Usstove hotblast replacement?

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laynes69

Minister of Fire
Oct 2, 2006
2,677
Ashland OH
As regulations are changing, I've been watching closely to see if any new designs will be hitting the market. So far, just about all new furnaces are very similiar. Tonight while browsing the web, I found a new model from usstove. It's an Ashley AF700, and appears may be a replacement for the Hotblast furnaces? I couldn't find a manual, but I'm curious on its design .
 
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Interesting......I want to see these one of these in person. Usstove purchased Newmac in Canada, so they very well could introduce other models. I wish the EPA list was up to date, could help find other models.
 
OK, this is interesting, the Ashley AF700 uses two 8" supply pipes (like Tundra/Heatmax) and the Golden Eagle(s) use a plenum (like Caddy/Max Caddy)...otherwise, the Ashley and Golden Eagles look fairly similar to each other
 
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The Golden Eagles can be installed as stand alone, series or parallel. I'm curious how all these furnaces will perform. Someday I may be in the market for a larger furnace that will take a series install. I don't think the tube system is patented, therefore many copycat designs. I'll be watching other manufacturers to see what they offer.
 
Does anyone know what the price of this new AF700 will be? Is there a similar US Stove which I can compare a price to? I am on a tight budget for my chimney and stove,,,,
 
Does anyone know what the price of this new AF700 will be? Is there a similar US Stove which I can compare a price to? I am on a tight budget for my chimney and stove,,,,
I don't think their is much if any info out there on 'em yet, but you could try to get a price from a USSC dealer...
 
It'd be alright if they wanna send ya a free one for testing I 'spose...;lol
 
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Personally, I hate 1st year anything. I don't like being a guinea pig.
Understandable, but it has to start somewhere. Hopefully they honor warranties, or won't need them. There's going to be many new furnaces and only time will tell how they perform. The main issue that will arise from all of this will be improper operation due to the use of wet wood.
 
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Biggest problem with any reviews of wood burning appliances is the X factor, was the wood (really) dry. And install of DIY or hvac that really only know fossil fuel.
 
hvac that really only know fossil fuel.
Good luck finding one. Seems like HVAC guys don't wanna mess with solid fuel burners, and half (or more) of the people that install for the stove dealers are full of it...and then do not want to install a burner that was not bought from them anyways
 
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I meant fossil as oil and gas. Sorry. Your right though. I have often thought about starting a wood burner service company, but I don't think there is enough business in it.
 
I have often thought about starting a wood burner service company, but I don't think there is enough business in it.
Yeah, me too. I have installed 6 now, either mine, family or friends. I figure business would be very seasonal and major headaches from people burning "seasoned" wood :rolleyes: I don't have much tolerance for fools anymore "My clutch never slipped until you changed my tail light bulb" :ZZZ :mad: :mad: :mad: my blood pressure goes up even typing that ;lol
 
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As regulations are changing, I've been watching closely to see if any new designs will be hitting the market. So far, just about all new furnaces are very similiar. Tonight while browsing the web, I found a new model from usstove. It's an Ashley AF700, and appears may be a replacement for the Hotblast furnaces? I couldn't find a manual, but I'm curious on its design .

I purchased the Tractor Supply version of this stove. It's model number is CF700M and it is called the Clayton (sells for $1,300 which is considerably cheaper than the Ashley). I now have about 7 burns in it.

I like the furnace, but had to make modifications to it. I replaced a US Stove Hotblast with this stove, so will make comparisons between the Hotblast and the Clayton.

The specs on the Clayton says it will handle 24 inch logs--it is more like 22 inches for a comfortable fit.

The two 8 inch hot air vents are closer together than the Hotblast, so I had to make modify where they are attached to the plenum.

There is no air intake bimetal thermostat on the Clayton as there is on the Hotblast. Instead, there is a hinged louver. I think the reason is that, to meet EPA specs, you can't really starve the stove of air. There is a screw adjustment to this louver, but there is enough resistance on the hinge that I can just open and close it by hand (using gloves). I put a wood stove thermometer on the exhaust stovepipe. Even with the louver all the way open, the stove doesn't get that hot as the thermometer barely entered the normal range, so it seems safe to use even if kept all the way open. I can't really tell a lot of difference between when the louver is all the way open or closed. When starting the fire, however, you will want to open the louver all the way.

I fired up the furnace outside first. This burned off the paint and other fumes before bringing it inside. It would get pretty nasty if you brought it inside for the first burn. The user manual recommends this.

Once I got the stove installed inside, I installed the fan motors and fired it up. There is a thermodisk attached to the back of the stove that activates the fans at a certain temperature and then turns the fans off at a lower temperature. This the same arrangement as the Hotblast. With the Clayton, the thermodisk kept cycling on and off. Apparently the cool air being sucked into the fans cools down the thermodisk enough to shut off the electrical connection. I called tech support and they said the fan needs to be enclosed so it is drawing hot air off the stove. There is no reference to this in the user manual. I welded up a frame which encloses the back and top of the stove. I also encased a 10" by 2' galvanized piece of duct around the stovepipe to suck hot air coming off the exhaust stovepipe down into the fans. It works great. The thermodisk happily keeps the fans running. It also releases much less heat into the room where my furnace is located than my Hotblast. I also installed a frame for a 20" by 24" pleated furnace filter into the enclosed frame. It sends much hotter air into my plenum than the Hotblast did. My guess is that it heats up my living air about 30% faster than the Hotblast.

As far as efficiency goes, I'm probably using half the wood for an equivalent burn. I would be careful opening the door to add wood when the stove is at full burn. (I could do this with the Hotblast) When I tried this, the flame came out the opening. However, there is no problem if I let it die down to coal before opening the doors.

Would I buy it again? Yes. I think it is a great furnace and a definite upgrade from the Hotblast.
 
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Hopefully the blowers aren't as junk as the ones on the hotblast lol. I do not miss my hotblast but only for 3 reasons Wood usage, junk blowers, and creosote.
It did produce good heat however the red beast was a hungry girl.
That being said there are a few things in the drolet I'm not thrilled about. Cheap wingnuts on clean out doors, damper door so thin it warped, fan still slightly underpowered with controls that aren't the greatest (i.e. snap disks than don't offer the best control)
I will be adding the temp control everyone else has.

I look forward to following these new products however will not be replacing the heatmax for a long time as it was a huge pain in the ass to get into my basement.

Nice looking unit though
 
I also encased a 10" by 2' galvanized piece of duct around the stovepipe to suck hot air coming off the exhaust stovepipe down into the fans
Sounds like a good way to wake up dead to me...serious CO risk there!
 
Sounds like a good way to wake up dead to me...serious CO risk there!
Sounds like he built a basic heat reclaimer. How would that suck CO from the inside of the flu? I mean maybe if it was around a joint. More likely I don't understand what he did. Sounds like he welded a pipe around the outside of the flu. Heat reclaimers I learned thx to Brenn would be bad as they would rob the flu of heat. Bad idea. lol.
 
How would that suck CO from the inside of the flu
If the negative pressure in the "heat reclaimer" is greater than the negative pressure in the flue...uh oh!
It would be more likely to happen at a joint...but most stove pipe has a seam full length so...
 
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If the negative pressure in the "heat reclaimer" is greater than the negative pressure in the flue...uh oh!
It would be more likely to happen at a joint...but most stove pipe has a seam full length so...
I see. Not so sure that would occur but what do I know :) seriously. lol