US Stove 5660 Damper

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pell it

Feeling the Heat
Dec 2, 2011
464
Rhode Island
Just got off the phone with US Stove. They are going to send me a " butterfly damper" for the stove. I had to provide purchase date and serial number to get if free of charge. I can't wait to see what they send. Will it be a whole new intake tube? Or some add-on external hack job?

I could picture in my mind the "deer in the headlights" look from the customer service girl when I asked for a vacuum level setting for the firebox. She asked me what kind of ash vacuum I was using so I proceeded to explain that I had purchased a mag gauge to set the proper vacuum level in the firebox whilst the stove was burning and she mumbled something about the control board not being adjustable and that is why they are providing the dampers. She then stated there was no recommended setting. I knew I was outnumbered so I thanked her for her time and help and hung up.

I am still waiting for prices on replacement parts. It's been weeks.
 
IIRC, that part goes on the intake tube so you can restrict the amount of incoming air to the firebox. Not sure if it would be an entire replacement intake tube or just a retrofit part. The slide damper kits USSC sent out for some other stoves were retrofits, but came with decent instructions. I've been lucky as I haven't yet had the privilege (or misfortune) of calling USSC customer service.
 
I also have the 5660 stove and called when I saw the damper in the manual but no damper on the stove. The damper they sent simply attaches onto the intake tube, easy install just slide it over and tighten two screws. There is a 1/2 butterfly valve inside that restricts the air flow, full restriction blocks 1/2 the id of the intake tube.

Tom
 
Ah great thanks for ruining the surprise!! On a serious note, that does not sound too bad. I'll just have to modify my OAK to account for the length of the new damper and remove my existing ball valve damper.
 
Sorry about ruining your surprise, now let me tell you about Santa Clause!? I haven't installed the OAK yet (on my to do list) but it should not be too difficult although an adaptor may be necessary. The ID of the butterfly housing is large enough to slip over the air intake but retains this ID for the whole length. I would assume the duct you have connecting to the air intake will be the same diameter as the butterfly housing. Thinking back to the days of trying to repair older vehicles maybe an exhaust adaptor from an auto parts store may work for you. Keep me posted like I said the OAK is on my to do list.

Tom
 
I will keep you posted once the damper arrives. How do you like the 5660 so far? I am happy with ours. On the mild days it can cook us out of the house. I was cOncerned Sun- Mon when the overnight dropped to 10*or so. The stove strut sled to maintain mid sixties in the house. Come to find out, I removed the two small square plates on either side of the heat exchanger, and found it loaded with ash!!! Damn Stive Chow / NEWP mixture!! Once I vacuumed that out she was breathing well again. Live and learn before the next cold snap!!
 

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I've only had the stove for about a month so far. We had one night when temps got down to about 10 deg. and the house was 66 deg when I got up in the morning. Our house is about 2800 sq. ft. open concept and the stove has been the only heat since the install in November. I did have a problem with the convection blower, it was noisy and when running on high it would trip the overtemp switch on the stove, then one day it stopped running, all this happened the first week I owned the stove. I called US Stove and they sent a replacement which arrived in about 4 days, and they did send out the butterfly valve as I said earlier so I guess the customer support is good.

I am still trying to figure out the stove, I set the stove on 5 (the highest setting) one night before going to bed and the overtemp switch did trip in the morning just before I went down stairs, this was about two weeks after I changed the blower. I'm not sure if this was because the stove was dirty, I cleaned it and will look for the removable plates you mentioned, I have never removed any plates when I clean the stove so it may be clogged somewhere.

Sorry for the long response, I'd say I'm happy with the stove, but I still have some learning to do.

You mentioned the stove will overheat the room it's in. I did install a wall thermostat in the next room away from the stove and it works great. I set a temperature on the thermostat and the stove will run at a higher setting you set on the panel and when the heat call is satisfied the stove goes into idle mode (setting 1) until there is a call for heat again. This was easy to install and the house maintains a constant temperature. If you are interested in installing a thermostat let me know I'll talk you through it.

Tom
 
tlelectric said:
You mentioned the stove will overheat the room it's in. I did install a wall thermostat in the next room away from the stove and it works great. I set a temperature on the thermostat and the stove will run at a higher setting you set on the panel and when the heat call is satisfied the stove goes into idle mode (setting 1) until there is a call for heat again. This was easy to install and the house maintains a constant temperature. If you are interested in installing a thermostat let me know I'll talk you through it.

Tom

What thermostat did you use? It has been on the list since I installed the stove and now that Christmas is past, maybe I can find the time to do it!

I foolheartedly bougth two tons of pellets, before I found this forum and all it's members wisdom, and they are excellent at producing heavy dark grey ash and lots of it so finding those two cleanout plates made a huge difference in how the stove burns. I am cleaning every 80-160 pounds or so. I think once I get the damper from US Stove I can really fine tune cumbustion airflow to heat level settings. Any chance you could post a pic of the damper they sent you?
 
Hi,

I'm just reading this now at work so I'll post a picture tonight when I get home.

I installed a Honeywell RTH2300B programmable thermostat for $25 at Home Depot. The directions that came with the thermostat were of no use in installing the thermostat on a pellet stove. I'm an electrician not a HVAC person so I knew the stove needed a contact closure to from the thermostat to control the temp but I was not sure what the terminations on the t-stat were. I called Honeywell customer service and they said it would not work with the 5 Volt supply on the stove. I ended up using a meter to measure which terminals open and closed with the heat call on the t-stat, agian I post tonight when I can look at the wiring. You'll also need some two wire thermostat wire to run from the stove to the thermostat. Easy install it took me about a hour, I really like having the stove on the t-stat. One thing I did notice is the high fan override on the control panel does not work when the stove is in t-stat mode, but if you put the stove in normal and use the fan override the stove will stay in high fan override when you select t-stat mode.

Thanks for posting the pictures of the plates you removed. I did this as well and mine also were clogged, guess I'll have to check these once and a while.

Tom
 
tlelectric said:
Hi,

I'm just reading this now at work so I'll post a picture tonight when I get home.

I installed a Honeywell RTH2300B programmable thermostat for $25 at Home Depot. The directions that came with the thermostat were of no use in installing the thermostat on a pellet stove. I'm an electrician not a HVAC person so I knew the stove needed a contact closure to from the thermostat to control the temp but I was not sure what the terminations on the t-stat were. I called Honeywell customer service and they said it would not work with the 5 Volt supply on the stove. I ended up using a meter to measure which terminals open and closed with the heat call on the t-stat, agian I post tonight when I can look at the wiring. You'll also need some two wire thermostat wire to run from the stove to the thermostat. Easy install it took me about a hour, I really like having the stove on the t-stat. One thing I did notice is the high fan override on the control panel does not work when the stove is in t-stat mode, but if you put the stove in normal and use the fan override the stove will stay in high fan override when you select t-stat mode.

Thanks for posting the pictures of the plates you removed. I did this as well and mine also were clogged, guess I'll have to check these once and a while.

Tom

No need to post the pic, I had a box from US Stove waiting for me when I arrived home from work today. The damper was in it without the screws to secure it. I'll dig some up tomorrow. It fits snug without them.

Thanks for the stat specs, that is my next project.
 
I've only had the stove for about a month so far. We had one night when temps got down to about 10 deg. and the house was 66 deg when I got up in the morning. Our house is about 2800 sq. ft. open concept and the stove has been the only heat since the install in November. I did have a problem with the convection blower, it was noisy and when running on high it would trip the overtemp switch on the stove, then one day it stopped running, all this happened the first week I owned the stove. I called US Stove and they sent a replacement which arrived in about 4 days, and they did send out the butterfly valve as I said earlier so I guess the customer support is good.

I am still trying to figure out the stove, I set the stove on 5 (the highest setting) one night before going to bed and the overtemp switch did trip in the morning just before I went down stairs, this was about two weeks after I changed the blower. I'm not sure if this was because the stove was dirty, I cleaned it and will look for the removable plates you mentioned, I have never removed any plates when I clean the stove so it may be clogged somewhere.

Sorry for the long response, I'd say I'm happy with the stove, but I still have some learning to do.

You mentioned the stove will overheat the room it's in. I did install a wall thermostat in the next room away from the stove and it works great. I set a temperature on the thermostat and the stove will run at a higher setting you set on the panel and when the heat call is satisfied the stove goes into idle mode (setting 1) until there is a call for heat again. This was easy to install and the house maintains a constant temperature. If you are interested in installing a thermostat let me know I'll talk you through it.

Tom

Hi Tom

The 5660 stoves have a 200 Deg F hi limit switch but the Hudson River Sarnac stoves which have the exact same body use a 250 Deg F Hi limit switch. Therefore if you swap out your 200 for a 250 then you should have no more problems with the Hi Limit Tripping!

See my thread and wire diagram
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...t-snap-disc-popping-on-high-heat-level.87544/
 
I will keep you posted once the damper arrives. How do you like the 5660 so far? I am happy with ours. On the mild days it can cook us out of the house. I was cOncerned Sun- Mon when the overnight dropped to 10*or so. The stove strut sled to maintain mid sixties in the house. Come to find out, I removed the two small square plates on either side of the heat exchanger, and found it loaded with ash!!! Damn Stive Chow / NEWP mixture!! Once I vacuumed that out she was breathing well again. Live and learn before the next cold snap!!

Hello

You should also check the 2 large plates behind the fire brick call the Ash Traps. They must be cleaned every ton or so!
See pic and detail here!
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/us-stove-5660-ap5660-sarnac-ash-trap-gasket.87531/
 
Hi,

I'm just reading this now at work so I'll post a picture tonight when I get home.

I installed a Honeywell RTH2300B programmable thermostat for $25 at Home Depot. The directions that came with the thermostat were of no use in installing the thermostat on a pellet stove. I'm an electrician not a HVAC person so I knew the stove needed a contact closure to from the thermostat to control the temp but I was not sure what the terminations on the t-stat were. I called Honeywell customer service and they said it would not work with the 5 Volt supply on the stove. I ended up using a meter to measure which terminals open and closed with the heat call on the t-stat, agian I post tonight when I can look at the wiring. You'll also need some two wire thermostat wire to run from the stove to the thermostat. Easy install it took me about a hour, I really like having the stove on the t-stat. One thing I did notice is the high fan override on the control panel does not work when the stove is in t-stat mode, but if you put the stove in normal and use the fan override the stove will stay in high fan override when you select t-stat mode.

Thanks for posting the pictures of the plates you removed. I did this as well and mine also were clogged, guess I'll have to check these once and a while.

Tom

I'm trying to do the same as this old post. I have an older Honeywell dial thermostat, (mercury), that I want to hook up to my new US Stove 5660. Us Stove says this should work. Followed instructions and it makes a different fan noise when I switch to T-STAT mode, but won't react to the call of the thermostat. Can you help?
Thanks,
Ed
 
Hi Ed,

I've been away from the forum for a while but you PM in my inbox got my attention.

I connected the thermostat using terminals (2) thermostat and (3) gnd on the control board. The stove is looking for a contact closure to verify a call for heat, when the contacts open the heat call has been satisfied, the stove will go into idle mode. I have had the stove running on a t-stat for over two years now.

Let me know how you make out,

Take care,

Tom
 
Thanks for your reply! I thought I might need a ground. So, connect a wire to the ground post on the T-STAT and then to a ground on the stove? When working right, will the T-STAT use all five heat settings relative to the temp setting? Says in the manual to preset heat settings for the T-STAT but not how do that.
 
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