Unsplit logs

[Fiziksgeek]

This will be my first burning season. I bought some log length and will have ~5 cords c/s/s by the end of summer. I was planing on using this for the 2013-14 seasons and beyond.

I need to find wood for the up comming season. I was at the neighbors house yesterday, and he offerd me several cords of wood that was from some work they had done o the yard last June. They took down ~15 trees (ash, maple, etc) and did some regrading to solve water issues. It cut, but not split, and stacked next to his driveway, double rows, in full sun. I don't have a moisture meter, and after this first season, I shouldn't need one.

As everyone knows, guys who sell fire wood c/s in early spring, pile it in mounds, and consider it seasoned by fall.

So, what so you think would be better. Wood that was cut and split early in the year, or wood that was cut a year ago and split now (august)?

Either way, I figure I will be burning less than optimal wood this year, but will hopefully be prepared for subsequent years.

 

[Sprinter]

This will be my first burning season. I bought some log length and will have ~5 cords c/s/s by the end of summer. I was planing on using this for the 2013-14 seasons and beyond.

I need to find wood for the up comming season. I was at the neighbors house yesterday, and he offerd me several cords of wood that was from some work they had done o the yard last June. They took down ~15 trees (ash, maple, etc) and did some regrading to solve water issues. It cut, but not split, and stacked next to his driveway, double rows, in full sun. I don't have a moisture meter, and after this first season, I shouldn't need one.

As everyone knows, guys who sell fire wood c/s in early spring, pile it in mounds, and consider it seasoned by fall.

So, what so you think would be better. Wood that was cut and split early in the year, or wood that was cut a year ago and split now (august)?

Either way, I figure I will be burning less than optimal wood this year, but will hopefully be prepared for subsequent years.

What I would do is go ahead and cut & split it, then use a moisture meter to determine which is better and use whichever is driest when the time comes. Moisture meters are less than $20 and you should get one if you don't already have one. Be sure you use the meter on a freshly cut face. This is the meter I got and it seems good. There are other similar ones. http://www.amazon.com/Handheld-Digital-Moisture-Content-Display/dp/B004KWAQAI/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1344440336&sr=1-7&keywords=moisture meter

You're doing great. Wish I had neighbors like yours!

 

[blujacket]

That Ash cut last year is going to be your best bet for this year. Get it split asap.

 

[Fiziksgeek]

What I would do is go ahead and cut & split it, then use a moisture meter to determine which is better and use whichever is driest when the time comes.

Well, I don't want to buy wood if I don't have to. I know no one can give me an exact answer, just looking at the odds.

I am aware of the downsides of burning "wet" wood. Loss of BTUs, more creosote, etc. But at the end of the day, I am going to burn the wood I have regardless of MC. Iam assuming that I wont be able to find good dry (<20%mc) wood for this year, unless I buy kiln dried, and that isn't going to happen. I'd rather burn oil! So anyone think I would be as good (or better off) taking the wood from the neighbor and splitting it vs. buying from soemone else locally?

 

[Big Chris]

You should be fine, especially with the ash. Get it cut and split asap. I see no need why u would have to buy woo be advised, most wood sellers sell less seasoned wood than what u have. I know this isn't the popular opinion here, but that wood can dry quick in the next 3 months. I personally believe sept. Is the best month to dry wood, it's usually breezy and much less humid. Pick up the $20 mm. Most guys here burn medium seasoned ash there first year, yeah u will have to mess with the stoves air flow from time to time, but u will b fine this winter.

 

[Sprinter]

Well, I don't want to buy wood if I don't have to. I know no one can give me an exact answer, just looking at the odds.

I am aware of the downsides of burning "wet" wood. Loss of BTUs, more creosote, etc. But at the end of the day, I am going to burn the wood I have regardless of MC. Iam assuming that I wont be able to find good dry (<20%mc) wood for this year, unless I buy kiln dried, and that isn't going to happen. I'd rather burn oil! So anyone think I would be as good (or better off) taking the wood from the neighbor and splitting it vs. buying from soemone else locally?

I'm just suggesting that you go ahead and take your neighbor's wood regardless. You can use it in later years if you need to. The meter is the only way to know the mc for sure and then you can just burn whatever pieces are driest. Even buying "seasoned" wood locally is a crap shoot unless you know the supplier's reputation. I just got some "seasoned" wood (fir) and it measured 32% inside even though it looked gray and cracked on the outside. I would think that the rounds cut last year would be your best bet, though. It sounds like you've already decided not to buy anyway...

 

[Fiziksgeek]

I guess I am just skeptical of buying wood that is supposidly seasoned, and get stuck with nearly green wood.

And also looking for a gut check that the neighbors wood is probably as good as what I could likely buy....unless I were to find a good honest place to buy..which somehow I doubt!

 

[Sprinter]

I guess I am just skeptical of buying wood that is supposidly seasoned, and get stuck with nearly green wood.

And also looking for a gut check that the neighbors wood is probably as good as what I could likely buy....unless I were to find a good honest place to buy..which somehow I doubt!

A bit of a skeptic are we? Me too. I'm just hoping half of the 7 cords I have laid in will season up well enough for this year. This my first season burning also (for many years) and I just bought assuming it would not be well seasoned, although a couple of loads were supposed to be but weren't. I'm keeping an eye on it with my meter to get an idea of which loads I will burn first although it's a little early yet to know for sure. I hope Big Chris is right about September. I'll need a good month.

BTW, if you do have to buy, just tell the guy that you will have to split a piece open and measure the mc with your meter. That and a tape measure should keep them honest. They should be used to skeptics like us by now

 

[bogydave]

Take the wood & get it split & stacked ASAP.
Might be the best wood you'll have to burn & I bet better than most folks (who are not members here )

Check/clean the chimney monthly.

Wet wood burns, it just takes more, you burn on a higher setting & you have to inspect the chimney often.
Lots of folks still cut in the fall & burn it all winter. (I did it for years, not knowing any better)
This site & Experiencing the difference, convinced me to season all wood 2 years, when possible.

But:
You burn what you got.

 

[Realstone]

That Ash cut last year is going to be your best bet for this year. Get it split asap.

Take Bluejackets advice, split the ash now & split it thin for quicker drying. Spread it out and expose it to the sun & wind and it may even be good for winter.

 

[woodchip]

Take Bluejackets advice, split the ash now & split it thin for quicker drying. Spread it out and expose it to the sun & wind and it may even be good for winter.

I agree - get splitting asap, no time to lose.........

 

[ScotO]

split it up a little smaller too (3" to 5" splits), it will season a little faster. Like Bogeydave said, you'll have to check that chimney more frequently because you WILL be putting moisture into it from the damper wood. But you should be fine. I use 2 to 3 years as a guideline, that is to say I cut my wood 2 to 3 years AHEAD of when I plan on using it. And that's cut, split, and stacked. Always, if you can, split the wood right after you cut it. It seems to season off a little faster that way IMHO.

 

[Grisu]

Another option for dry wood are pallets. They are a pain to process and the nails in the ash can get annoying but they are great for getting the stove up to temp and for mixing in with your not so dry wood. Most stores are just too happy to get rid of them. Besides that, I second the following: split it ASAP, stack it exposed to sun and wind in single rows, make small splits, and clean the chimney often. Plus, if the wood of your neighbor is free (or cheap) take it. You can never have too much wood!

 

[Backwoods Savage]

This will be my first burning season. I bought some log length and will have ~5 cords c/s/s by the end of summer. I was planing on using this for the 2013-14 seasons and beyond.

I need to find wood for the up comming season. I was at the neighbors house yesterday, and he offerd me several cords of wood that was from some work they had done o the yard last June. They took down ~15 trees (ash, maple, etc) and did some regrading to solve water issues. It cut, but not split, and stacked next to his driveway, double rows, in full sun. I don't have a moisture meter, and after this first season, I shouldn't need one.

As everyone knows, guys who sell fire wood c/s in early spring, pile it in mounds, and consider it seasoned by fall.

So, what so you think would be better. Wood that was cut and split early in the year, or wood that was cut a year ago and split now (august)?

Either way, I figure I will be burning less than optimal wood this year, but will hopefully be prepared for subsequent years.

Many have seen posts I've made about the one year we burned all white ash that was freshly cut and split. It was an awful winter. Although we did not freeze and we lived through it, we did clean the chimney a lot; probably at least once per month. I'd hate to have to do it again but if need be, we could. Therefore, I suggest you concentrate on the ash.

It has been recommended that you split it small and I fully agree. I will also add that you need to stack it in the windiest spot on your property. Do not stack it high and do not stack it tight. Stack it rather loosely in single rows so that air can get through to do its job. Good luck.

 

[blades]

Hi, Here is an alternative with which you can likely be able to use the ash or or other wood that is almost ready. Purchase ( I know, I know, hate that word also) the compressed wood blocks or logs and mix that with your almost ready wood for this winter ( you will have to experiment find a good ratio). pallets were mentioned, personal experience, they are a royal pain ( course they can be had free, except for your expenses to acquire and labor time, best to cut around the nails and discard) and again mixed with your almost wood to get by this season. If you go the pallet route do not load the stove up with just those, will run way to hot ( overfire). A couple of the compressed blocks and some splits works pretty well.

 

[Ashful]

I'll go back to the story of a coworker who stacked some oak in the hot attic of his barn, and saw it reach equilibrium weight inside of two weeks. Wood can be dried very quickly, in a kiln-like environment.

In the same thread, I had referenced a report showing oak firewood dried from 52 to 20 percent moisture content in 260 hours (11 days) at 140*F. Average daytime temperature in an attic around here in the summer is 150*F to 160*F, so you're in the range.

Now, I wouldn't suggest hauling firewood up to the attic of your house, but if you had a two-story barn, it might be an option. Another option is to try to create the same environment on the ground. Me? I've always wondered if somehow clear plastic could be used to create a vented greenhouse around the firewood, for super-fast summertime drying.

 

[ScotO]

I am contemplating building a solar firewood 'kiln' instead of a wood shed. Making a good portion of the roof 'clear' (like a skylite) and the rest of the roof black, as well as painting the entire thing black on the inside. A couple of thermostatically controlled exhaust fans (set to come on when the temperature hits around 110° and run for a half hour to an hour) throughout the structure, with small, screened vents along the bottom (or even gaps in the flooring. It will be raised around a foot or so off of the ground. This would be an ideal shed to put the wood you plan to burn in that upcoming winter in around springtime, that stuff should be home dry come winter. This would be, of course, after the wood seasoned a year or so in the 'outside' stacks.

 

[Realstone]

I am contemplating building a solar firewood 'kiln' instead of a wood shed. Making a good portion of the roof 'clear' (like a skylite) and the rest of the roof black, as well as painting the entire thing black on the inside. A couple of thermostatically controlled exhaust fans (set to come on when the temperature hits around 110° and run for a half hour to an hour) throughout the structure, with small, screened vents along the bottom (or even gaps in the flooring. It will be raised around a foot or so off of the ground. This would be an ideal shed to put the wood you plan to burn in that upcoming winter in around springtime, that stuff should be home dry come winter. This would be, of course, after the wood seasoned a year or so in the 'outside' stacks.

One of the long time posters here (might even be you) strongly feels that it is wind as much as any other factor that dries out wood. If that is the case, then leave that exhaust fan on 24/7.

 

[ScotO]

One of the long time posters here (might even be you) strongly feels that it is wind as much as any other factor that dries out wood. If that is the case, then leave that exhaust fan on 24/7.

No doubt wind helps with seasoning, but in a kiln-like environment, you would essentially be "baking" the wood. The resulting humidity could be exhausted in intervals. From all I am reading on the 'net about solar kilns, it would drastically cut cut your seasoning time if done correctly. Just something I am pondering........

 

[Sprinter]

No doubt wind helps with seasoning, but in a kiln-like environment, you would essentially be "baking" the wood. The resulting humidity could be exhausted in intervals. From all I am reading on the 'net about solar kilns, it would drastically cut cut your seasoning time if done correctly. Just something I am pondering........

I, too, have been thinking about this. Probably the key would be "if done correctly". I have no doubt that it could be pretty dramatic. But, it would have to be carefully done to avoid either a sauna affect, or no better than just covering it. To do it right, you may want to design something akin to a "hoop house" - type greenhouse that would be exhausted by a fan at one end on a humidistat and a controllable vent on the other. It's the humidity that would be the most important factor to control. And, you wouldn't want to exhaust so quickly as to negate the value of the greenhouse affect, so your fan should be properly sized for CFM. I'm not sure where the balance would be. Then you would want to stack the wood loosely and in such fashion as to allow even, linear air flow through the length of the hoop house. In the end, I'm guessing that the best value in such a scheme would be the fact that you would be focusing the drying air stream right through the stack. You could probably have limited success even with little sun exposure.

I can see a great benefit from doing that, especially for people with limited room.

 

[AJS56]

This will be my first burning season. I bought some log length and will have ~5 cords c/s/s by the end of summer. I was planing on using this for the 2013-14 seasons and beyond.

I need to find wood for the up comming season. I was at the neighbors house yesterday, and he offerd me several cords of wood that was from some work they had done o the yard last June. They took down ~15 trees (ash, maple, etc) and did some regrading to solve water issues. It cut, but not split, and stacked next to his driveway, double rows, in full sun. I don't have a moisture meter, and after this first season, I shouldn't need one.

As everyone knows, guys who sell fire wood c/s in early spring, pile it in mounds, and consider it seasoned by fall.

So, what so you think would be better. Wood that was cut and split early in the year, or wood that was cut a year ago and split now (august)?

Either way, I figure I will be burning less than optimal wood this year, but will hopefully be prepared for subsequent years.

When you say the neighbor's trees were cut last June, are you saying June 2011, or 2012? If 2011 and it's been stacked and in the sun, even w/o being split I would think by splitting it now you should be be in pretty good shape for this year. And if it was cut in 2012 I think it could be decent, though you'd really want to get it s/s ASAP, and as others pointed out, maybe a little smaller splits (under 5") and be sure to stack it in the sun/wind and rather loosely for best drying. I personally don't have any experience with moisture meters, but having one might help you develop a good feel for how long it takes to get this wood dry enough, and also how various woods look/feel like when they are dry enough.

 

[billb3]

So, what do you think would be better. Wood that was cut and split early in the year, or wood that was cut a year ago and split now (august)?

Either way, I figure I will be burning less than optimal wood this year, but will hopefully be prepared for subsequent years.

If both are ash and maple whichever has been split the longest.


If the log length you've been working on is oak, I'd stop that project , pull the ash from the neighbor's stash, get that split, then split the maple.
Hope for a warm or late Winter and see what you've got then.
You also have several months in the meantime to stumble upon even better stuff.
What's the worst that can happen, you have to buy a month or so of compressed blocks or bust up pallets ( I've done pallets and wouldn't wish that on anyone, but it works if you have the time ).



My neighbor moved out and I gave him a hundred bucks for a cord and a half of mixed hardwood he bought three years ago and a dead white oak that he had cut down last Spring.
You might even get lucky and find someone close by sitting on way too much seasoned wood willing to trade.
I only come across seasoned stashes when I don't need it.

 

[Fiziksgeek]

I have a friend, who's family has an estate up in the Addirondacks (~6000 acres, yes he's rich). They have a large barn which is set up as a wood shop, and they mill their own rough lumber and store it in the attick. Leaves the first floor open for equipment and work benches, and gets the lumber nice and dry.

If only I had one......

I'll go back to the story of a coworker who stacked some oak in the hot attic of his barn, and saw it reach equilibrium weight inside of two weeks. Wood can be dried very quickly, in a kiln-like environment.

In the same thread, I had referenced a report showing oak firewood dried from 52 to 20 percent moisture content in 260 hours (11 days) at 140*F. Average daytime temperature in an attic around here in the summer is 150*F to 160*F, so you're in the range.

Now, I wouldn't suggest hauling firewood up to the attic of your house, but if you had a two-story barn, it might be an option. Another option is to try to create the same environment on the ground. Me? I've always wondered if somehow clear plastic could be used to create a vented greenhouse around the firewood, for super-fast summertime drying.

 

[Fiziksgeek]

The neighbors trees were cut down in June 2011, and cut and stacked that summer, he's a teacher, so I know it was all cut by mid august at the latest.

I did order a moisture meter, got it in last night. I have a rack of ash which has been in my basement for 2 years, read 13%, though I did not split it. The wood from the log length which I have already c/c/s was reading 37%, again I did not split a piece, just poked the outside, and we had some showers earlier in the day. If I get a chance today, I'll go split a piece of the neighbors wood and test it and report back.

When you say the neighbor's trees were cut last June, are you saying June 2011, or 2012? If 2011 and it's been stacked and in the sun, even w/o being split I would think by splitting it now you should be be in pretty good shape for this year. And if it was cut in 2012 I think it could be decent, though you'd really want to get it s/s ASAP, and as others pointed out, maybe a little smaller splits (under 5") and be sure to stack it in the sun/wind and rather loosely for best drying. I personally don't have any experience with moisture meters, but having one might help you develop a good feel for how long it takes to get this wood dry enough, and also how various woods look/feel like when they are dry enough.

 

[Fiziksgeek]

Well, shortly after my last post, the plague entered my house, kids (1 and 5), wife, and myself, all spaced apart a couple days. I've seen quite enough of the doctor We are all on the mend now, and further behind.

I did get over and check the neighbors wood with my meter, took 2 medium, 12"-24" rounds right off the top, split them down the middle, and checked the moisture content...32% on the first 31% on the other. Better than the log length I just cut, which was reading 37-38%.

From the previous owner I have:

~1/3 cord of ash which has been stacked and covered since we moved in 2 years ago. Tested a piece from outside, read ~15%.

~1/2-3/4 cord of red cedar, also, been sitting in log length, I used a couple pieces under each of my stacks to keep the wood off the ground. I assume the previous owner had plans for cedar fence posts or something. I Took the biggest one ~10" diameter, bucked it to length, split it and tested, reading ~18%. Great to smell when cutting by the way!

Options:

1.
Burn wet wood, Assuming I split now, the wood from the neighbor might get down to 30% or so. I've read cedar will burn hot and fast, so mixing it in might help mitigate the moisture...??

2.
Buy some eco-bricks, envi-blocks, or similar. I believe the cost will be pushing $300/ton what tax and delivery is added in. I would probably buy 2 ton.


3.
???