Totaled my chain saw

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When you guys make rope out of twine do you make it into small rope then into a thick rope or do you go right from twine to thick rope? another question what is the difference between 3 and 4 strand rope? well not really what the difference is but what difference it makes. for a big rope like that do you use the entire thing of twine?

I have been looking at this stuff and i think im going to make a rope machine out of cast aluminum this summer.
 
payton said:
When you guys make rope out of twine do you make it into small rope then into a thick rope or do you go right from twine to thick rope? another question what is the difference between 3 and 4 strand rope? well not really what the difference is but what difference it makes. for a big rope like that do you use the entire thing of twine?

I have been looking at this stuff and i think im going to make a rope machine out of cast aluminum this summer.

You start with twine and make a rope.

The 3 of 4 strand difference.
4 strand gives you a smoother rope.
3 strand makes it easier to get a nice rope.
I even have a 6 strand machine I built as a test. It is VERY hard to get a nice 6 strand rope.

As the rope is forming you need to keep all the strands at the same tension or you will get a lumpy rope.
That is very easy with 3 because you just pick which way to move the rope.
With a 4 strand machine what could you do if the upper left and the lower right strand were both starting to droop?
You would pick one way to go and get a lump in your rope.
Let us just say a beginner needs to start with a three hook machine before trying a four hook one.
You CAN make a 4 hook machine and just use 3 hook if you feel you must.
There is one other thing to consider,,,,

The man that made and sold thousands of these New Era rope machines made 3 strand machines.

Yes, I looked at the stated total feet of twine on that old package, divided that by 24 and paced off the result.
When I got it all strung out I think I had an extra nine feet of twine. That was cutting it pretty close.
If you read that New Era instruction book that I linked to you will see they use more strands than I do to get the same size rope.
They are using Binder Twine from the old Grain Binders of those days.
I use Baling Twine from the old Hay Balers.
Baling Twine is larger. The terms are not interchangable.
They use still another twine now for the big round bales.

You WANT to build a geared machine.
On a New Era machine the hooks turn just a little more than three times for each turn of the crank.
I hope this answers the questions you asked. 8>)))
 
Well, Hell Rusty, you're a Ford guy. 'Splains the need for havin' ropes on hand :smirk:
 
ISeeDeadBTUs said:
Well, Hell Rusty, you're a Ford guy. 'Splains the need for havin' ropes on hand :smirk:
Or you could just learn to tell Chevy drivers to call a tow truck, cause you don't have the time to pull 'em home...
 
Troutchaser said:
It's a Poulan Pro, 16". What would you do?

I'd look for a cheap saw on ebay or craigslist to use for repair parts. You also could buy another saw just like it and use your present saw for parts. I paid $150 for my 20" saw new. Seems like you ought to be able to find a new saw like yours for about $100. I've gotten about 200 hours of use out of my Poulan over the past six years. I would not recommend a Poulan to anybody but I've gotten my money's worth out of mine. For poor people like me, you just got to use whatever you can actually afford.

Only other advice I can give you that others haven't is, don't get impatient. I got my saw stuck pruning limbs from an extension ladder one time. I got impatient, then frustrated, and then mad. Then I got smart and just removed the powerhead, gave up for the day, and came back the next day when I had cooled off and easily removed the bar using a flat bar to pry open the cut.
 
I've done some looking around on the saw. All that is really broken is the handguard. I've got it completely back together minus fitting in that one piece, which I can get for around $25. Still a little question as to if it will all work as it's supposed to when it gets put together, but I'm going to go for it.
The guy at the shop must have been trying to sell me a Varna when he quoted that price. But then he'd have some time in it also.

Ya, hard to stop and walk away when you get frustrated. Lesson learned for me though.
 
Why not just epoxy it back together?
If there is any hollow area that could have a couple wires in it and be filled with epoxy.
I can't see it from here but I have repaired a lot of things this way.
I like PC-7
 
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