Timberline Sharpener

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
My main thrust in getting one is I'm getting up there in years and the older I get the less steady I get with my hands (you know the story about having to use a magnifying glass to thread a needle...believe it.), so hand filing is harder now than when I was 30. The Timberline eliminates my unsteadyness. Thats the big reason I got one actually.

For old farts like me........ There, I admitted it._g
Lol well thanks for your input on it. It's nice hearing your opinion. I may try one down the road. I've really started liking the Pferd combo file.
 
I've got one. They're decent. I'll give it 5 stars for putting a RAZOR edge on my saw, but ease of use is a 3/5. The rear tensioner needs to be spring loaded, not screw loaded. Even on a new chain, I can't sharpen it like it shows in the video, alternating teeth each time. I need to do all of one side, then all of another, otherwise I'm taking off far too much on one side than the other.
 
20 sharpenings on a $20 cutter?

Not a chance. Website claims over 40 sharpenings on a cutter. I've done over 50 on mine and it still sharpens like a razor. My buddy who recommended it has done over 200 on the original cutter.

Q: How long will the carbide cutter last?
A: Carbide cutter lifespan is very much based on the user. However, much testing and customer feedback allows us to confidently claim a minimum of 40+ sharpenings. Users may very well exceed twice that number of sharpenings with careful use by not binding the carbide cutter, by always spinning clockwise, and by following the Instructions and reading our Tips and Tricks. Sharpening multiple old chains with a cutter will also increase wear on the cutter as it is reshaping the teeth to the most efficient cutting hook shape.

It is recommended to sharpen the chain often instead of waiting until it is extremely dull. This will make sharpening even faster with a quick touch up while reducing wear on both the carbide cutter and the chain itself.


https://www.timberlinesharpener.com/faqs
 
I agree with ^^^. I like to just "touch up" and not let the chain get very far below "the perfect chip". It only takes 5-6 turns on each tooth, and cutter cost in NOT a factor in considering this fine tool. I have no idea how many use's per cutter I get as it's not a noticable concern at all shapening 72 DL chains. I did break one soon after I got the TL, I may have been too agressive bringing a chain "back" but the way it broke, it seemed to me that it may have been over hardened & brittle. Prolly was me.
 
I said 20..... I'm over 20 but not by much so I'll have to report back later on this year and see just how far it does go....

Should go a long ways do long as you don't turn it backwards.

They still aren't worth beans for 1/4" PICCO chain, the cutters are just too small for the tool itself and I agree, theback adjustment should be spring loaded so thats just what I did, used a small spring from the parts bin and forgot to mention it.
 
On a 24" bar. Compared with a box of files a dozen at 14 bucks (and it usually takes at least one file every time). 20 bucks for a burr isn't bad. I can run them farther I use 20 as an average. Depends on how you use them, how much material you remove at one time and if you happen to turn them backwards, then they are good for one tooth....;lol

I don't care how good you think you are at hand filing, you can't compete with a jig mounted cutter for repetitive accuracy. Like I said previously, the Timberline is no good for 1/4" PICCO chain on a short bar ot maybe I should say it's doable but a PITA.

I'm happy with mine and obviously they sell a bunch or they wouldn't stay in business.


Not sure I'm understanding your post correctly. Are you saying you wear out a file every time you sharpen a 24"?

This can't be right, or you need to get some better quality files.
 
Not sure I'm understanding your post correctly. Are you saying you wear out a file every time you sharpen a 24"?

This can't be right, or you need to get some better quality files.

I pretty much burn up 1 file every time I do my 20" chain. I'm not a "touch up" sharpener though - When I sharpen, it's 15-20 strokes per tooth.
 
How many chains do you go through per year? Holy cow. I can go from extremely dull to razor sharp in 6-10.
 
On a side note, does anyone else have significant issues with the rear tensioner? I've finally screwed it all the way out and just put manual tension on the chain by pulling it into the sharpening file by hand. I'm otherwise constantly adjusting every few teeth.
 
Remove the thumbscrew from the pawl and put in a small spring (got mine from the farm store parts bin). That eliminates the slop.
 
  • Like
Reactions: j7art2
Not a bad idea. Does your spring just go over the shaft of the thumb screw then? If you're able, please snap a pic for me. That's the only thing I hate about this sharpener, is the rear tensioner. Using it makes me want to launch it across the barn after every tooth.
 
How many chains do you go through per year? Holy cow. I can go from extremely dull to razor sharp in 6-10.

I get 4, maybe 5 good re sharpens with a file. When I'm done its sharper than factory. I don't mess with it until I hit metal or dirt. I'm only cutting 5 - 10 cord a year and maybe a 1/3 of that is already bucked for me. So I would say maybe 3 chains a year, depends on how much I help friends.
 
I get 4, maybe 5 good re sharpens with a file. When I'm done its sharper than factory. I don't mess with it until I hit metal or dirt. I'm only cutting 5 - 10 cord a year and maybe a 1/3 of that is already bucked for me. So I would say maybe 3 chains a year, depends on how much I help friends.


There's some issues here. I buck 6-8 cord a day in the summer on weekends, red and white oak. I chuck the saw up in a vise every other tankful and it usually takes 4 strokes to get it back to cutting ribbons instead of chips. I run a 30 inch bar no skip on my MS660 and by keeping the files clean and paying attention, I get a lot of sharpens (at least 25) out of one before it's dull.

My MS361 gets at least 30 sharpens before the files even start to get dull. Something else going on here.
 
  • Like
Reactions: j7art2
There's some issues here. I buck 6-8 cord a day in the summer on weekends, red and white oak. I chuck the saw up in a vise every other tankful and it usually takes 4 strokes to get it back to cutting ribbons instead of chips. I run a 30 inch bar no skip on my MS660 and by keeping the files clean and paying attention, I get a lot of sharpens (at least 25) out of one before it's dull.

My MS361 gets at least 30 sharpens before the files even start to get dull. Something else going on here.

Nothing else is going on. I sharpen when I hit something - it's usually metal as the majority of my wood comes from alongside the road. Once one or two of the blades takes a good hit I take it down and make the rest even.
 
I find this very interesting. I used my Timberline all year last year, and cut 12 full cords of hardwood, to which I burned 11 of it. I just started cutting this year again, and so far have gathered the following for this year below. I am still using the original sharpener, and sharpen after every tank of gas. I use 1-2 chains a year with a 562xp.

IMG_20150315_165316905.jpg
IMG_20150315_185950830.jpg
 
Probably a stupid question, but you are turning the handle clockwise into the cutting blade, correct?
 
I'm using a regular file, not the timberline - yet.

Ah! That makes sense. You'll benefit from a Timberline then. Big time and money saver. Though I complain about it's usability at times because the rear tensioner is poorly designed, it puts a razor's edge on my saw. I cannot sharpen my saw now without gloves on or I'll filet myself. Done it twice now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: claydogg84
A bit back someone asked foe a picture of my spring on the adjustment screw pawl. I don't have a camera, it just goes between the pawl and the body and takes the 'flop' out of the pawl. IMO, for an expensive but useful tool, a poor execution and the only fault I can find, but fixable. I always wear a leather glove to pull the chain, that sucker is so sharp it will cut you without you knowing it....
 
  • Like
Reactions: j7art2
I couldn't get any of the discount codes to work but I ordered it anyways. $135 with shipping - I sure hope I like this thing.
 
I got mine and had a chance to give it a try. I really like it, easy to set up and use. I couldn't believe how good the chain cut.

Matt
 
I got mine and had a chance to give it a try. I really like it, easy to set up and use. I couldn't believe how good the chain cut.

Matt
Ditto; I have free hand file sharpened for 50 years with no adverse issues. I usually sharpen (touch up) with each fill-up and find I cut pretty close to a cord on a tankful. I got into some logs a few weeks ago that I had had to skid down off a rocky ridge and dirt in the bark made sharpening a real chore for this old guy. That was about the time I read this thread and I promptly ordered the Timberline. I sharpened both my saws with it before heading out this morning and I must say it does a teriffic job and is an effortless pleasure to use (especially for an old guy)......
 
Best to protect yourself from the little razor blades called filings! Take it from me they can be a real pain. If you keep a bit of light oil on the cutter that will also keep them at bay.


That is the other issue I have. I use carbide mill burrs and grinders quite often and HATE having to clean up and avoid the needles it leaves, as I've spent far too much time digging slivers out over the years. That and the price are the main reasons I haven't purchased one, even just to play with. I despise those razor sharp shards from this kind of grinding.