1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)
    Caluwe - Passion for Fire and Water ( Pellet and Wood Hydronic and Space Heating)
  1. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    Do I have to brush can I just put some more creosote remover in one more night my back is in a lot of pain just don't know if I have it in me today.

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    I just got stove top to 450. I closed the by pass and about 10 seconds i was getting a puff of smoke out the door glass so I looked in the door glass and it look like the gases was igniting every time it puffed. I open the by pass back up got it to 475 on stove top closed it back down and now it has stopped puffing.
    1. why is it doing this?
    2. Until I get a cat probe what temp should I get the top of the stove before I close the bypass?
    I will have to custom order the cat probe.
  3. coltfever

    coltfever Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2011
    Messages:
    110
    Loc:
    Middle Tennessee
    Stan with the stove wanting to backpuff could be starving for air. Open the primary air up alittle more. I would say that until you get a cat probe when your stovetop reaches 350 degrees you should be good to close the bypass.
  4. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    My primary air was open all the way.
  5. mellow

    mellow Resident Stove Connoisseur

    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2008
    Messages:
    3,104
    Loc:
    Salisbury, MD
    From the look of those cats and pipe I say you have a draft issue if you are burning dry wood.
    pen likes this.
  6. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2011
    Messages:
    2,431
    Loc:
    Greenwood county, SC
    Yea 450 is nothing!! I can get that with small split green wood? That coating in the stove will burn off and turn to powder once you hit about 1300+ on your probe. Your foodlion wood should get way hotter than that. Your draft will be less in this temperature cause were not getting really cool till late at night, I live within a few hours of you.
  7. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    I am done with the wood stove for the year. I will try again next year. I will buy the telescoping double wall stove pipe and cat probe.
  8. JMartin

    JMartin New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2013
    Messages:
    8
    Loc:
    Durham, NC
    That happens to me when I have the combustors engaged and the draft slides open too much. I have to either open the damper some or close the draft slides some. My combustors are worn out/blocked up. Stan, I have the Appalachian 32B built early 80's. Our stoves are probably very similar.
  9. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    The damper/bypass was close and the slides air was open with new cats.
  10. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    Martin, is you door glass missing the gasket at the top and is used for an air wish?
  11. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2011
    Messages:
    2,431
    Loc:
    Greenwood county, SC
    If your back puffing your draft is not strong enough, i get that when its warm outside and my chinmey has not totally warmed up and i then choke the stove down to a slow burn, it will "whooof" every now in then in a firey explosion in the stove, will do it about every 30 seconds to few mins for about a holf hour or so then quit, i will just increase the primary air and it will stop. But in your case you cant as you said its wide open, still the same problem, not enough draft.
  12. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    Trying again tonight. Stove top got up to 475* stove pipe 250* on 6 splits closed bypass turn fan on and stove top drop to 400* and pipe 200*. open bypass 1/4" and its holding jumped back to 475*stove top 225* pipe. Look like the cat are burning the gases off. Maybe I just need to put more wood in.
  13. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2011
    Messages:
    2,431
    Loc:
    Greenwood county, SC
    Yea the more wood you put in the hotter it will get. Also if your measuring stovetop that's different, if my insert is at 450 even on the face of the insert its close to thermal meltdown!!! I guess I missed that and was thinking probe temp! My top prolly never gets over 350ish
  14. ckdeuce

    ckdeuce Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2008
    Messages:
    264
    Loc:
    Western, PA
    Pipe looks fine. No need for a sweep. Let it run wide open longer. I can only guess the you bought FL Wood because what you had was not dry. You will be fine.
  15. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    Yes the wood I had was not dry so I bought some wood from FL. But I just got some maple that has been standing dead for a long that just right.

    I will put 8 split in tonight to see how that works.

    But need to figure out how to get a better draft in my warm climate.
  16. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2011
    Messages:
    2,431
    Loc:
    Greenwood county, SC
    to fix it you need to get a 6" liner. But for right now see if you can fill the stove with kindling size splits and get that thing roaring if you need to. Don't send it to melt down but watch it. Leave the door cracked if needed, your going to try and get that chimney really hot, before closeing it down. Once you have it super hot it should draft better.
  17. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    How hot should I get the stove pipe and for how long?
  18. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    Stove top at 520* and pipe at 310*?
  19. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    stove top move on up to 540* pipe back down to 300*?
  20. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2011
    Messages:
    2,431
    Loc:
    Greenwood county, SC
    id say as hot as you can, with the temps your posting I think your a good ways from Meltdown, but with it being double walled I am not sure about your stove temp as to how close you are overfire.
  21. Woody Stover

    Woody Stover Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2010
    Messages:
    5,486
    Loc:
    Southern IN
    If you look at the smoke coming out before you engage, then after, there should be less or no smoke if the cat is burning.
    You'll have to see about the Maple when you burn it. I would throw only a split or two on a good coal bed; If moisture sizzles or bubbles out the end of the splits, obviously they aren't dry enough. In that case you could mix in some of the FL wood to get it burning better. For sure, get some of that dead standing stuff split and stacked, and start building up the bank for next season.
    As far as the low draft issue, I would try what bg and someone else suggested in the other thread; Add a 3' section to the top of your 8" setup, support it if over 5', and see how that works. That's going to be a lot cheaper than replacing with 6". :oops:
    You have a surface thermo on the pipe, single-wall stove pipe, correct? At 18" above the stove top, I don't think you want to get it above 500* or so, as the internal temp will be double that, probably getting close to the pipe rating for sustained temp. Some others that know more may chime in on this. As far as your stove top temp, is there an air space between the top of the stove and the actual top of the fire box (a space that the blower air passes through?) If so, 475 on the outer shell is pretty damn hot, I would think. The actual stove top temp is much higher than that if there's an air space between it and the shell...
    Looks like your weather is in the 50s daytime; Mighty hard to get decent draft with your setup until it hits that low of 30 during the night...
  22. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    My stove pipe is single wall then Class A double.
  23. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    There is a space but its like a step up and thermo is setting on the lower step which is the firebox.
  24. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2011
    Messages:
    2,431
    Loc:
    Greenwood county, SC
    I would think 700F is the top of what you would want to see on the stove top. And I personally would not want to sit there for long!!!
  25. AppalachianStan

    AppalachianStan Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2011
    Messages:
    557
    Loc:
    Clover SC
    550* stove top and 400* stove pipe is as high as I got it before it got to hot in the house!!! Its 86* and the stove is out.

Share This Page