I have an e 140 woodgun that was installed in 07 has worked well (not going to give a full review here)I left this morning for work with the woodgun loaded and operating . Upon arriving home it was running but firebox was empty i hit main power switch and did not here the usual "wrrerrr" of the combustion door closing and after investigating it is not . I have not had to have this thing worked on in the past. Trying to get someone . Should this be in the scope of any reputable boiler repairman or electrician ?The dealer has since retired and new owner has vague voicemail . What would you do ? I can rotate honeywell control with allen wrench.Green light does not come on . I have a lopi woodstove insert so i will be ok but any suggestion would be appreciated and I will continue to post maybe this is a spare part all woodgunners shoul have on hand eh?thanks
trouble with E 140 combustion air damper opening/operating
- Thread starter James Johnson
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Woodsrover
Member
The draft door stayed open? I believe this damper is opened under power and closes under a spring. The fact that yours got stuck open is a little scary. I guess it didn't over-fire enough to blow the pressure relief but I'd bet it was close.
It's a common part and though I haven't looked for one, I bet Grainger has it if you don't want just go right back to AHS. Should be a pretty simple part to replace and I'm sure you can handle it yourself.
It's a common part and though I haven't looked for one, I bet Grainger has it if you don't want just go right back to AHS. Should be a pretty simple part to replace and I'm sure you can handle it yourself.
Fred61
Minister of Fire
When power is applied to the motor it opens the damper and stalls up against a stop. You can't do that with all motors. Many will just burn up. When power is disconnected the spring returns the damper to the closed position.
I would first confirm that power is truly off to motor. If it is I would then check for obstructions. Over the course of burning my 140, I had pieces of wood ocasionally get stuck in the flap from either chucking them in or pieces that had gotten pushed back by loading wood on top. It can also be a place that can get a nasty accumulation of creosote caused by the cool air flowing through the area.
If all is clear, my next step would be to remove the assembly, bench check it again and if inoperative, try to locate a new one. I suggest calling AHS.
I would first confirm that power is truly off to motor. If it is I would then check for obstructions. Over the course of burning my 140, I had pieces of wood ocasionally get stuck in the flap from either chucking them in or pieces that had gotten pushed back by loading wood on top. It can also be a place that can get a nasty accumulation of creosote caused by the cool air flowing through the area.
If all is clear, my next step would be to remove the assembly, bench check it again and if inoperative, try to locate a new one. I suggest calling AHS.
I would call Darren at AHS.
If you don't like that idea, it is a standard Honeywell Spring Return Actuator. Pull the part number off it and search the web. Grainger sells them, but they generally aren't the most affordable place to shop for things like this.
ac
If you don't like that idea, it is a standard Honeywell Spring Return Actuator. Pull the part number off it and search the web. Grainger sells them, but they generally aren't the most affordable place to shop for things like this.
ac
Actually its not stuck open its just not working . the guys at ahs have been helpful and can get it here ups in 1 day once i diagnose . thanks for the info thought.
Gasifier
Minister of Fire
Hey James Johnson. Thanks for sharing this with us. Please let us know how this works out. Hope the best for ya and hope it is an easy, inexpensive fix.
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