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Two stove placement questions

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by KP Matt, Jul 17, 2006.

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  1. KP Matt

    KP Matt New Member

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    Placement of stove close to windows
    Every now and then I read that woodstoves should not be placed in front of windows, though I have never heard the explanation. The obvious reason is that glass is an excellent conductors and even the best windows aren't great insulators (compared to wall), and that placing a stove near a window (especially where heat can radiate directly) will result in significant amounts of heat going right out the window, as it were (without requiring that the windows be open). Is it as simple as that, or are there other dynamics at work? My current installation is fairly close to a few big (single pane!) windows, and I can't see doing anything the placement issue for the next 20 years or so, or until I put another roof on; I'm certainly not going to trade away my straight-shot stovepipe/chimney configuration and gobble up half of the living room just to get away from the windows. But understanding the concern might help me find some other ways to mitigate the problem.

    Stove hotter on one side than the other
    Does anyone now which side is hotter on a new Jotul 602? Seems to me that a dealer mentioned that one side was hotter, but I can't remember which. Why is this? Is it true of other/all stoves?

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  2. elkimmeg

    elkimmeg Guest

    HOTTEST SIDE IS THE SIDE WITH THE MOST GLOWING COALS
  3. MountainStoveGuy

    MountainStoveGuy Minister of Fire

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    on a 602, the sides, top and front are hot, more hot on the sides then a typical stove. There is no reason you cant be close to windows, treat them like a cimbustable for clearance purposes, other then that its all astectics.
  4. Shane

    Shane Minister of Fire

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    Like MSG said treat them like a combustible. I will share one tale of putting a stove too close to a window. A dealer installed one infront of a window stoked it up and the window cracked due to the temp fluctuation from outside to inside.
  5. precaud

    precaud Minister of Fire

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    Well, this dealer was very observant, indeed... the fact is, the F602 burns hotter on the left side, due to the (poor, IMO) design of the air inlet. Unless it's wide open (which you'll almost never have it), the majority of the air is directed to the left side of the stove, and that's why it burns noticeably hotter on that side. This can be partly corrected with a dremel tool and grinding attachment... I've modified mine and it helps make the fire burn more symmetrical in the box.

    No, this is NOT true of all stoves, it's a side-effect of the F602 geometry.

    (Lest you get the wrong impression, I like the F602 alot...)
  6. Corie

    Corie Minister of Fire

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    Seems more and more compromised designs are surfacing in relation to the Jotul lineup.
  7. precaud

    precaud Minister of Fire

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    I'd say the lineup is weak on the bottom (F602, F100, F118), but pretty strong from the 3CB up. (Our local dealer would put the 3CB on that list, but national sales figures suggest otherwise...)

    It's a sad statement, really... because it is much easier to design a clean-burning small stove than a large one.
  8. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Too bad. I really liked our older 602 and thought it heated relatively evenly if all was in good shape. And it burned exceptionaly clean, based on our chimney being almost free of creosote for a decade of burning.

    Now I am in the same dilemma as Matt. We bought a new, custom window assembly (dbl hung + picture+ dbl hung) to replace a large plate glass window in the living room. I intentionally undersized the window by a foot from the current massive window (110 in wide) in order to increase clearance from combustibles from the soon to be relocated woodstove that will be corner installed next to the window. The window was brought in yesterday and it is only 4in. undersized! WTF! Well, the manufacturer decided to ignore the RO spec when they joined the 3 units. There is 4" added between each unit, thus the loss of 8". Grrrrr.

    What to do? It will take 10 weeks for a new assembly to be made. Do I move the stove further away or are there any stoves that are particularly well shielded on the sides, yet also great heaters. We had considered upgrading from the 3CB to a larger Jotul, now that we don't have the pellet stove. But this seems like it's not an option now. How are PE stoves for side heat? I really don't want to risk cracking glass. Will the manufacturer's spec for combustible surfaces work for distance from glass? Any suggestions?
  9. MountainStoveGuy

    MountainStoveGuy Minister of Fire

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    Begreen, i think most steel stoves and euro stoves are designed convection heaters. they literaly have a jacket like a heat shield around the backs and sides. I would think these would have lower side clearances, im not at work so i cant look. If you like the look of RAIS or SCAN, these might do the trick.

    As far as the 602 is concerned, my customers love them. I am trying to remember the last complaint i have had. They do have high side clearances, but most of the surface area is on the sides so that makes sense. I learned something new about one side being hotter then the other. If i remember right the f118 has a optional side heat shield, i dont remember if the 602 does.
  10. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Thanks for the suggestion MSG. The better half-really prefers a more traditional look. She says she might go for a PE or Napolean, but prefers the look of a Jotul, VC, Oakwood, etc. stove. Windows are in today so I can take precise measurements. There is the option of bringing the hearth and stove further away from the windows and into the room, so I'm going to create some cardboard templates of some stoves and play with them over the weekend.
  11. elkimmeg

    elkimmeg Guest

    BE green glass does not really absorb heat. The manufacture of the window sized the fact,that they were to be mulled together. Instead he included space between the units for a stud pocket. Structually the stud pocket, with the stud installed ,,is a superior install application. but does nothing for space saving and possibly re framing the window and replacing the header. Thats amounts to a lot of extra work. On the stove front choice you will be buying clearance rather than manufacture models. Traditional design per prefference of the other half
  12. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    No stud pocket in this install. The factory combined the 3 window units into one. They were given rough opening and made the window set 8 in. too big. Downside is that the window is closer to the stove and the divided lites are more square. Too bad they are really nice other than that. The company is willing to correct the issue, but it will take weeks. Mulling it over now. Will probably wait to decide until I have time to make stove measurements and weigh my options this weekend.
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