Undecided on new Saw

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arcane

New Member
Jan 9, 2009
10
nh
I have a 1993 Husky aka HuskyPoulan 41 (41cc 16") at the moment. It feels like it getting tired and will need some works soon.
My local dealer is Stihl - There are others but these guys are always open 7-7 and only 2 miles away.
They have a 10% off Stihl sale next week. I only plan to cut 1-3 coords per year may be up to 18" but 12-14 typical dia but want a light weight saw. I hurt my rotator cuff a few years ago.
I've looked at the following sub $400 saws
MS250 ( 45cc) 299 less 10%
MS270 50CC (wood boss) 399 less 10%
MS290 55CC ( farm boss) 359 less 10%

I like the price of the farm boss but not the weight.
I like the weight of the 270 but not the price
Wish stihl had a 270 wiegth saw w/.o the extra vibe stuff.
Is the MS250 big enough?

There is always the husky stuff at the box store but I am not sure they are of the same quality.
I am of the opinion that a 41CC pre EPA saw that run 12000 rpm is similar to a post EPA 9000 rpm saw thats 45-50CC
I may be wrong. I dont want to buy junk and replace it.
I've thrown away enough brand new looking saw over the years that last 1 or 2 seasons
Any suggestions.
I dont know any other dealers near by that have good hours, they all have like 8-12 saturdays which is a pain in the A
I can't get to them during the week 8-5


Dave
 
Out of your list, I think you would be quite happy with the 270 running an 18" bar for your needs. $50 isn't a whole lot amortized over the life of a saw. If you can handle the weight difference between the 270 and 250, get the 270.
 
my vote 290
 
I just bought the Stihl 250 C-BE with the easy starting mechanism. I love it. I've cut about 1 1/2 cords in the past month, the saw just slips through wood --- most of the time I only have the trigger pulled 1/2 way to get the job done and I've gone through quite a few 24" - 28" logs with the 16 " bar. My shoulders hurt much more lifting and carrying the rounds, than the saw would ever cause. Never anything even resembling a kickback. I've had to cut up some Y's and burls that I couldn't split and had no trouble. Just sharpened the chain for the first time and looking forward to going out to the woodpile and cutting more tomorrow. Starting the saw is easy with my own rotator cuff problems -- I pull the cord slowly and gently 2-3 times and it starts. Only problem I've had have been my own; I flooded it a couple times on "re-starts" , but I've learned with using it how to avoid that.

I don't know the longevity of different saws and their components, but I can't imagine at 1-3 cords per year needing anything more.
 
My buddy has an east start 250. Not enough saw if it's your only saw, IMO. If you're really weight sensitive save a few dimes and spring for a 260.
 
Bigg_Redd said:
My buddy has an east start 250. Not enough saw if it's your only saw, IMO. If you're really weight sensitive save a few dimes and spring for a 260.

The 260 Pro is nice and light with good power. But that power comes with a cost.
 
I only plan to cut 1-3 coords per year may be up to 18” but 12-14 typical dia

my smaller saw is a 023 stihl. i would think this is plenty of saw for the aamount of wood you are looking to cut . mine does a great job on smaller stuff . unless you are looking to cut it all in one day . then a larger saw might be needed . i have a friend . who bought the 170 stihl . she loves it , and so do i . it will suprise you . and she also burns at least 3 cords a year . she has owned and used this lil saw for 3 years now .. hoot
 
stockdoct said:
most of the time I only have the trigger pulled 1/2 way to get the job done

Unless you're talking about cutting through 2" branches, I'd suggest you pull the trigger all the way in. Chainsaws are designed to run at idle or full throttle. Sometimes the carburation isn't so good in the in between range.
 
KarlP said:
stockdoct said:
most of the time I only have the trigger pulled 1/2 way to get the job done

Unless you're talking about cutting through 2" branches, I'd suggest you pull the trigger all the way in. Chainsaws are designed to run at idle or full throttle. Sometimes the carburation isn't so good in the in between range.
Agreed. Less than WOT can also wear on the clutch. The clutch relies on centrifugal force to combat slipping.

If the saw revs too high, it's carb maladjustment. It should actually pick up revs a bit and smooth out under load.
 
arcane said:
I only plan to cut 1-3 coords per year may be up to 18" but 12-14 typical dia but want a light weight saw. I hurt my rotator cuff a few years ago.

I think you will be happy with an MS 250C-BE. It will have no problem cutting the size and amount of wood you are cutting. I only wish I had a bigger saw when I'm cutting larger stuff(18"+). The other advantage of the MS 250 C-BE over the other two that you mentioned is that it has the "easy2start system" which will be much easier on your shoulder.
 
Justin M said:
arcane said:
I only plan to cut 1-3 coords per year may be up to 18" but 12-14 typical dia but want a light weight saw. I hurt my rotator cuff a few years ago.

I think you will be happy with an MS 250C-BE. It will have no problem cutting the size and amount of wood you are cutting. I only wish I had a bigger saw when I'm cutting larger stuff(18"+). The other advantage of the MS 250 C-BE over the other two that you mentioned is that it has the "easy2start system" which will be much easier on your shoulder.
that easy to start system is just one more thing you can break if your healthy dont get the easy to start system.
 
LLigetfa said:
KarlP said:
stockdoct said:
most of the time I only have the trigger pulled 1/2 way to get the job done

Unless you're talking about cutting through 2" branches, I'd suggest you pull the trigger all the way in. Chainsaws are designed to run at idle or full throttle. Sometimes the carburation isn't so good in the in between range.
Agreed. Less than WOT can also wear on the clutch. The clutch relies on centrifugal force to combat slipping.

If the saw revs too high, it's carb maladjustment. It should actually pick up revs a bit and smooth out under load.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Thanks guys, I will
 
By the way, this is why I was doing the "half-trigger" thing. In the Stihl 250 Instruction manual, it states:

"During Break In Period:
A factory new machine should not be run at high revs for the first three tank fillings. This avoids unnecessary high loads during the break-in period. As all moving parts have to bed in during the break in period, the frictional resistances in the engine are greater during this period. The engine develops the maximum power after about 5 to 15 tank fillings."
 
I think that means don't run the saw at full throttle out of the wood. When cutting, hold the trigger all the way down........ to quote others, "run it like you stole it"
 
smokinj said:
that easy to start system is just one more thing you can break if your healthy dont get the easy to start system.

I dunno about that. I keep hearing how long these Stihl's last. :)

My grandmother got a new rear engine Snapper mower in 1987 when she was 67 years old and didn't want to mess with electric start. At 88 years old it was hurting her shoulder to pull start it and she was having balance issues pulling with both hands. I got her a used 1985 model with electric start...
 
KarlP said:
smokinj said:
that easy to start system is just one more thing you can break if your healthy dont get the easy to start system.

I dunno about that. I keep hearing how long these Stihl's last. :)

My grandmother got a new rear engine Snapper mower in 1987 when she was 67 years old and didn't want to mess with electric start. At 88 years old it was hurting her shoulder to pull start it and she was having balance issues pulling with both hands. I got her a used 1985 model with electric start...
yes your right about the saw but the dealership i buy my saws at said the eazy start system is a nightmear for them. I bought a ms 180 in nov. of 2008 and strongly recmended not to get the easy start.Not saying it doesnt work just alot more parts to go wrong
 
Ive got a Stilhl 026 ( 16" bar) that I've used for 4-5 cords/year for the last 10 years. I cut log lengths and standing hard woods of all shapes and sizes and haven't had a problem.

I'm not sure what today's model number is for this model but it's been a great saw.

If I ever have to replace, I might consider a little more power and an 18inch bar but I would also be concerned about the extra weight and the extra lenght in the close quarters of the woods.

When I think I need more power I sharpen the chain.
 
gerry100 said:
Ive got a Stilhl 026 ( 16" bar) that I've used for 4-5 cords/year for the last 10 years. I cut log lengths and standing hard woods of all shapes and sizes and haven't had a problem.

I'm not sure what today's model number is for this model but it's been a great saw.

If I ever have to replace, I might consider a little more power and an 18inch bar but I would also be concerned about the extra weight and the extra lenght in the close quarters of the woods.

When I think I need more power I sharpen the chain.
the o26 is a pro saw the 260 is the replacement should last you a life time
 
I have an 029 with a 20" bar that we bought in '96. It has served me very well and I haven't found that there is any lack of power. It is kinda heavy though. After more an hour or so, the weight starts to suck. I just bought a used MS180 for the little stuff. That said, knowing what I know now, I would spend the $50 more for the MS270.

Update.
I just looked at the Stihl website and compared the 270 and the 290. The 290 is only 1.3 lbs. heavier, but has more power, more ccs, and bigger fuell and oil tanks. I'm gonna say save the $50 and get the MS290.
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS290.html
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS270.html
 
Leaning toward Husky 450 505h aniversity saw w/ 18" bar
$360 and comes with a case at the other local dealer.
Much lighter than the 290- less expensive than the 270 - comes with case
50CC.
Dealer says they will set it up so it does not run as lean and tweak the oiler

Dave
 
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