TN 20 getting too hot

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

Fletcher2003

Member
Feb 18, 2015
39
Ga
It's been a while since I have posted on here but I greatly appreciate the help I get from you all on this site. I have the Pacific Energy TN20 that I have been burning in for 2 years now. For the last week my stove has reached temps that I feel are too high and I can't seem to turn the air down soon enough. Tonight I had the air control completely shut down at about 375 degrees, 15-20 min later the stove is pushing 750. This was after reloading on a bed of coal and the stove was below 300 degrees. I loaded the stove with 2 big splits 1 small split and 2 or 3 really small whole logs. I left the door cracked until I got good flame then closed the door. Stayed right on top of it and continuously closed the air down until it was completely closed without losing my flame. I'm burning Oak that I cut and split and has been seasoned 2 years. Last split I checked a couple weeks back measured 16% with my moisture meter. That last 2 nights the stove got this hot and I thought I just waited too long to shut the air down completely. I live in georgia and the temps are colder than normal right now. I have seen post on here about colder than normal weather or high pressure systems possibly causing extreme drafts. Is this possible or could there be something else going on here? I looked at the door gasket earlier as I was loading and everything appeared to be normal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
How long is your liner/flue? Sounds like you just have a strong draft the shows up when its below normal cold.
 
Draft gets stronger as the outside temps drop and the differential between indoor and outdoor temps increases. A key damper in the stove pipe will help restore some control of the stove. Load larger splits to slow down the fire. Also, skip the leaving the door open after a reload and be more aggressive with closing down the air.
 
For the gasket, looked at it was a visual inspection or the dollar bill test?

Liner/flue is only around 15 ft straight up. No I have not done the "dollar bill" test. I'm assuming I would close the door and go around the door completely attempting to remove the dollar bill after closing the door on it? Other than not loading as much wood, if it is the colder than normal temps causing this is there any other options? Kinda sucks that on the coldest nights when I need the stove the most I would have to shorten my burn cycles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ok thanks, I'll try the dollar bill to make sure the door is sealing completely and also start shutting it down even sooner. Is 750-800 something I need to be concerned with? Not really sure at what point I should start attempting to throw some ash on the fire if it were to get out of control.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If you feel like it’s getting too hot, open the air all the way and open the door slowly but wide open. Essentially you flush a lot of the heat sitting inside up the chimney and the incoming cool air will help cool it down. Get it back to a comfortable temp, close it back up and let it keep going.