Used Quadrafire 4300 issues

[pyroclayman]

Greetings woodburners!!

I installed a used Quadrafire 4300 the other day, and have only fired it three times. It's running a little fast when banked down all the way. Not a lot fast, only a little. This is in a 1400 sq ft manufactured home. Door gasket is tight, as is the flue. Now granted, it has't been that cold yet, and too, this stove is new to me. But it's putting out a little too much heat on slow, and I can tell by it's behavior that in January, we are gonna wake up cold.

I do see an issue, a crack. But if I'm reading this stoves functions right, it's not the problem. Wish I could post a pic, but can't. So looking into the stove, on rear, up near the ceiling of the stove, is raised rectangle, going crossways, with holes all the way across. This has a crack verticaly, just right of center. My thinking is that since this crack is in the area with all the little holes, and down stream from the actual air control, that it shouldn't matter. But I don't know.

I gotta slow this thing down before winter. It's close, but no cigar.

Thanks a million for any help offered

 

[Jags]

Depending on your complete setup and assuming that the stove does not have a problem causing this--on RARE occasions, a stove pipe damper is just the ticket.

Maybe we need a little more info.

What stove top temps are you running when you say "a little over the top" (paraphrased)

Can the fuel load be adjusted?

How long is your flue run?

Are you SURE that you have a complete grasp of the stove controls (not trying to insult, but it happens)

What does the actual fire look like. Big flames, orange coals, etc. And what are you burning?

Oh, and welcome to the forum.

 

[pyroclayman]

Will check stove top temps tonight. (have digital pyrometer, I'm a potter)

Fuel is lodgepole pine. (That's what central Oregon burns)

Yes, the fuel load can be adjusted, BUT, as it's just now cooling down enough to need fire, these first test fireings are with very small fuel loads. Imagine a 16 inch, by 10 round, quartered. three of those. I do understand the controls. So with the starter control closed after a few minutes, then after things get going good, evern after closing the main control all ther way, (which does indeed slow things down) once we get to some good coals going, it's really not slow enough. Cant really quite get down to that nice "smolder" with the blue flames of burning smoke dancing around on top of the load.

Flue run is about 12 ft. Which is quite average for the mfg. home around here.

So to answer your last question about flame appearance, the main control will slow it visably down, a lot. But if you've got much of a coal bed, and you throw a stick in on top of that, then close her all the way down, you still wind up with lazy orange flames, and quite a few of them. Of course if you open the main control at that point, she takes off and will run you out of the house, as would be expected.

I would really like to try and have the main air controll shut her down a hair more. Is that possible with this stove? Is that adjustable?

Depending on your complete setup and assuming that the stove does not have a problem causing this--on RARE occasions, a stove pipe damper is just the ticket.

Maybe we need a little more info.

What stove top temps are you running when you say "a little over the top" (paraphrased)

Can the fuel load be adjusted?

How long is your flue run?

Are you SURE that you have a complete grasp of the stove controls (not trying to insult, but it happens)

What does the actual fire look like. Big flames, orange coals, etc. And what are you burning?

Oh, and welcome to the forum.

 

[pyroclayman]

Ha! I should have looked underneath the front, I just answered ONE of my questions. I see how the slinding flap on main air control works. The sliding plate reston on a triangular opening, and and even when close all the way leaves the "point" of the triangle uncovered. This is why closing the air does not completely put the fire out. I will experement with slightly, and then completely closiing that off. If I find the right amount to leave open, or completely close, I could tack weld a small piece of steel over the tip of the triangular opening. I will experemtnt and report back, in case anyone might benifit?

Thank you so much for replys so far. It is VERY much appreciated. I will also check things out with the pyrometer tonight.

Best regards to all

 

[pyroclayman]

Well HA agiain, I'm laughing at myself!! On even CLOSER inspection of the main air control aparatus, I see that someone, (the factory?)has put a stop screw from underneath, which prevents the slider form coming back all the way to cover the triancle opening. I will cut the tack weld on head of screw and see if I can get it out. Success may be near! Tonight will tell.

I know that the farther we shut these down, the dirty-er, more creosote in pipe. I don't mind cleaning chimney how ever often needed.. I may put the stop in the slider in a new location, not allowing for complete shutdown.