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Timber/Log Jack - any good?

Post in 'The Gear' started by Jerry_NJ, Jan 10, 2013.

  1. nate379

    nate379 Guest

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  2. TreePointer

    TreePointer Minister of Fire

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2010
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    2,048
    Loc:
    Western PA
    It's one of their popular items, so if you subscribe to their email advertisement, they reduce the price and/or offer free shipping on it every so often.
  3. nate379

    nate379 Guest

    No free shipping to AK. I had to order an item a few years ago that I could only find through them. 15lb box was close to 100$ in shipping.
  4. TreePointer

    TreePointer Minister of Fire

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    Loc:
    Western PA
  5. MrWhoopee

    MrWhoopee Minister of Fire

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    Shingletown, Northern California (elev. 4000 ft.)
    For logs like you are describing, I layout the cuts the full length of the log with my chalk marker,
    Log marker.jpg
    Log marker detail.jpg

    then grab the saw and make all of the cuts, stopping when the kerf just starts to close up. Then I roll the log with my Northern Tool timberjack with solid fiberglass handle and complete the cuts. With the cuts this far down, I can usually insert the nose of the bar into the existing cut instead of trying to line it up by eye. I haven't used my timberjack as a stand, just as a cant hook. Too much work to keep repositioning after a couple of cuts.
  6. MarkinNC

    MarkinNC Minister of Fire

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    Loc:
    Leicester, NC
    One can pound the hook part (not really sure what they call it) of a peavey, timberjack or cant hook into the log with a small sledge. This will, of course, provide a much better grip and reduce a lot of the falling etc. I actually learned this on a really large chestnut oak that we pounded in the hooks on 2 peaveys to roll it onto a tractors forks (trailer-able lengths).

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