Timberline (no hook)

[n6crv]

Hello, recieved the Timberline today. I seem to be having some trouble with it. Trying to sharpen a Oregon .325 22PLX chain using the 3/16 cutter. When done I have what I would say is no hook or curve to the cutter. I have tried lowering the jig but then the chain gets caught and it will not move. I went thru sharpping the chain 2 times and still the same. Also notice that the pawl is already showing wear where the chain tooth hits it and the carbine is also cutting into it. The chain is about only 5% used. The chain cuts good but nothing to get excited about!
Also read where it was sugested to tighten the knobs with pliers. Mine are made out of plastic and would worry they will brake. Were the older ones made out of metal?
Any thoughts will be a great help!

 

[Nixon]

I don't really know what to say other than to look at the timberline video . Also , call timberline if you continue to have difficulties. As to the wear on the pawl caused by the cutter .... Pull it further out when advancing the chain .
Asto the plastic knobs, when did that happen ? Sounds cheap.

 

[DexterDay]

Plastic knobs....?? Should be aluminum?

Watch the video and make sure you get it level. Paying attention to how the carbide goes into the cutter. And taking off to much or making it to tight, will allow the carbide to come out of adjustment.

 

[muncybob]

I seem to recall somebody complained about the knobs on there unit and they sent new ones......

 

[ScotO]

do you have the proper carbide for your chain? sounds to me like you have too big of a carbide for the chain you are trying to sharpen......

 

[n6crv]

do you have the proper carbide for your chain? sounds to me like you have too big of a carbide for the chain you are trying to sharpen......

Hello, that is what I thought at first. It is 3/16 and that is what it shows for the .325 chain. I have tried it again and still it has almost no curve at all. It does not look anything like the chains that I have use a file on to sharpen. Will keep working at it as with all the good reviews it has to be me LOL.

 

[Nixon]

Just for grins , sharpen the chain ,and whatever the hook , use it . See if it does a good job . The lack of hook could be a sub normal of the fig newton . Yeah , I know .... Highly technical terms in a chainsaw forum a bad form . I just couldn't put it into Layman's terms .

 

[n6crv]

Just for grins , sharpen the chain ,and whatever the hook , use it . See if it does a good job . The lack of hook could be a sub normal of the fig newton . Yeah , I know .... Highly technical terms in a chainsaw forum a bad form . I just couldn't put it into Layman's terms .

That is what I did and it cuts ok but nothing great. Here is a picture of what the chain looks like. The difference is my rakers look correct. Hope it is OK to use this picture as it is from another thread.

 

[jeff_t]

I'm not sure what the issue is with this thing. I looked at the instructions, clamped it on the bar, and went to town.

I got mine secondhand, and the pawl has been damaged by the cutter, though not enough to affect operation. The only way I can see that happening is with improper setup and use. Yours might be damaged too much. I think that was the problem with the one where you got the pic.

The knobs on mine are plastic. I haven't needed too crank them with pliers yet. The previous owner had apparently gotten a pair of aluminum knobs, though. They are still in the case. Maybe the aluminum ones are what they put on them now?

 

[Nixon]

If you are that far back , maybe try a 5/32 burr .' it also looks like your burr is riding very high in the tooth.

 

[n6crv]

If you are that far back , maybe try a 5/32 burr .' it also looks like your burr is riding very high in the tooth.

Hello, my cutters are not that short I would guess they are about 95% left. I have tried getting the burr/jig lower but then you can't pull the chain thru to the next cutter. I have used one of the jigs that uses a file and don't seem to have the trouble. The Timberline looks like it will do a great job if I can get it working. I'm starting to think like you the burr is to large.

 

[Nixon]

Don't know what to say here ,as I've never had a problem with mine . Maybe use a Husq file guide or something to get back to a normal profile ,and go from there.

 

[ScotO]

mount it up on your bar and chain, exactly as you would to sharpen it, and take a pic. We'll go from there. It sounds like it is not seating down on the bottom of the cutter like it should......

 

[n6crv]

Sorry can't take a picture but only with my Cell phone and it looks BAD. What I did was take my Dremel with a 3/16 burr and lowered the hook/curve right down to the link. Then went back to the Timberline and tried again and it looks good. Will have to see if it keeps working or if I'm going to have to grind the chain down again. Right now it cuts great and even went down a little lower on the rakers and taking good bites without grabbing
Thanks! for all the help.
Don
.

 

[jeff_t]

Was this a new chain, or did you have it sharpened at a shop that maybe did a really crappy grind? Was there a hook in the cutter before you started with the Timberline?

 

[n6crv]

Was this a new chain, or did you have it sharpened at a shop that maybe did a really crappy grind? Was there a hook in the cutter before you started with the Timberline?

It was sharpen a couple times. I use a Diamond burr with a Dremel and was just going down like the factory hook. The Timberline would ride above where it needed to be. If I tried to get it down the chain for some reason would get hung up. Now it is working alot better. Think it might take a couple more times to get where it has the shape that the Timberline likes as it hangs some getting the burr into the tooth when using the front hole on the TL. Do notice that the Diamond burr gives a more polished cutter. So far have only cut some Ash and Maple that I had laying around. Will see when I get to do some real cutting how the chain holds up. I will say I am a pain in that I like my chains sharp to where they self feed or very little pushing into the wood.

 

[jeff_t]

I have only hand filed my chains. Maybe that is why it worked well from the start. And if this does a precision job, i have been doing pretty good with a file. I spent ten years or so in a screw machine shop, grinding tools, modifying tools to make them work like I wanted, setting up different fixtures, and such, so it was kinda natural.

I bet if you start with a new chain, it will work perfectly.

 

[Ashful]

It sounds like you have assumed any 0.325 chain takes a 3/16" file. Are you sure this is the proper file diameter?

 

[n6crv]

It sounds like you have assumed any 0.325 chain takes a 3/16" file. Are you sure this is the proper file diameter?

I thought the same thing at first wrong size cutter. But it does say 3/16 on the box, only thing different was the 10* that was called for. Would of tried a new chain but really did not want to do anything to mess up a new chain. Will just wait till I need to replace it. A friend has the same saw and a new chain same as mine. I bet I could offer to try it on his LOL.

 

[Ashful]

Just so we're on the same page, you mean on the box for the chain? Any chance your saw shop made that chain from bulk, and just dropped it into a random box for some other type of chain? My saw shop does that, but they usually scribble out the part number on the box to indicate that's not what's in the box. Do you know the chain number?

 

[n6crv]

Just so we're on the same page, you mean on the box for the chain? Any chance your saw shop made that chain from bulk, and just dropped it into a random box for some other type of chain? My saw shop does that, but they usually scribble out the part number on the box to indicate that's not what's in the box. Do you know the chain number?

The type of chain is Oregon .325 22PLX. It saids on the Chain box 3/16 file. It is the chain with the "blue" cutters if that really makes any difference.
.

 

[Ashful]

Hmm... well, I'm out of ideas.

 

[MasterMech]

I've yet to see .325 chain that didn't take a 3/16" bit/file to sharpen.

 

[MasterMech]

It sounds like you have assumed any 0.325 chain takes a 3/16" file. Are you sure this is the proper file diameter?

I've yet to see .325 chain that didn't take a 3/16" bit/file.

 

[Nixon]

I've yet to see .325 chain that didn't take a 3/16" bit/file.

I've got several loops of Oregon 21 series chain it calls for 4.5 mm --11/64 " files. But for all intents and purposes ,3/16 " is fine and all I use.