Thinking so adding a stove in the basement

[Enzo's Dad]

For the past coupl of years I have been remodeling my basement, it used be an in law suite. I am almost finished and it will end up being almost 1100 square ft. About 850 is open space. I have a fireplace down there that I never use, I was thinking of putting a small stove in there as a space heater. I do not think this will heat my whole house, I just have become used to how a room feels with wood heat.. I also had the basement completely sprayed with spray foam, all walls and rim joists The floor is tile that looks like wood so it is not combustable


Now to my dilemma
1. New vs used
2. Small vs. medium
3. Insert vs hearth mount
4.... This will raise flags ,if go with an hearth mount installing it as a " slammer" or partial stove pipe

The run from the basement to the top of the flue is about 38 ft I am concerned that this is too much for an insert.

I have been reading a lot about the jotul 602 and I like it. I feel like it will do what I need, plus it just looks unique. I am attaching pictures of the hearth and a used 602 I found on line and I am looking for input.

 

[JA600L]

That 38 feet may be your best friend with a basement install. Is the rest of the house well insulated especially the attic? The basement is probably in a negative pressure environment. With the spray foam it is not getting much fresh air either. Take these things into consideration. The stack effect can really mess up how a stove works, smoke spillage, etc. Is it an exterior chimney?

 

[Enzo's Dad]

That 38 feet may be your best friend with a basement install. Is the rest of the house well insulated especially the attic? The basement is probably in a negative pressure environment. With the spray foam it is not getting much fresh air either. Take these things into consideration. The stack effect can really mess up how a stove works, smoke spillage, etc. Is it an exterior chimney?

Goes through the garage and Hampton hi300 is running full time in the flue next to it, one floor above

 

[begreen]

All good points and concerns. 38ft is a lot of chimney. The stove may need a key damper to reduce draft. Definitely if you go with the Jotul 602. The 602 is an small area heater. If the space is well insulated it will do the job of heating the basement space,only. Expect to feed it once every 4 hrs.

Slammer installs are not legal anymore. What are the dimensions LWD, front and back of the fireplace?

 

[iluvjazznjava]

The tall chimney is a good thing for a basement install - you can reduce draft with dampers, but creating more draft is more challenging. I have a wood stove in my basement with a roughly 28ft chimney and there are times it won't draft well and I have to prime the flue by burning alcohol jelly before I can light a real fire. Once it gets going, it drafts just fine. Your house if probably tighter than mine too, which hurts draft. Whatever you do, you will most likely want an outside air kit to feed your primary combustion air. They are code required in my area, but I would install one regardless because they do help a basement stove draft better in a negative pressure environment. It's safer too - much lower chance of having issues with carbon monoxide. Not sure if the Jotul 602 is capable of having an OAK setup. If your goal is to have a little space heat, then it may work. If you want to heat anything more, find something larger.

 

[Enzo's Dad]

The opening is about 29 high not sure on the depth

 

[bholler]

4.... This will raise flags ,if go with an hearth mount installing it as a " slammer" or partial stove pipe

Yes it needs a liner no question.

 

[begreen]

The opening is about 29 high not sure on the depth

I would consider a Jotul F3B instead of the 602. It can be configured rear-exit at 22 9/16" center line, 28" to the top of the stove. The F3CB will take up to 18" wood and has a nice fireview.

 

[Enzo's Dad]

It's been on my radar, there is also a Hampton and a hearthstone that have rear exits at that height

 

[begreen]

The Hampton H200 is a nice little stove.

 

[Enzo's Dad]

My fear with going with one of those stoves is that I'll get way into running 2 stoves all the time. I have been thinking about this for over a year.

Another concern is by the time I spend the money and time on a liner is a stove like the 602 worth the effort....but at the same time I don't want to break the bank

 

[jatoxico]

My fear with going with one of those stoves is that I'll get way into running 2 stoves all the time. I have been thinking about this for over a year.

Another concern is by the time I spend the money and time on a liner is a stove like the 602 worth the effort....but at the same time I don't want to break the bank

Put the right liner in and you can always upgrade stove a couple years down the line.

 

[JA600L]

What is your budget?

 

[Enzo's Dad]

Not sure.....I could hold out till summer saw the Hampton h200 in August for 1300...I would say 2 k tops

 

[Ashful]

My fear with going with one of those stoves is that I'll get way into running 2 stoves all the time.

1. What's wrong with that?

2. You can stop any time, or so they say...

What's the ruling on running OAK pipe up from stove to rim joist? BKVP said this should not be done, lest the OAK reverse and act as a chimney, but this seems impossible to me with the chimney being 3x taller than the OAK. Maybe a problem with open door burning, but not in a sealed system.

 

[iluvjazznjava]

1. What's wrong with that?

2. You can stop any time, or so they say...

What's the ruling on running OAK pipe up from stove to rim joist? BKVP said this should not be done, lest the OAK reverse and act as a chimney, but this seems impossible to me with the chimney being 3x taller than the OAK. Maybe a problem with open door burning, but not in a sealed system.

I run the OAK on my F55 up and out through the rim joist - the intake is probably 8 or 9 feet above the stove. Jotul says intake should be lower than stove, building code says I must have an OAK no matter what - building code won, but I haven't had any problem with my setup.

 

[tcassavaugh]

i have a 602 that i no longer use. it was the little stove that could back in 93....or was it 94. we had just gotten married and my wife had a friend that had a "small wood stove" that was offered to her and she asked me if she should take it. we already had a thimble through the ceiling and i told her to jump on it sight unseen. well, it ended up being a little jotul that i carried to the truck....lol. anyway, a few months later, we had a heck of an ice and snow storm and power went out for days. that little stove heated a split level and cooked meals for six on it. its a small stove taking only 16 in wood but its the little stove that could. i currently have an F3CB that i bought because i liked the 602 so much. i heat my 1200 sq ft ranch with it. either stove is a great stove. good luck.

 

[kennyp2339]

1. What's wrong with that?

2. You can stop any time, or so they say...

What's the ruling on running OAK pipe up from stove to rim joist? BKVP said this should not be done, lest the OAK reverse and act as a chimney, but this seems impossible to me with the chimney being 3x taller than the OAK. Maybe a problem with open door burning, but not in a sealed system.

If you going to do a basement install, install the stove and chimney first and measure the draft, you may not need the OAK *This comes from recent experience on my part.

 

[iluvjazznjava]

If you going to do a basement install, install the stove and chimney first and measure the draft, you may not need the OAK *This comes from recent experience on my part.

You may not need it, but you may want it anyway. OAK allows the combustion air to come from outside the house, so you aren't using the conditioned air inside the house to feed the stove. Building code in your area may require it too. Insurance where I am won't insure a house with a wood stove unless they have seen sign off from a building inspector. Perhaps your area is different.

 

[Enzo's Dad]

I really don't know, the basement is a walkout, with a door and 4 full size double hung windows
I know the house was built with the masonry fireplace approved and if I am using that I need to follow the rules of having a full liner to the top. The thing drafts well now, I am worried that a 6" flue attached to the jotul might act like a vaccum cleaner

 

[kennyp2339]

You may not need it, but you may want it anyway. OAK allows the combustion air to come from outside the house, so you aren't using the conditioned air inside the house to feed the stove. Building code in your area may require it too. Insurance where I am won't insure a house with a wood stove unless they have seen sign off from a building inspector. Perhaps your area is different.

Right, but under the right conditions like my failed install, I developed a super charged draft and still had excessive air coming out of my t-stat cover from the 3" duct, yes that problem could be solved either by increasing the chimney diameter 6" to 8" or putting in a gate valve to restrict in coming air, but why bother doing all of that if you don't need that. Also some people say an oak that has its intake higher than the stove is dangerous, under the right conditions a reverse draft can happen, if that were to happen the hot gases going through it would lite your house on fire, or co gas can spill into the room causing a problem also.

 

[bholler]

I am worried that a 6" flue attached to the jotul might act like a vaccum cleaner

Just put in a stack damper and you will be fine. Also with older stoves like that you can shut the air down all the way so you can control them better if you have excessive draft.

 

[begreen]

If you mean the older Jotul 602 definitely add a key damper. Strong draft will cause it to burn hot. The stove is a very willing heater but it's easy to overfire without vigilant regulation. The air control is not airtight. Also, without a key damper in the flue it tends to send up too much heat up the chimney.

 

[bholler]

The air control is not airtight.

Really the ones i have worked on where all pretty tight.

 

[begreen]

If you look at the design of the spinwheel intake it is just metal shutters against the door body. It works pretty well, but gets sloppier with age. With good draft it is also very touchy to set at low levels. Crack it open just a hair and the fire can take off it is dry pine or fir. A key damper makes a big difference in the precision of control.