Looking at an older Husqvarna 394XP for $550. What should I be looking for and checking on this saw? Any certain suspect areas that need attention?
Used Husq 394XP What should I look for?
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Jon1270
Minister of Fire
The first thing to know is that it should be in absolutely top-notch condition for $550. Do a search of completed sales on eBay to get a sense of the going rate. You'll notice that Huskies don't hold their value as well as Stihls. Unless you're buying from a dealer shop, buying locally usually means it's a purely Caveat Emptor transaction; you'll have no recourse if the saw isn't what you thought it was. eBay provides significantly more safety. Accordingly, eBay prices should be around 15% higher; your $550 local saw should look like a $650+shipping eBay saw. That means it should be very lightly used, not halfway worn out.
I don't know of any particular weak points on a 394. Inspection would be pretty much like for any other saw. Pull the muffler and check the piston for scoring. Look for exterior signs of blunt force trauma. Start it and see how it runs.
I don't know of any particular weak points on a 394. Inspection would be pretty much like for any other saw. Pull the muffler and check the piston for scoring. Look for exterior signs of blunt force trauma. Start it and see how it runs.
Lots of Swedish saws around my area they are very popular ( couple real good husky and Jonsered dealers)
I can't recall much about the 394. It's an older saw and was replaced by the 395 to best of my memory. They are very robust saws.
I would probably check the usual suspects. Pull the muffler take a look at the piston and cylinder walls. Check the compression and make sure the crank case holds air.
Just curious is it a high top ? Or low top?
I can't recall much about the 394. It's an older saw and was replaced by the 395 to best of my memory. They are very robust saws.
I would probably check the usual suspects. Pull the muffler take a look at the piston and cylinder walls. Check the compression and make sure the crank case holds air.
Just curious is it a high top ? Or low top?
Generally I agree. However in my location ( upper northern mid west ) Husky and Jonsered will compete with Stihl on resale. Especially with commercial users on pro models.
Here's a pic of it.
What compression should it have?
I don't have a leak test kit, how can I seal the crankcase to check for leaks?
I'm guessing compression on a stock saw that's been used but maintained and one that age should still read a healthy 150psi minimum.
As for checking the crank case your looking to see how long the crank case holds air. So you need to block off the exhaust port and intake port and pump air into the engine through the spark plug hole and turn over or through the impulse line. There's several kits on the market for it. Fairly inexpensive.
As for checking the crank case your looking to see how long the crank case holds air. So you need to block off the exhaust port and intake port and pump air into the engine through the spark plug hole and turn over or through the impulse line. There's several kits on the market for it. Fairly inexpensive.
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Jon1270
Minister of Fire
The pic doesn't look bad. It's grainy and badly lit, but I don't see obvious cracks, misalignments, heavy wear, etc. The bar doesn't have many miles on it.
Compression readings are often misleading, because a scored piston can make decent compression until the rings begin to stick. Low compression is always bad, but "good" compression isn't an all-systems-go sign.
Vacuum leaks are uncommon on lightly-used, non-abused saws, and performing a vac test requires more messing around than most prospective sellers will tolerate. Pulling the muffler and confirming that the piston isn't scored is fairly quick and easy, and provides a very decent margin of confidence that the fundamentals are all okay. I've bought dozens of saws over the last few years, and have never performed a vac test before making my decision. I often pull mufflers, but not always, depending on how good a deal it is.
Compression readings are often misleading, because a scored piston can make decent compression until the rings begin to stick. Low compression is always bad, but "good" compression isn't an all-systems-go sign.
Vacuum leaks are uncommon on lightly-used, non-abused saws, and performing a vac test requires more messing around than most prospective sellers will tolerate. Pulling the muffler and confirming that the piston isn't scored is fairly quick and easy, and provides a very decent margin of confidence that the fundamentals are all okay. I've bought dozens of saws over the last few years, and have never performed a vac test before making my decision. I often pull mufflers, but not always, depending on how good a deal it is.
Dairyman
Minister of Fire
Jon1270
Minister of Fire
Too bad this one isn't in your neighborhood...
HUSQVARNA CHAIN SAW 395XP - $450 (wadsworth)
image 1 of 5
make / manufacturer: Husqvarna
model name / number: 395xp
HUSQVARNA 395XP, 20" BAR 95 CC XTORQE ENGINE. THIS IS A VERY POWERFUL
COMMERCIAL SAW AND WILL RUN UP TO A 36" BAR.THIS SAW WAS $1100 NEW.
ASKING $450. CALL SCOTT AT XXX-XXX-XXXX.
HUSQVARNA CHAIN SAW 395XP - $450 (wadsworth)
image 1 of 5
make / manufacturer: Husqvarna
model name / number: 395xp
HUSQVARNA 395XP, 20" BAR 95 CC XTORQE ENGINE. THIS IS A VERY POWERFUL
COMMERCIAL SAW AND WILL RUN UP TO A 36" BAR.THIS SAW WAS $1100 NEW.
ASKING $450. CALL SCOTT AT XXX-XXX-XXXX.
Some stress cracks develop in the mufflers after time. Its near the stamped hole that the muffler bolts go through. Also take the filter covers off and look for cracking of the cover. The rest is typical for any chainsaw. Get a compression tester and check the health of the saw with it. Take the muffler off and inspect the piston for scoring. I don't think most sellers are going to tolerate a stranger to a vac/pressure test on the saw. That usually not an option because you have to take the muffler, and carb/intake boot off to install a block off plates. If you've never don't the test its probably not the first time you want to try doing one. If I was a seller I'd tell you to go pound sand.
And he sold it one hour before we were supposed to meet. The one in Ohio looks nice!
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Jon1270
Minister of Fire
Sorry to hear you missed out. Craigslist is unforgiving.
I share Marshy's curiosity, because while a 394 is a great saw for milling or for bucking really big trees, it's awfully heavy to use for much of anything else.
I share Marshy's curiosity, because while a 394 is a great saw for milling or for bucking really big trees, it's awfully heavy to use for much of anything else.
I will say having a big saw like that is nice to have around if and when you need it. But the saws potential is not being fully utilized with a 20 inch bar on it
Personally for me I've got acreage in the family to maintain. I keep my 661 around for the numerous cottonwoods that are 4 feet plus around in diameter. I could cut them with my 2172 but the 661 is better at it. Did I need a 661 ? No. But I do have some use for it so it's nice to have.
But if I could only have 1 large saw it would be my 2172 or any other 70cc saw mainly because the 661 is just heavy and hard to use for any length of time. But I'm in my 40s a person in their 20s might disagree on that.
But both those saws see very little use compared to my 50cc
The one thing you will like about that high top air filter is how long it stays clean. Huskys/ Jreds are very popular in my neck of the woods and a few friends and family members have 372s with the high top and it's nothing to go an entire weekend of heavy cutting with not so much as a few specs on the air filter.
Personally for me I've got acreage in the family to maintain. I keep my 661 around for the numerous cottonwoods that are 4 feet plus around in diameter. I could cut them with my 2172 but the 661 is better at it. Did I need a 661 ? No. But I do have some use for it so it's nice to have.
But if I could only have 1 large saw it would be my 2172 or any other 70cc saw mainly because the 661 is just heavy and hard to use for any length of time. But I'm in my 40s a person in their 20s might disagree on that.
But both those saws see very little use compared to my 50cc
The one thing you will like about that high top air filter is how long it stays clean. Huskys/ Jreds are very popular in my neck of the woods and a few friends and family members have 372s with the high top and it's nothing to go an entire weekend of heavy cutting with not so much as a few specs on the air filter.
Attaboy
Member
That looks like a really very used saw to me, it is not even a $500.00 saw unless a saw dealer can confirm it is in optimum condition and you can try it out.
You can get a nice new mid size saw for around that kind of money.
You can get a nice new mid size saw for around that kind of money.
Doesn't look that used to me. My new 661 that's not even a year old yet looks kinda in that condition. My jonsered 2172 is a few years old now and looks beat up compared to the Husky in the pictures. Yet it runs like a champ and has a lot of cords left in it. When it losses compression or spins a bearing etc , I figure less than a $200 rebuild and it's as good as new when it's needed. That Husky Certainly doesn't look like a saw used in a high production environment. If it's in good mechanical condition then $500 is cheaper than a new similar size saw at over $1,000
Why would he get a mid size saw ? He already has one of the best mid size saws available the Dolmar 6100.
Plus he said he wants this saw for milling. That husky would make a fine milling saw. A mid size saw would not. Plus at $500 that less than half the cost of a new saw of that size. And saws are cheap and easy to rebuild.
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Yeah I don't need a mid sized saw. Looking to get something big enough for milling but don't really want to buy new. I figured that way if milling doesn't work out at least it's a minimal investment.
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There you go...if the compression is good your set. Whats the end purpose for milling? You planning on a building? You looking at a Alaskan set up? Always wanted to do that...
The plan is to mill some of the maple and oak logs that I'm felling with the Granberg but if that doesn't work out I may have a lead on borrowing a sawmill. Then I'll stash that lumber in my barn, in the hay loft, to dry and some day when I have more time begin to make some furniture. I have a spalted maple log that I think might make a good table...
Sounds good! I am slowly collecting my woodworking tools and would love to make some furniture of my own...soon enough...
