Vent Clearance Issue. What would you do?

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DV

Feeling the Heat
Feb 6, 2012
264
Southern MD
Need advice. This is 4 inch duravent which requires 1 ' clearance to combustibles. When going through my foundation I hit 2 pieces of rebar which I did not want to cut. So as a result this is where my vent ended up. I've got a hare more than 3/4 inch clearance from pipe to the siding outside. Behind the siding is an inch of concrete then my wall base 2by4. At this point the vent piping run it is 6 feet up and about 2 feet horizontal downstream from stove. Not sure how hot this will actually get outside? Should I use a dremel and carve out a half inch of siding? I dont want to but I also want to sleep at night not worrying about it.

*note* the steel bracket is just a brace for the piping untill I mortar the whole back. Probally dont need it there.
 

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DV said:
Need advice. This is 4 inch duravent which requires 1 ' clearance to combustibles. When going through my foundation I hit 2 pieces of rebar which I did not want to cut. So as a result this is where my vent ended up. I've got a hare more than 3/4 inch clearance from pipe to the siding outside. Behind the siding is an inch of concrete then my wall base 2by4. At this point the vent piping run it is 6 feet up and about 2 feet horizontal downstream from stove. Not sure how hot this will actually get outside? Should I use a dremel and carve out a half inch of siding? I dont want to but I also want to sleep at night not worrying about it.

*note* the steel bracket is just a brace for the piping untill I mortar the whole back. Probally dont need it there.

You may not want to read this, but you asked the question, so I would rent a sawzall with a metal cutting blade, and cut the rebar out. I would then chip the concrete to lower the hole for proper clearance.

For visual purposes here is a sawzall:
http://woodworker.com/sawzall-varia..._medium=feed&gclid=CKuY5dfR1a4CFeURNAodLnnodw

Then I could sleep at night, no offense intended, but I'm too light a sleeper, so I try to eliminate anything that bothers me. ;-)

1D
 
Im sure there is a little more concrete behind that siding?? You could just round cut like you said (1" is 1"). Or I.would square cut it, giving yourself a little more room and use J-channel to dress it up.

This is, if there is 1" of concrete above the top of the hole you cut. The siding on my house covers more than a inch of the block.

If its less than 1" of block, then I would cut the rebar. But the siding would be my 1st option. Cut the siding up an inch or two and then across the top about 6", then add channel.

[====]
O
 
My 2 cents, for the small fraction of an inch, that you are short, I wouldn't worry about it.

Tom C.
 
I'd sleep just fine the way it is, but, to insurance companies an inch is an inch (more likely an inch and a half) >:-( If you have an inch or more of concrete to your rim joist behind the siding I'd trim the siding back.
 
silverfox103 said:
My 2 cents, for the small fraction of an inch, that you are short, I wouldn't worry about it.

Tom C.

I agree.

To poster 1Dtml.....on a side note.......there are people in the world that don't know what a SawZall is?????????? :gulp: Wow.
 
So am I too detailed, too helpful, too long winded, or do I worry too much?

Now that I read this probably all of the above. :zip:

1D
 
1Dtml said:
So am I too detailed, too helpful, too long winded, or do I worry too much?

Now that I read this probably all of the above. :zip:

1D

Keep right on being that way, it may save you or someone else.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
1Dtml said:
So am I too detailed, too helpful, too long winded, or do I worry too much?

Now that I read this probably all of the above. :zip:

1D

Keep right on being that way, it may save you or someone else.

Thank you so much for the kind words, but it's all good. :coolsmile:

1D
 
Cut the rebar! That way there are no worries with insurance or melted siding. The missing rebar won'd mean a thing. Use a trim collar to hide the 'ooops' or fill it in with concrete. (grease up the pipe)
 
tjnamtiw said:
Cut the rebar! That way there are no worries with insurance or melted siding. The missing rebar won'd mean a thing. Use a trim collar to hide the 'ooops' or fill it in with concrete. (grease up the pipe)

+1
 
Thanks for the advice. Got a little more work to do.
 
add a heat shield, centered between the pipe and siding
creating a half inch air gap both sides
also I can hold the pipe inside the house with my stove running
does not get as hot as you might think
 
What I would do is to check your clearance requirements. Most pellet vent has AT LEAST
a 3" clearance to combustibles, & I believe 4" pellet vent has a 4" clearance requirement.
 
DAKSY said:
What I would do is to check your clearance requirements. Most pellet vent has AT LEAST
a 3" clearance to combustibles, & I believe 4" pellet vent has a 4" clearance requirement.

1" Clearance to Combustibles on Pellet Vent Pro.
 
DexterDay said:
DAKSY said:
What I would do is to check your clearance requirements. Most pellet vent has AT LEAST
a 3" clearance to combustibles, & I believe 4" pellet vent has a 4" clearance requirement.

1" Clearance to Combustibles on Pellet Vent Pro.

Learn sumthin new every day!
 
Yup, live and learn, and I hope to do both for a long while yet.
;-)

1D
 
DAKSY said:
DexterDay said:
DAKSY said:
What I would do is to check your clearance requirements. Most pellet vent has AT LEAST
a 3" clearance to combustibles, & I believe 4" pellet vent has a 4" clearance requirement.

1" Clearance to Combustibles on Pellet Vent Pro.

Learn sumthin new every day!
You made me nervous for a second.
 
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