United states pellet stove

[womaus]

On getting it inspected: I'd contact the Building and Code Department in your town to see what the local laws are. As for your insurance company I'm betting that they are expecting it to be inspected and approved, as are all modifications to an existing structure. If you do get it inspected and approved be sure to get a copy of the sign off to the insurance company. Best to cover your butt in the event of any type of unforeseen accidental damage (from anything, not just the stove), insurance companies like to find ways out of paying.

From the Harman installation manual, regarding the clearance to opening windows and doors. This is the first I've seen of the 9" allowable distance if there is an OAK in play. Makes sense though....

Your install, without an OAK, may be questioned.

Be sure to have an abundance of carbon monoxide and smoke detectors installed also.

1. The clearance to a window or door that may be opened must be a minimum of 48" to the side, 48" below the window/door, 12" above the window/door. (with outside air installed, 9” to side and below)
   
   

 

[womaus]

Then I would aslo have to patch my hole and lower the hole in order to go straight from the stove to the outside then 90 clean out then up the rest of the way to to the cap

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Possibly not....

There are adjustable vent pipes available, you may be able to utilize one for the distance between the stove to the thimble.

pipe out from stove --> 90º connector installed at a 45º angle --> adjustable straight run --> 90º connector at a 45º angle --> horizontal run through the wall --> then either terminate or another vertical run.

I would consider also going with at least a 2' vertical on the exterior if possible, to be able to get a natural draft in place in the event of a power outage.

 

[Lake Girl]

USSC does not recognize diminished clearance beside windows/doors with an OAK. Will have to go for 12" above the window with 2' clearance to eaves.

 

[jcwilliams]

I'm not running an oak... Do I need that also?! I may have to sell this stove I feel like I'm stuck lol

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[Lake Girl]

All stoves have the same rough clearance dimensions so you'll have to figure out how to make it work Dry fit or RTV on the current vent set-up? Some brands have tested their stoves with an OAK and allowed for reduced clearances beside windows/doors. With an OAK on my Ecoteck/Ravelli, clearance reduces to 18". USSC has not bothered to figure it out so the larger clearance requirement stands.

How tall are the windows?

PS: Take the pipes apart now while RTV is still softer... The longer you wait, the harder to get apart!

 

[adayrider]

I don't see why you can't take out the clean out T and and go at an angle up and out. You might have to move your stove around a little though but still be close to where it is.

 

[Lake Girl]

I don't see why you can't take out the clean out T and and go at an angle up and out. You might have to move your stove around a little though but still be close to where it is.

That was what womaus was getting at...

 

[adayrider]

That was what womaus was getting at...

Well I think I said it better. haha

 

[jcwilliams]

I don't see why you can't take out the clean out T and and go at an angle up and out. You might have to move your stove around a little though but still be close to where it is.

I have the stove in the corner at the bottom of the stairs. I don't see with where I made my hole with my current setup that I can take the t out and move it outside the angles are too far off I think...
I think I'd have to use a flex pipe which I'm not sure can be used can it??

Btw thanks for all the feedback everyone I appreciate it

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[jcwilliams]

I did fire it up. Not sure if it was a good idea or not but it did smoke a lil at start up but other than that no smoke. I hit the off button and as the flame was going out I then had smoke on the outside cap til it was done....
I tried to mock a power outage with the surge protector power strip and no smoke on the inside

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[womaus]

Well I think I said it better. haha

I think you did too. But I may be lying.

 

[womaus]

...but it did smoke a lil at start up but other than that no smoke.

Did you get smoke at the vent pipe connections? Or smoke at the access doors?

Be sure it's all sealed up.

And as far as I know flex pipe is not code with interior use, unless it is running up the chimney.

 

[jcwilliams]

Did you get smoke at the vent pipe connections? Or smoke at the access doors?

Be sure it's all sealed up.

I got a lil smoke from the room blower. I am now getting smoke from the joints on the inside since it's simmering down and all smoke now. Will be getting that tape for sure.

I put a new door seal and new glass seal on before installing in the house so I think I'm ok there.

So can flexible pipe work or no? That's about the only way I see making it work with the tee being moved to the outside so I can run vertical from it.

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[adayrider]

No smoke on the inside, but can you smell it? If you can't smell it or see smoke inside. Then I would run it, but I'm sure everyone else will disagree. My wife calls me an idiot everyday. I would definitely run it as is after you seal all joints before I run flex pipe. Flex pipe will get hot and anything that touches it will burn.

 

[womaus]

I got a lil smoke from the room blower. I am now getting smoke from the joints on the inside since it's simmering down and all smoke now. Will be getting that tape for sure.

So can flexible pipe work or no? That's about the only way I see making it work with the tee being moved to the outside so I can run vertical from it.

Smoke from the joints on the inside? Open your windows and get the house aired out. If you've got smoke you've got a problem.

One of the best ways to test for smoke visually is with a totally dark room...get the stove fired up and shine a flashlight at the connections. Think of it as using soapy water on a gas connection, watching for bubbles. The flashlight beam will show the smoke particulates in the air.

Or, if this is first burn, you may just be getting off gassing from the packaging and oils on the vent kit. But whatever it is make sure you know it's not the stove venting into the interior of the house.

Flexible pipe = NO. Not in the interior of the hose. Only code if used in the interior of a masonry chimney (at least here in MA, not sure about Ohio).

 

[jcwilliams]

Smoke from the joints on the inside? Open your windows and get the house aired out. If you've got smoke you've got a problem.

One of the best ways to test for smoke visually is with a totally dark room...get the stove fired up and shine a flashlight at the connections. Think of it as using soapy water on a gas connection, watching for bubbles. The flashlight beam will show the smoke particulates in the air.

Or, if this is first burn, you may just be getting off gassing from the packaging and oils on the vent kit. But whatever it is make sure you know it's not the stove venting into the interior of the house.

Flexible pipe = NO. Not in the interior of the hose. Only code if used in the interior of a masonry chimney (at least here in MA, not sure about Ohio).

Yes after work tomorrow I plan to go see what they have for piping again and grab some tape. It was for sure smoke from the joints.

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[womaus]

Yes after work tomorrow I plan to go see what they have for piping again and grab some tape. It was for sure smoke from the joints.

If you're getting smoke from the joints even after using sealant (but not tape) I'd take a hard look at the way the pipes are going together. The tape is good extra insurance on the joints, but I'd still make sure the joints are preventing 99.9% of the exhaust from leaking.

The tape you'll be looking for looks like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Super-Glue-1-in-x-10-ft-Black-E-Z-Fuse-Silicone-Tape-15408-6/204237144

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-T...sing-Silicone-Tape-in-Clear-1210364/203534911

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-...r-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Wrap-1958735/205764081

Could be in paint, plumbing, electrical. Maybe hardware too.

 

[jcwilliams]

I just wish I would have know all the stuff you guys are telling me before I mad my hole. To fix my interior piping I'm afraid I'd have no choice but to patch the hole I made and make another one...

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[womaus]

I just wish I would have know all the stuff you guys are telling me before I mad my hole. To fix my interior piping I'm afraid I'd have no choice but to patch the hole I made and make another one...

When I installed my own it sat in the living room for 3 weeks while I agonized over how to do it correctly. My wife, I found out later, had a bet going that it would not get installed before the real cold weather hit, and would have to wait for spring.

I spent most of that time milking the knowledge of the people on this forum, got lots of good info from them. The ease of the installation was directly attributable to all of the responders to my inquiries. I had all of the needed parts, tape, sealants, tools on hand.

Best part was finding out my wife lost the bet.

You might want to think about repairing the hole in the wall, and if leaving the stove in that position start with a 45º off of the stove, go directly out the wall horizontally, then the Tee outside and 4' - 5' vertical stack. That will get quite a bit of the 90º bends and extra length out of the picture. It will reduce the number of joints on the interior (no need to worry about the joints on the exterior of the house). Get it away from the windows too.

And think about getting an OAK in place, it makes little sense to use heated interior air to fuel the fire, pushing it out of the exhaust vent. I think it was on this forum that someone used the analogy "that's like sitting on the toilet while you're drinking a case of beer. It's just lazy....".

 

[rich2500]

It looks like if you remove the first 90 coming off the stove and place your clean out t in it's place you may be able to angle it slightly towards the thimble and go up and out.of course it all hinges on if you can find all the right size pipes and move the stove enough to work.

 

[adayrider]

View attachment 184963 It looks like if you remove the first 90 coming off the stove and place your clean out t in it's place you may be able to angle it slightly towards the thimble and go up and out.of course it all hinges on if you can find all the right size pipes and move the stove enough to work.

That's what we tried to say. He might have to rotate the stove to the right some. But we are not there, so maybe not as easy as it looks in the pics.

 

[jcwilliams]

Yea I'll be trying that I'm going to try to take the pipes apart and see what it looks like with what you guys are saying and I will post back

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[railfanron]

If it was me I would take the tee and the vertical straight and 90 and put it directly on the stove adapter fitting then move the stove to the left until it lines up with the thimble (looks like 3 or 4 inches) then get the right length straight to go through the wall in one piece (looks like 36 inches). Then if it's out far enough put the cap on it. When done and tested paint it all black.
Ron

 

[womaus]

If it was me I would take the tee and the vertical straight and 90 and put it directly on the stove adapter fitting then move the stove to the left until it lines up with the thimble (looks like 3 or 4 inches) then get the right length straight to go through the wall in one piece (looks like 36 inches). Then if it's out far enough put the cap on it. When done and tested paint it all black.
Ron

He would still need to address the distance from the vent to the window on the exterior of the house, to guard against negative air pressure and pulling the exhaust back into the house.

Quite the conundrum he has on his hands.

 

[Mt Bob]

2 45's,possibly 1 section of adjustable pipe,run outside pipe 1 foot above window height.May have to move stove out a few inches to use 45's.