Tree felling technique

[TheLastDeadMouse]

I have a few trees I've cut down on my property mostly because they were either dead or crowded, and only for firewood secondarily. I'd still consider myself quite new to it however, and I've only fell a couple pines between 8-14 inches in diameter 2 feet off the ground.

I understand you only want your notch cut to be about 1/3 of the width of the tree, but what I don't understand is why. At first glance you'd think you'd want it to be about half to help ensure the tree fell the direction you wanted.

I'm also having trouble making the two cuts of my notch cut meet nicely perpendicular to the intended fall direction. I'm typically off by 10-15 degrees. Is this just a case where practice makes perfect, or is there a specific technique to it?

 

[sportbikerider78]

Hop on youtube and husky has a ton of good videos.

 

[Dobish]

there are a lot of different reasons, google is your friend. That being said, practice does help. Depending on your saw, there may be additional helpers that will aid in felling. some saws have lines on the back of the muffler casing, that line up so you can see where the blade is cutting. There are different methods to use in different occasions.

If you have any good practice trees, i recommend practicing. or even dig a hole and put a log in there if you want! i have a couple of trees that snapped off in late spring storms that are about 7' tall now, so i plan on practicing a few different cuts to see what it does to the overall tree felling...

just remember, if you are unsure, be safe. Get help, wear gear, and be safe!

 

[woodhog73]

I understand you only want your notch cut to be about 1/3 of the width of the tree, but what I don't understand is why. At first glance you'd think you'd want it to be about half to help ensure the tree fell the direction you wanted.

I'm also having trouble making the two cuts of my notch cut meet nicely perpendicular to the intended fall direction. I'm typically off by 10-15 degrees. Is this just a case where practice makes perfect, or is there a specific technique to it?

As for your face cut , or notch cut as you call it......the deeper your face cut the more chance the tree could simply start falling before you start your back cut. The entire purpose of your face cut is to establish the felling direction and set up your hinge wood ( your notch area). The more you can leave behind the notch means the more meat on the tree is left to keep it stable as you start your back cut which is the felling cut.

As for your felling direction. Do you have sights on your saw ? In many cases I start my face cut with the bottom cut perfectly horizontal, and I use the top of my bar. So starting my cut on the Non clutch side saw facing up. I can get a much better visual of where my trees gonna fall. Other times I use the bottom of the bar. Just depends on the situation.

Are you making your notch cut first ? ( angled cut ) or you face cut ( horizontal cut )

try making your horizontal face cut first. Cut roughly 1/3rd the diameter of the trunk. Then do your angled notch cut. Many new fellers find this easier.

 

[CincyBurner]

I understand you only want your notch cut to be about 1/3 of the width of the tree, but what I don't understand is why. At first glance you'd think you'd want it to be about half to help ensure the tree fell the direction you wanted.

You will get additional control with a deeper notch/ longer hinge, especially in instances where tree has a pronounced lean. For instance its cross-sectional shape (round v. out of round/ elliptical) will be a consideration. Leans (side and back) can be sometimes be overcome, but there are limits and recognizing them is important.
There are two types of notches that are commonly used: conventional (1/3 deep & 45 degree); and open-face (1/4 deep & 70-90 degree). The open-face notch permits control of the fall until tree nears ground.

I've plugged Jeff Jepson's book, How to Fell a Tree before https://www.amazon.com/dp/0615338798/?tag=hearthamazon-20
It's an inexpensive, concise, easy read, with good pictures and diagrams. It highlights that felling a tree is a process that includes site and tree assessment, estimations, as well as matching proper felling techniques.

I'm also having trouble making the two cuts of my notch cut meet nicely perpendicular to the intended fall direction. I'm typically off by 10-15 degrees. Is this just a case where practice makes perfect, or is there a specific technique to it?

Yes, a lot of practice makes perfect (or better). To grasp felling concepts you might want to start off by culling saplings that you don't want with a straight bladed (not curved) handsaw. Understand your chain saw. Most pro saws permit user to "gun" the felling direction by using saw's integral felling sight. Some aspects of felling are intuitive, but the cutter can check process along the way. A small, minor shift in notch shape can greatly affect the direction of fall. Notch can be adjusted/ corrected if enough of hinge is left, but if too much removed you can't add it back. Test yourself - estimate where top of tree will land (and mark ground).

 

[woodhog73]

You'll get a lot of advice with a question like yours. Always trust your instincts if it doesn't feel safe don't do it. At the end of the day it takes practice to become efficient as a tree feller and also to be confident. Dropping a 12 inch pine that's 25 feet tall is one thing, dropping a cotton wood that's 4 feet around in diameter and a couple hundred feet tall is entirely different . Same skills but one requires much more confidence than the other.

If you can get in person training from someone who has logged land or a firewood cutter who's been in it for years, someone who has felled hundreds or perhaps even thousands of trees in a lifetime, do it. If your about to fell a tree and you doubt yourself then ask someone with more experience to help you or teach you.

I've cut lots of trees in my lifetime. I've had my fair share of those moments where I thought I was going to crap myself as the tree was falling. Starting way back in my teenage years cutting with my dad.

The best advice anyone can give you is make sure you have an exit plan. If your in the forest or tight conditions clear a path where you know to go once the tree starts to fall . Make sure you know where your going to be standing as the tree falls. Study the lean, look for dead limbs high above that can fall apart and fall and hit you from above as your cutting . Anticipate worst case scenario every time you fell a tree. Look for rot in the trunk, etc.

Practice and be safe

 

[Wood Duck]

The depth of the notch should be enough to make a wide hinge. Deeper is not better unless it makes a wider hinge. Typically a third of the depth of the tree is enough.

 

[MAD777]

Husqvarna has a really well done video. The link is on their chainsaw Web page. Found it....



Sent from my QTAQZ3 using Tapatalk

 

[wolfe64]

The Husky videos are good. In NY we have Logger Training programs. Your state likely has them also. The first course in NY focuses mainly proper tree felling techniques. I had been felling trees on and off for almost 40 years. Found out that I had been doing it all wrong.

Google Logger Training in your state. Take some courses.

PS Wedges are your best friend.

 

[Dobish]

I've plugged Jeff Jepson's book, How to Fell a Tree before https://www.amazon.com/dp/0615338798/?tag=hearthamazon-20
It's an inexpensive, concise, easy read, with good pictures and diagrams. It highlights that felling a tree is a process that includes site and tree assessment, estimations, as well as matching proper felling techniques.

i just picked this book up over the weekend... it was very helpful and well written!

 

[Jeffm1]

I have a few trees I've cut down on my property mostly because they were either dead or crowded, and only for firewood secondarily. I'd still consider myself quite new to it however, and I've only fell a couple pines between 8-14 inches in diameter 2 feet off the ground.

I understand you only want your notch cut to be about 1/3 of the width of the tree, but what I don't understand is why. At first glance you'd think you'd want it to be about half to help ensure the tree fell the direction you wanted.

I'm also having trouble making the two cuts of my notch cut meet nicely perpendicular to the intended fall direction. I'm typically off by 10-15 degrees. Is this just a case where practice makes perfect, or is there a specific technique to it?

Lots of good answers here that are right on. At risk of being repetitious, basically you want enough meat left to make a good hinge. My first fell I ever did, I did like you are asking about, made it too deep, closer to half than a third. I was thinking the same thing as you. For whatever reason, whether it was lean or some wind higher up in the tree, it fell the exact opposite direction I wanted it too. Luckily, I was paying close attention and noticed right away what was happening and got out of the way. There was plenty of open space and it was mainly an inconvenience and slight embarrassment but had it been near a house, shed, or other building, or worse, a person (me or someone else), it would have been bad. But I learned to not cut so deep that I cut into the hinge. That little strip that they call the hinge is so important! If I had to rename it I would call it the control strip. Leave some meat to it and you can control the fall. Cutting though halfway you will loose control. Leave some meat and you will quickly learn you can make that sucker fall right where you want it to.

 

[xman23]

I've cut lots of trees in my lifetime. I've had my fair share of those moments where I thought I was going to crap myself as the tree was falling. Starting way back in my teenage years cutting with my dad.

LOL, you got me thinking of cutting trees with Dad. Those were the days of trial and error, (no internet). Not that I, as the kid had a clue what was wrong. But the trees landed in the pool, across my future car.

 

[Dobish]

don't do it like this;