TSC 22 ton log splitter - First impressions

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n1st

New Member
Jun 3, 2007
121
Enfield, CT
It went through almost everything i threw at it. Worst was 18" x 36" oak narly sections. On a couple of pieces, I had to reposition them.

Ok, it says to change the engine oil the first time after 5 hours. I did mine after 2. I recommend you do it after 1. Nasty nasty stuff after 2 hours. Changed it with 5w-30 synth wally mart brand. Oh, don't assume it takes a quart like I did. I had to pump the oil back out! It only holds 20oz. Hydro fluid stayed nice and clean.

Don't trust TSC - check the bolts. One engine mounting bolt was finger loose. ...of course it was the inside bolt which was the hardest to tighten. I also think it was upside down. Anyone else have the inside bolt mounted with the nut on the top?!
The two hitch bolts were rediculously loose - I'm glad I didn't tow it home.
The bolt holding the wedge on was not tight.
I also took the beam off and greesed the hinge pin. It swings nicely now but vibrates like crazy when running.

I'm not sure how much gas the tank holds, but it sure seems like a small amount. It's easy to overflow.

Engine starts easy if you prime it. ...don't they all when new!
 
What kind of pump do you use to pump the oil out? I'd like to change the oil in my Troy Bilt and I'm sure not going to be tipping it over, unlike how i change the oil in my father's snowblower and lawn mower... Do you just use a garden variety siphon or some specialty tool?

Jay
 
I use a little hand pump with pressure guage called a might vac.
 
they will split a lot of wood,the nasty stuff to.they are not as user friendly or laid out like the more expensive splitters but they do split wood.

the gas tank is kind of samll on the briggs engine,the two angled uprights that push any stuck wood of the wedge spread over time,splinters and chips get stuck on the end and build up,the return hose goes back into the tank right were split pieces like to fall and cut the hose.our valve still leaks to this day.i am tired of fixing it so i just let it leak.

many of the issues are easily modified and it is a good splitter for the money.
 
I stopped mine dead on a 20" hickory crotch this spring, that is the first time it wouldn't split something I threw at it. This is the third spring I used it and nothing has failed so far. Mine has started without fail so far, but I store it with a little Sta-bil in the fuel. I drain the oil from the plug below the engine, a 3/8 ratchet extension fits it. My only problem with the TSC assembly was it was low on hydraulic oil when I got it home.
 
N1ST "Don’t trust TSC - check the bolts."

I shop at TSC but I don't think I'd buy a big ticket item like a splitter there...over the years anything mechanical I got there just didn't hold up. In the early 80's I got a splitter at Whites farm supply that's still working well today mostly because they picked that one to sell because they have a reputation to uphold.

When it comes to small engine equipment like chain saws, splitters, mowers etc. I spend the few dollars extra for dealer knowledge and service. We have a great place just down the road a bit...Jeff Kahler, if one of my chain saws goes down when I'm on vacation he fixes it right then and there if he has parts cause he knows my time is important too.

And that has happened a couple of times over the years. When the time comes to replace my splitter that's the guy I'll see first. An extra hundred dollars saved won't even fill my vehicle twice...it's nothing compared to Jeffs dedication to his repeat customers. And besides all that he's a fine young Republican too and that's important to my wife.
 
I have the speedco 25ton which is the same thing with a 6.5hp briggs. I can tell you from experience I switched to synthetic and I still get a puff on startup, should have stayed with dino oil for a full season to seat the rings. Also the head bolts were like hand tight! Thanks Fleet farm! Just goes to show that chinese kids don't do the same quality work they used to ;~) Seriously it is a great splitter for homeowner use. I have never had a problem with it. I did use hydro trans fluid so that I can actually use mine in cold weather. It will start and stall 2 times and the 3rd just run and run. Big plus is the 6.5hp briggs is cheap on gas and if I smoke it I can buy a new one for 200 bucks! It beats my chopper1 axe anyday!
 
So, you're saying I should probably get the synth out of there and put normal oil in? When did yours start puffing on start up? Is your inside motor mount bolt mounted with the nut on top?
 
Got the Huskee 22 Ton from TSC a few months back. After a few hours of operation, noticed the motor mounts were loose and yes, the inside bolt is upside down. Other than that, no problems.
 
i never use synthetics during break in. just a rule for ring seating.
 
I am too lazy to remove, it should eventually seat. If I were to do it again I would wait. It seams like when I work it good that it smokes ever so slightly less so it is seating, just slowly. I can tell you that you will be glad to have synthetic in there when its cold. Think maple syrup when cold...now heat it in the microwave...that is how different it pulls! I used mine last night and the smoking is down on startup. Put it this way in 3 years it dropped from exact full to about mid way on the dipstick. I just refilled it.
 
That syn thing about rings is something from the past. Most motor heads will tell you that you can run syn out of the box and a lot of engines do run syn out of the box.
Now there are two million arguments about this on the web so make your own decision. I wouldn't worry about it if you broke it in with syn.

You can run dino or syn, who cares as long as you change your oil.
 
I agree, I run synthetic for ease of start up in cold weather. It will eventually seat the rings, just take longer.
 
I've got the 35 ton Huskee and it's in my top five best purchases. I've had absolutely no problems with it. Starts up easily, doesn't smoke and i've yet to come across a stick of wood it wouldn't blast apart (I can shear a 6" piece in half!)

As for any fastener issues....keep in mind those come as a kit and TSC assembles them. Also keep in mind they are paying a kid or retiree to assemble them but that's your individual stores problem and not the fault of the manufacturer. As for the hydraulic fluid being low when you received it...when I bought mine they said "you get 5gallons with it" but the manual says it requires 8.5 gallons (or something like that). I wouldn't leave my investment up to an assembler to make sure the fluid levels are full.

That is a good machine you purchased (and no, I don't work for TSC or Huskee...i'm just happy as hell with mine).
 
woodconvert said:
. As for the hydraulic fluid being low when you received it...when I bought mine they said "you get 5gallons with it" but the manual says it requires 8.5 gallons (or something like that). I wouldn't leave my investment up to an assembler to make sure the fluid levels are full.

When I bought mine they had 3 or 4 of each assembled and sitting in the yard and they do come with all required fluids. When I looked it over at the store they stated that the fluids were in and I check the engine oil only. After I towed it home is when I found out it was low on hydraulic fluid as it was barely registering on the the dipstick. I called them, and had to drive 10 miles back to get more.
 
When I bought mine they had 3 or 4 of each assembled and sitting in the yard and they do come with all required fluids.

Maybe it's a store by store basis but the guy that was assembling mine said it wasn't full of hydraulic oil (had some...NOT full) and I needed to purchase more (and as I recall....twas expensive even for the house brand hydraulic fluid).
 
I changed the oil on this splitter after 2 hours - it was absolutely crudy black. Then after 2 hours more, it was solid black and almost as bad. I don't remember seeing oil turn black so quickly. First oil was what came in it. 2nd oil was 5w-30 synth. So, what turns an oil black so quickly? I do run the engine full speed as recommended.
 
I don't remember seeing oil turn black so quickly. First oil was what came in it. 2nd oil was 5w-30 synth. So, what turns an oil black so quickly? I do run the engine full speed as recommended.

My guess is: Your first change the crank case is full of oil and assembly lube and your rings have not seated yet so there is some blow by the rings. Second change the rings are probably still not fully seated. I wouldn't worry about it and just make sure you change the oil at the spec intervals and it'll be fine.
 
re: TSC assembly, the lazy teen goofoff that assembled ours didn't bother to tighten the wheel bearings. By the time I got it home, the bearings were gone. They wanted me to bring it back to fix it, I told them there was no way I was towing it bac in that condition. Manager came out and replaced the bearing and told me that they had a lot of problems with that kid's attitude and he was no longer employed there.

That was six years ago and the splitter has been doing just fine ever since (it did need a new fuel line and carb repair last year).

One thing the repair shop did was to add a little in-line fuel filter. They suggested that it's a good idea (and cheap). Makes sense.

Ken
 
I posted earlier I ran 30 weight for a while and have ran 10-30 synthetic mobile 1 for approx 2-3 years, it is starting to turn but still has a golden color. This is even after I realized the morons did not tighten the head down. It used to puff grey when started up from day one. I just had a huge elm log and put it in the wrong way in the splitter, bottomed it out a few times in the splitter and the puffing is gone...the rings are seated %-P I will use this oil this summer and change it out in fall again. This time it will probably be 5 years before its changed as long as the stuff is not turned too bad. I guess it can get accidic and rot the seals if it is in too long? Hope this helps.
 
I got a Huskee 22 ton as well. I have split about 5 cords so far and agree there isn't much it won't split. I had one log that needed a second try.

I'll also confirm to change the oil before the 5 hours they state! I waited the five hours and mine came out silvery metallic.!! I didn't have much hope, but put in 10W-30 synthetic and its been fine since. I get a small puff on start up but no other significant burn.

My only problem otherwise is finding more wood to split! Winter is coming.....

JD in Balmy PA
 
Mine is leaking hydro fluid slowly near the hydro filter. Need to do some work on it when I have the time. It was brand new in November 2007, so has only split about 8 Cord. Think I just need to tighten things up a bit.
 
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