Using synthetic oil for bar and chain lube

[Adkjake]

Shouldn't be a problem, should it? Might be a plus even?

I'm about 2/3 of the way thru this morning's log cutting job, stop to refuel the saw and fill the bar and chain resevoir, I'm out of oil. Go out to the garage
and all I have on hand is some 10W - 40 synthetic motor oil. Figure what the heck, want to finish the job and not have to make a run for a quart of oil. So
that's what I used. Seemed to do fine, but only cut for a half hour or 45 minutes.

Also wondering about different saws and how much bar and chain lube they go through. I have a Poulan Pro 16 and a recently purchased Husqvarna 240 series, also 16 inch. Both are 35cc engines I believe. The Poulan will go forever on a fill up of the bar and chain tank. The Husqvarna uses one tank of lube oil for one tank of gas. The tank sizes seem similar on both saws.

Anyone else notice a big differnces in how much oil different saws use?

 

[ribs1]

My dolmar seems to use 1 tank of chain oil for every 2 tanks of gas.
I don't see any problem using synthetic oil.

 

[smokinj]

synthetic motor oil will not break down that would be the only problem.

 

[John_M]

adk, I am of the impression that bar and chain oils from at least Husqvarna and Stihl have an additive which makes their oil cling to the metal parts for more thorough lubrication. Conventional petroleum and synthetic motor oils do not have this additive and may be lacking others as well. That said, however, I would do the same thing you did in that circumstance. Return to approved bar and chain oils and there will be no harm done. John_M

 

[Adkjake]

are they the same type additives as Duralube or STP oil treatment?

I have both in the shop and could add them to the synthetic or regular motor oil

 

[Gooserider]

The rule I've always gone by is about 3/4-7/8 of a tank of bar oil to a tank of gas - theory being that the saw designers want you to run out of gas before you run out of oil, but not have to carry around a bunch of extra oil, so if you start with both tanks full, the gas tank should run out with just enough oil left that you are sure the gas ran out first... This is something I learned back in the bad old days when manly men had right thumbs that were twice the size of their left thumbs because of working the manual oilers... It was supposed to be the indicator of whether or not you were pumping enough...

There are some people that say it should be 2 tanks of gas to one of oil, but I've never understood the logic of that... Why would the saw designer want you to carry around the extra weight of that un-needed oil for the first tank of gas?

As to using synthetic; as mentioned it doesn't break down as much as regular oil does, so one can wonder about it's environmental impact... It is also much thinner than normal bar oil, and doesn't have the tackifiers and other additives that they usually add to help make the oil stick to the chain rather than getting thrown off. OTOH, synthetic is claimed to be a better lubricant... I'd worry about whether it would get used up to fast, and wouldn't want to run it on a regular basis, but it probably wouldn't hurt to use it as emergency oil like you did... That said, I also don't think it would hurt anything, and might help, to mix in some STP or other such "potions" to thicken it up and make it stickier if you have them on hand.

Gooserider

 

[Bigg_Redd]

Use the synthetic oil. As long as it doesn't run out before your gas runs out you'll be fine. If you smoke your bar I'll buy you a new one.

 

[Adkjake]

The Husqrarna owner's manual states if both are full you'll run out of gas before bar and chain oil and that seems to be the case. I'll have to dig out the Poulan manual and see what's in there.

I have to head over to Lowe's today anyway, so problem solved, will pick up a good supply of bar and chain oil.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

The rule I've always gone by is about 3/4-7/8 of a tank of bar oil to a tank of gas - theory being that the saw designers want you to run out of gas before you run out of oil, but not have to carry around a bunch of extra oil, so if you start with both tanks full, the gas tank should run out with just enough oil left that you are sure the gas ran out first... This is something I learned back in the bad old days when manly men had right thumbs that were twice the size of their left thumbs because of working the manual oilers... It was supposed to be the indicator of whether or not you were pumping enough...

There are some people that say it should be 2 tanks of gas to one of oil, but I've never understood the logic of that... Why would the saw designer want you to carry around the extra weight of that un-needed oil for the first tank of gas?

As to using synthetic; as mentioned it doesn't break down as much as regular oil does, so one can wonder about it's environmental impact... It is also much thinner than normal bar oil, and doesn't have the tackifiers and other additives that they usually add to help make the oil stick to the chain rather than getting thrown off. OTOH, synthetic is claimed to be a better lubricant... I'd worry about whether it would get used up to fast, and wouldn't want to run it on a regular basis, but it probably wouldn't hurt to use it as emergency oil like you did... That said, I also don't think it would hurt anything, and might help, to mix in some STP or other such "potions" to thicken it up and make it stickier if you have them on hand.

Gooserider

+1

 

[Tony H]

I would / have done the same with the oil . The stihl uses 1 tank of oil for each 2 tanks of fuel the pooland I had used 3,4 tanks of fuel for each of oil thinking back maybe that's another reason it performed so poorly. I would go back to the regular bar oil now and only substitute in an emergency.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Strange. My Stihl is one for one.


EDIT: Every saw I've ever used has been one for one.

 

[jeff_t]

Don't know if the oil pump is adjustable on the Poulan. If it is I would richen it up. Bar oil is pretty cheap in the big picture.
But so are Poulans.

 

[billb3]

If I was using one tank of oil to two tanks of gas I'd be cleaning out the oil channels or trying to find out what was wrong. Cutting oak I'd be seeing steam/smoke coming off the bar though, too.
I have the adjuster on the Stihl at about 3/4 of the way to max.
Could be I've had small oil tanks.

 

[Henz]

I run nothing by Husquvarna bar oil...

 

[smokinj]

Strange. My Stihl is one for one.


EDIT: Every saw I've ever used has been one for one.

the designed was to run out of bar oil much quicker than gas,most stihls will have close to a 1/2 tank of oil even when the oiler is wide open..

 

[cre73]

I try to run one for one on my Stihl also.

 

[Adkjake]

There's no adjustment on the chain oiler on the Poulan, but the owner's manual recommends adding a couple of ounces of diesel oil or kerosene when cutting during freezing weather. Anybody do this?

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

There’s no adjustment on the chain oiler on the Poulan, but the owner’s manual recommends adding a couple of ounces of diesel oil or kerosene when cutting during freezing weather. Anybody do this?

No, I missed that part in the owner's manual. I noticed also that when brand new this last fall, I would have about 1/4 tank of oil left every time I emptied the gas tank. This winter I got worried when I ran a couple tanks of gas an never needed to top off the oil. I took it in an was advised by the small engine repair guy to use 30W motor oil in cold weather.

Now it's back to .75:1 ratio.

I think the logic is to run out of gas before oil so that you never worry about running the chain unlubed. At the same time they don't oversize the oil tank so 1) you're not carrying excess oil weight and 2) you don't get in the bad habit of not even checking the oil level when you fill up the gas.

If you're not using more than 1/2 tank oil for every gas tank there's a problem.

Frankly, I'm not going to buy bar-chain oil ever again. I'm simply going to use used motor oil from now on. I'll filter it first of course.