Uneven cutting; but not what you think

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Skier76

Minister of Fire
Apr 14, 2009
1,468
CT and SoVT
I've had the version where one side of the chain is sharper than the other and the saw will cut left/right when making straight cuts...that's not the problem I'm having.

I have an MS250, 16" bar and I'm running a Stihl yellow chain. A while back, I had a guy (who unlike me, knows what he's doing..HA!) hand-file the chain and he did an amazing job. The saw bascially cut like new. I've done a few re-filings and I just can't get it right...close, but not right. My chips are mostly big, but there's some dust mixed in as well. I don't think I was going at a 30 degree angle...probably a 15 or 20. I put the file guide back on and refiled yesterday.

Now here's the odd part: If I do a regular cut into wood (base of the bar hitting the wood first), I have to do some pushing when going through harder woods; the saw just won't pull. But if I'm doing and under cut with the top of the bar, it'll zip right through. I tried this a few times yesterday; cutting rounds and cutting down some stumps. The cuts using the top of the bar where a lot different. Any ideas?
 
The bottom edge of the bar needs dressing to get the rails level. For now just flip the bar.
 
Did you check the hieght of the rakers? i'd try taking rakers all down a couple strokes.
 
I forgot to mention that; I did check the rakers with a guide. Just about all of them were at the correct height. I wasn't able to remove any material from them.
 
For sure flip that bar from time to time so it wears evenly. You may have to grind that bar to get it even.
 
Sounds like it's time to flip the bar! I'll give that a shot next time I cut. I'm pretty good with doing that, but lately, I've left it as is.
 
Flipping the bar not going to make the bottom side cut better. This is an odd deal for sure need to see the wood your cutting and whats going on there?
 
+1: flip the bar
& also double check the rakers. Try knocking them down just a skosh below your raker guide.
A sharp chain should bite with either cut.
If you have to force the saw to cut by pushing down, that usually causes a crooked (bowed) cut.
 
I might be able to agree with flipping the bar. Each time I remove a bar from the saw I check the edge that was the bottom. I check by carefully running my finger nail across the edge, and sometimes my thumb as if you were checking a pocket knife. If I detect a lip or edge I flat file the side of the bar. Most times I do find an edge to be filed. I'm not bragging but I don't let my saws get that bad usually.
 
Remind me not to cut with any of you guys...LOL Flipping it doesnt make one side better cutting than the other wear or no wear. May not cut in a stright line, but Not going to make the top or bottom better cutting.
 
As I said "might". If the bur was big enough it would make the bar hang in the kerf or cut. Then you got more problems than just the bad bar. I think the OP is just seeing a difference in up cutting vs. standard. :smirk:
 
Take the bar to a saw shop to have it "dressed" properly. Stihl makes a tool to help you DIY. Grinding it freehand might get it darn close but never perfect.
 
RNLA said:
As I said "might". If the bur was big enough it would make the bar hang in the kerf or cut. Then you got more problems than just the bad bar. I think the OP is just seeing a difference in up cutting vs. standard. :smirk:

He is looking at the bottom of the gullets getting to small. Maybe a under size file or just not getting it out of there good, but quite silly to think this would be a bar issue. Hes cutting with the top of the tooth AND GULLET CLOSING UP and or not clearing chips when using the bottom of the bar.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I'm going to: Flip the bar and refile the chain with the file guide. Hopefully, that will take care of the issue.
 
Skier76 said:
Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I'm going to: Flip the bar and refile the chain with the file guide. Hopefully, that will take care of the issue.
While you are at it, this would be a good time to make certain that all of your cutters are nearly the same length. If not, match them to the shortest one, then check your depth gauges (rakers) and file accordingly. (Sorry if you already know/do this.)

Cheers
 
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