1. Welcome Hearth.com Guests and Visitors - Please enjoy our forums!
    Hearth.com GOLD Sponsors who help bring the site content to you:
    Hearthstone Soapstone and Cast-Iron stoves( Wood, Gas or Pellet Stoves and Inserts)

upland 207 questions.

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by jeepyj89, Jan 4, 2012.

  1. jeepyj89

    jeepyj89 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2012
    Messages:
    7
    Loc:
    watertown CT
    Hey all this is my very first post here and i have a few questions on my stove.

    1- to keep it going during the day i keep the flue open fully and the side damper about half way is that correct?
    2-at night i dummy down the air damper so its almost closed but yet open enough to keep the ambers heated correct? this should be the same procedure for when i go out to work correct? if you guys have any advise please help i read the owners manual and im just a bit comfused im a HVAC guy and new to the whole wood stove deal..
    thanks all

    Helpful Sponsor Ads!





  2. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Dec 22, 2007
    Messages:
    1,605
    Loc:
    NE PA
    Welcome to the forum;
    Do you have the 2 upper baffles where they belong? Shoved back away from the door? That's a reverse burn stove. You load it fully, and the air coming in goes against the flow of heat trying to get out. (exhaust flow has to move towards door to get out above baffle) When burned to a good bed of coals, reload fully. Mine worked great that way. The Webmaster here purchased the remaining parts and owned the company for a while. So you're at the right place.
    Damper operation will depend on how well the chimney drafts. With a metal 6 inch insulated chimney, I ran mine closed overnight. An outdoor chimney, or larger inside diameter will need more loss up it to keep proper draft.
    Don't overfire the stove. The large cast back plate is the largest piece that can crack if heated or cooled too quickly. Keep good liners in it, as far as I know they are still available at Woodmans.

    http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/wiki/History_of_Upland_Stove_Company/
  3. jeepyj89

    jeepyj89 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2012
    Messages:
    7
    Loc:
    watertown CT
    thanks yes the baffles are to the right side of the stove butted up with each other, i think my issue was the wood i bought wasnt fully dry i dried out some real good and the stover will maintain between 300-400 if i have the side adjustment correct
  4. webbie

    webbie Seasoned Moderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2005
    Messages:
    12,379
    Loc:
    Western Mass.
    First thing - there is no flue damper on that stove......

    The baffles slide ONLY to use it as a open fireplace stove - that is, to leave the front doors open.

    Otherwise, they should both be tight against the end of the stove furthest away from the side door. The stove then effectively operates as an end to end "cigar" type burner, with the fire being started toward the side door end. When everything burns down to coals, you rake the coals back toward the 1/2 of the stove near the air control and load again.

    This is just like a Jotul 118 or similar box stove.....explained here:
    http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/tending_a_wood_fire

    See type #2
  5. jeepyj89

    jeepyj89 New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 4, 2012
    Messages:
    7
    Loc:
    watertown CT
    sorry i must not be using the correct language, i have a damper on my exh stack behind the stove, i have it open 100% all the time is there any benifits to closing it some? i can get the stove going about 300-400* with it open and the side draft open 100% once the moisture is gone outa the wood. I want heat but also a effeciant heat also.

Share This Page