s some silver maple. Based on the info I read here I believed it to be a relatively fast season (if done right) and good shoulder season. Today I pulled some off the stack, did a fresh split on a thicker piece, and checked the moisture. 14%!

Thanks to all the help here I feel good about my second year burning.

fv
 
i don't own a moisture meter (yet) but the pine that i split in april and dried in a pile on pallets is light as a feather and burns clean and hot. there's a big pile around the corner with a sign on it that says 'free pine' and no one has taken it. i have tons of downed pine in my woods so i'm not gonna go scrounging for it but i defintely would if i had a need for good shoulder season wood.
 
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We all had to learn what dry wood is.
1 year seasoned oak may not be dry or burn well, but it's called seasoned.
A wood seller selling "seasoned wood" is not lying. It may just be seasoned for only 1 or 2 days :)
"Dry" is more the "key" 20% or less moisture content.
For me, (no moisture meter), it's 2 year seasoned birch.
Burning dry wood & seeing how well it lights, burns & heats, I'm spoiled now :)
 
I can take any type of wood I want from the shed....poplar, pine, spruce, maple, oak, put it in the stove and have a good fire going in just a minute or 2. Cold.
Nice, dry, firewood. Ahhhh.
Six years ago, it probably took more than half an hour (I think I've blocked those memories, so I'm not sure how long), then it still didn't burn well for a while.
I'll cut down every tree I have (if I have to) to avoid that first, second, and third year wood burning nightmare from coming back. Matter of fact, that's what I've been doing. Not every tree.
 
i don't own a moisture meter (yet) but the pine that i split in april and dried in a pile on pallets is light as a feather and burns clean and hot. there's a big pile around the corner with a sign on it that says 'free pine' and no one has taken it. i have tons of downed pine in my woods so i'm not gonna go scrounging for it but i defintely would if i had a need for good shoulder season wood.

I don't own one either but have no plans on buying one. I'll simply keep on cutting ahead of time so all the wood is ready without any doubts.
 
After reading post after post of which wood is good shoulder season or mid-season, how long it takes to season certain wood, and how important low moisture is I felt I had a decent handle on what I was looking for.

This time last year I c/s/s some silver maple. Based on the info I read here I believed it to be a relatively fast season (if done right) and good shoulder season. Today I pulled some off the stack, did a fresh split on a thicker piece, and checked the moisture. 14%!

Thanks to all the help here I feel good about my second year burning.

fv
Nothing like dry, seasoned wood. I read a lot here before I bought my stove and bought several cords of wood before I even decied on what stove to buy.
 
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I can take any type of wood I want from the shed....poplar, pine, spruce, maple, oak, put it in the stove and have a good fire going in just a minute or 2. Cold.
Nice, dry, firewood. Ahhhh.
Six years ago, it probably took more than half an hour (I think I've blocked those memories, so I'm not sure how long), then it still didn't burn well for a while.
I'll cut down every tree I have (if I have to) to avoid that first, second, and third year wood burning nightmare from coming back. Matter of fact, that's what I've been doing. Not every tree.

Hey I remember that too. Blowing on the fire to get it started and having to allow at least 20 minutes to make sure it caught and got going. So glad I'm not having to do that anymore!
 
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