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Tile around fireplace insert

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by paulgp602, Aug 18, 2006.

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  1. paulgp602

    paulgp602 Member

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    Hi, My brick around my insert is smoked and I would like to tile around the insert. My question is can I use smaller tile found at home depot to do this? I have seen some of the tile projects on here, but my situation requires that I use smaller tiles. Also what method would you recommend to hold them to the brick? Also, do I grout between them like in a shower's tile or do I need special grout? The brick doesn't even get hot when using the stove, so I am hoping I can use the tile from the bathroom section at Home Depot. I have done bathroom tilework before and just need a general direction. Thanks in advance

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  2. wg_bent

    wg_bent Minister of Fire

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    I would clean your brick with an acid wash then use a morter type mastic that they sell at HD to stick the tile to the brick. I'm not sure the other mastic is fire proof, plus your sticking masonry to masonry.

    All tile needs to be grouted. I'd use a floor type grout around a wood stove, since the sanded grout probably looks better. Since your sticking it to a brick surface, you've got a very solid base, you can probably use a thinner/cheaper tile. Pick what looks good, but I looked at HD and they really do have a very limited selection. Plus you can find tile at tile stores that's discontinued and is less expensive. Also it's not that much tile, so look at tile stores and they may have somethign that fits and looks better. It takes a lot of time. My wife an I took months to get the tile and layout right. In the end it came out very nice and we're happy with it. I'd be glad to discuss if you like here or in PM or phone...just let me know how I can help.
  3. paulgp602

    paulgp602 Member

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    Thanks for the offer of advice Warren. I was considering using the Construction adhesive type of cement that comes in caulk gun size tubes (similar to Liquid nails). Does this hold up to heat well that would be on the front floor tiles in front of the stove's window? I have used this stuff before and the bond it offers is hard to beat.
  4. wg_bent

    wg_bent Minister of Fire

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    I wouldn't. Basically that stuff is tile mastic. Try this...put some on the garage floor and let it harden. Then remove it and subject it to heat. Propane tourch? Or maybe heat up a big bolt with the torch and touch the hot metal to it. See what it does.
  5. paulgp602

    paulgp602 Member

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    I was thinking of taking a test tile and adhering it to a piece of plywood using the construction adhesive, then after a day or so using my heat gun to bring the temp up to see what happens. The way my hearth is now is the tile are kind of short and then there is hardwood floor. The hardwood floor gets warm when I use the stove. Not so warm as to burn your hand, but warm enough -probably like touching the hood of your car after the drive home from work.

    I bought one of those black millboard hearth extensions last winter (first year with new stove). It worked well, but I would like to bring the hearth out another 10" or so with tile so I wont need it.

    Here is the product's data sheet I am considering using:

    http://www.osiliterature.com/Image/PDF/sP20091.pdf
  6. wg_bent

    wg_bent Minister of Fire

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    200 degree service temp...Hmm...I'm sticking (pun intended) with my original suggestion of using a masonry product to stick the tile to it's base. Also, I wouldnt' use plywood...I'd use Durrock or Wonderboard as a base. That stuff won't burn even when subjected to the wood stove's fire directly for 10 minutes.

    I'm applying only my own opinion here...Maybe Elk or some folks with better experience and book knowledge can weigh in here.
  7. elkimmeg

    elkimmeg Guest

    Paul ther PL is not the right adheisive for the application. It is a petroleum base and should not be exposed to any heat 80 degrees above ambience. What you want and should use is a motar based thin set designed for tile, not a general construction adheisive Forget the torch approach and examine the ingredience from you own supplied link you need not to read further than petro to know it can't be used
  8. paulgp602

    paulgp602 Member

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    Thats a good point about the petro base. I don't understand why they would issue it a service rating of 200f, if it wasnt supposed to be exposed to higher than 80f over ambient? Here is a link from a mantel supply website that instructs the customers to use construction adhesive (non-petroleum):

    http://www.mantelsdirect.com/install/fireplace_surround_facing.html

    I will look into mortar based products though.
  9. riguy

    riguy New Member

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    Hi,

    I had the same issue with my brick. In my case, I not only wanted to get cover up the blackened bricks but also needed to remove some of the wood molding around the firebox opening due to clearances. I posted a link from a previous post that includes pictures of the finished tile job plus what it looked like before. I got all the tile/supplies from Home Depot. Also, I believe I used sanded grout? I could verify if you want. I should think the folks at the store could tell you what to use if you explained the application. The tile job was very easy (my first time). Just be sure to secure all the tiles with tape overnight while it cures (before grouting). Good luck.

    http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/1807/
  10. PAJerry

    PAJerry Member

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    Our open fireplace had really sooty brick and we just washed it with an acid wash and tiled it using a mortar-type mastic. All tile does not need to be grouted. The 4 X 6s we used have a decorative dark brown border and were designed to be left ungrouted. Made the job easier and no grout to get dirty again. Now that we have the insert, that is not an issue.
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