Up to ceiling/Out through roof questions

[Darl Bundren]

I am considering installing my stove myself--Woodstock Keystone in the basement, up through the first floor, and out through the roof. I think I have a straight shot, but there may be a surprise (or two) in the attic. I am pricing out Duratech products for now.

I am assuming that I should use double wall up to the support box. Would single wall be sufficient if I have the Woodstock heat shield for the pipe?

I have 12 1/4" between the joists I am wanting to install between and will either go with 9438A 11" Ceiling support box or 9436B Reduced clearance ceiling box. I can figure that out when I find the clearances for these two components.

Here's what I need help on:

What will I need to attach the double wall to the ceiling support? There's a finishing collar they've got, an adapter--what would do the trick? Do I need both?

I'll run Class A galvanized inside the house and switch to stainless after I get up towards the roof. I am not sure what I need to install properly through the roof. I'll need the adjustable flashing, the storm collar, the cap, and maybe the support strap if the chimney height warrants it. But do I need the roof radiation shield 9489 and/or the roof support 9463? The catalog makes me think that the roof support performs the same function as the ceiling support I'd be using down below.

Thanks.

 

[KWillets]

I'm not an expert, but I've been reading the same manual. Actually it looks like I need the adapter myself (I have one batch of chimney parts up at our cabin, and the interior pipe at home, so I haven't test-fitted the whole assembly). I think the adapter is separate from the finishing collar (the interior pipe is "female up" and won't nest with the bottom of the chimney(?)). The ceiling boxes apparently also perform the function of the finishing collar.

AFAIK you should only have one support point, either at the ceiling or the roof. The rest is flashing, shielding, or firestops at the various penetrations. The manual goes through a number of scenarios, and there are a few simplifications such as using a support box all the way from the ceiling to the roof sheathing (if the distance is within 36").

The radiation shield is apparently required at any penetration if you have an enclosed chase below it. Take a look at figure 7 in the manual for a multi-story installation similar to yours.

 

[jebatty]

I don't think this helps much with the install, but I was surprised when I felt the outside of the Class A chimney when the stove was burning. Assuming interior temps of around 700-900, the outside was just warm to the touch.

 

[Darl Bundren]

I'm not an expert, but I've been reading the same manual. Actually it looks like I need the adapter myself (I have one batch of chimney parts up at our cabin, and the interior pipe at home, so I haven't test-fitted the whole assembly). I think the adapter is separate from the finishing collar (the interior pipe is "female up" and won't nest with the bottom of the chimney(?)). The ceiling boxes apparently also perform the function of the finishing collar.

AFAIK you should only have one support point, either at the ceiling or the roof. The rest is flashing, shielding, or firestops at the various penetrations. The manual goes through a number of scenarios, and there are a few simplifications such as using a support box all the way from the ceiling to the roof sheathing (if the distance is within 36").

The radiation shield is apparently required at any penetration if you have an enclosed chase below it. Take a look at figure 7 in the manual for a multi-story installation similar to yours.

Hey, KWillets! I was working from the catalog to try to figure out the components; I surfed around a bit online and found the installation instructions, and that answers my questions. Thanks a ton for helping me out. I am still debating doing the installation myself, but this may have edged me a little closer.

Thanks again.

 

[KWillets]

Glad to hear it. Your mention of the adapter saved me a trip as well.

 

[KWillets]

I double-checked the catalog and manuals for Durablack (the single-wall), and it doesn't appear that an adapter is needed in my case. From the wording I think they mean you need an adapter if you do a "through the ceiling" installation (using the roof support with no ceiling box), and just have the bare pipe bottom to attach to. The 14" slip connector says that it adapts the pipe to the ceiling box or finishing collar. The kit doesn't use the adapter, only the slip connector.

Your main criterion for single-wall is if you have 18" clearance (I do), and the heat loss if you're worried about keeping the stack temp up in the chimney.

 

[begreen]

If you have any unanswered questions, Simpson has a good, toll free support hotline. (800)835-4429

 

[Darl Bundren]

If you have any unanswered questions, Simpson has a good, toll free support hotline. (800)835-4429

If I get much deeper into this, I'm sure I'll have a few more questions. Tomorrow I may crawl up into the attic to see what it looks like up there--

Thanks for the info, BeGreen, and thanks again to you, KWillets.