Thimble or Wall pass through? - or what I have there now?

[offroadaudio]

I've been burning my Quad insert for primary heat for 3 years now. Everything is good there.
This year I'm connecting a free standing Hearthstone Shelburne through a combustible wall and into a masonry chimney. I need a little help here, as this is a new type of connection for me.
The existing installation, which was burned for years by the previous owners goes like this:
Stove - some kind of connector pipe (they took it with them) - then at the combustible wall is a 12" piece of Metalbestos double wall pipe that goes through the wall, through the masonry block of the chimney and into the terracotta tiles. The chimney is about 30' high. There is a "pie-plate" that attaches to the drywall on the combustible wall around the Metalbestos pipe.

I would like to run rigid pipe down the length of the chimney - to a tee - and then I need the help...
does the tee feed a thimble - a wall pass through - or is the piece of double wall that's there meet standards?
Any pics or links would also be greatly appreciated - -thanks.

 

[Dave_1]

Use this link to see what your missing in your current setup.

http://www.hartshearth.com/productcart/pc/viewcategories.asp?idCategory=40&pageStyle=M

 

[offroadaudio]

OK - I'm still really confused by the options here. Please help clarify.

I've looked at the "combustible wall pass through" in the link above, and can't seem to wrap my head around the connections.
I'll have a 5.5" flex liner with a tee coming through the masonry chimney. The main question is, how and where would I adapt the 5.5" to 6", and can I use double wall through this thimble - the directions specifically state single wall. I did read through the directions twice - leading to more confusion!

OR

Selkirk makes an insulated pass-through that I could run a short piece of class A pipe through - I have the piece of class A already. Then I would convert from double wall stove pipe to 6" Class A, then have to convert / adapt the 6" Class A to the 5.5" Tee - still fuzzy here....?

Should I definitively be looking at the $250 Combustible wall pass throughs, because the conversion to class A is a band-aid - or are both acceptable?

Thanks - Happy Thanksgiving to all.

'FRank

 

[begreen]

What is the tile size in the chimney? Is the final goal to be able to connect the stove with double-wall pipe?

 

[offroadaudio]

BG - you are a dedicated man!
Yes, the goal is to connect to a SS flex liner in the chimney.
The inside dimensions of the tile are 7 1/8 x 7 1/8. I opted for for the 5.5" flex so that I could insulate with a blanket.
I wanted to go rigid as you suggested in another post, but I could not find 5.5" rigid.

So the flue path from stove is - double wall pipe (DVL?) to either (a. combustible wall pass through OR b. insulated thimble with class A pipe through wall to 5.5" tee.

Thanks again. happy Thanksgiving.

'FRank

 

[begreen]

If this is a clean straight shot down, I'm wondering if you couldn't do this with Simpson Duraliner. Download the catalog from http://www.duravent.com/?page=4a.php and see if all the parts you need aren't there. They have the through wall kits that direct connect to DVL double-wall pipe.

See what you think.

 

[offroadaudio]

That wall pass through looks good, and connecting to the DVL stove pipe will work perfectly, but still not sure about getting the 5.5" tee connected to the thimble.
I see a 6" to 5" reducer, but no 5.5". Maybe a call to Simpson is in order?
I could clearly use their 6" rigid all the way (OD is 6 5/8") but this increases the budget vastly. Still, safety first, so I might go that way.

'Frank

 

[begreen]

I don't think they make that pipe in 5.5". The 6" pipe lists an OD of 6 5/8" which should fit in a 7 1/8" flue. Getting the tee down there may be the issue, I'm not sure about its widest dimension. Give Simpson a call tomorrow and maybe ping one of the sweeps here to get guidance on that?

 

[offroadaudio]

I think that's the ticket.
I'll put a call into them - I did price it all out using ventingpipe.com and came to ~ $1,400!! Before shipping and Stove pipe - just liner and pass through, top cap
The 5.5" flex kit cost me $475 with shipping, so you can understand me wanting figure out a safe way and approved way to get that connected.
Thanks BG - let's go eat turkey (more turkey) and wrestle with the kids - I'll post some findings tomorrow.

'FRank

 

[begreen]

We be left coast, turkey is just getting into the oven here. But the house is sure smelling good!

 

[begreen]

Had a bit more time this morning and found a thread I wanted to refer you to if you go with 5.5" flex:

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/24818/#262051

For thimble details, Simpson has supplemental instructions, but they are only in html. Use the prev next option at the bottom of the page to advance through the instructions.
http://www.duravent.com/?page=instruct/dliner/403/L403.php

 

[offroadaudio]

That link was very helpful, and confirmed what Tom O. just told me in a phone conversation: The tee that comes with the flex kit will have a 6" snout. I've been beating my head against the wall and picking brains here trying to get 5.5" tee to 6" thimble and stove pipe - but the tee snout will be 6". There I go assuming again!
So for anyone who is going the 5.5" flex route, let me spell it out - I hope this saves someone some planning time:

I will run insulated 5.5" Flex King Pro (double wall flex with smooth wall interior) down a 7.25" x 7.25" clay tile flue
the 6" snout of the tee will be crimped and fed into a 12" piece of Metalbestos Class A pipe to go through a combustible wall. This connection will be screwed and sealed with furnace cement.
The Class A will transition to double wall DVL and run to the stove.

YEAH! Done. No more brain cramps. Thanks to Tom and BG.

'Frank

 

[begreen]

That actually brings up more questions for me. How does one screw the crimped snout to the class A, especially when it's flush up to the brick as it would have to be to provide total heat shielding? From the inside? Also, doesn't the class A need a thimble kit to maintain 2" clearance to combustibles all the way around?

 

[offroadaudio]

Yes to the thimble - I forgot to mention that. It's not the expensive $250 combustible wall pass through - these allow stove pipe to pass through the wall - it's more of an insulated spacer around $50 that maintains the 2" for the Class A.
As far as connecting with screws - you're right, might be difficult with the class A, but if the snout extends into the class A far enough - I'll be comfortable with a nice slathering of furnace cement to keep them connected - It'll be snug to begin with. Also the thimble gets attached to the masonry with high-temp silly-cone. So the class A is cemented into the clay tile, the snout passes through the clay tile into the class A, gets crimped, pushed on hard and cemented - and it's all contained in the insulated thimble.

Sound ok?

 

[begreen]

Sounds like it would work. It's definitely a practical solution and Tom has a mountain more experience than I with relining.

Still, I have unanswered questions if this were to be with Simpson pipe. I'm wondering if it could be done with their wall pass through. They're closed today, so I just emailed them to see what the support team says. They may come up with the same solution as Tom proposed. In the meantime, you can get going and be on the road to warmth. Good information!