Venting a Regency Hampton GCI60 pellet insert through a prefab/zero clearance fireplace?

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1Dtml

Feeling the Heat
Nov 22, 2011
306
CT
I would like to vent a pellet stove up the existing 8" chimney on a Heatilator E36 fireplace. The existing chimney is rated for 1700 degrees, so can this be done?

What is the temperature rating of pellet stove vent pipe?

Thank you,

1D
 
Dont think the temp rating matters as much as a Stove (insert in your case) is permitted to go into a Pre-fab fireplace. Many models available to do this. And unlike a Woodstove. A pellet insert is just as efficient as a freestanding because they rely on convective heat as opposed to radiant heat.

There are only 2 downsides to using an insert. 1- Cleaning is a little harder (have to pull unit out) 2- Hopper size is a little smaller (not All the time)

You may still be able to put a freestanding stove in. I have Zero experience in that area. But as long as your Hearth met the Manufacturers requirements, you use a liner, and install block-off plates, you should be good.

Someone should be along shortly to help you with your "exact" question. You had posted in the Hearth Room asking about a freestanding. So hopefully someone with a freestanding into Pre-Fab can help.
 
DexterDay said:
Dont think the temp rating matters as much as a Stove (insert in your case) is permitted to go into a Pre-fab fireplace. Many models available to do this. And unlike a Woodstove. A pellet insert is just as efficient as a freestanding because they rely on convective heat as opposed to radiant heat.

There are only 2 downsides to using an insert. 1- Cleaning is a little harder (have to pull unit out) 2- Hopper size is a little smaller (not All the time)

You may still be able to put a freestanding stove in. I have Zero experience in that area. But as long as your Hearth met the Manufacturers requirements, you use a liner, and install block-off plates, you should be good.

Someone should be along shortly to help you with your "exact" question. You had posted in the Hearth Room asking about a freestanding. So hopefully someone with a freestanding into Pre-Fab can help.

Thank you for the reply, but I'm not really interested in an insert.

I'm looking to a freestanding like the Harman XXV, but I didn't know about needing a block off plate?

1D
 
Some Inserts have a --clearance kit available on them for this design. Piping an exhaust through it on a freestanding model probably isn't up to code in CT.
 
I have seen this done on the site here somewhere. I believe it was an Enviro M-55 insert.
Sorry I can't lead you directly to it, but yes it has been done.
 
Should not be a problem. The 8" pipe is just a conduit for your pellet vent pipe you neeed to run to the top of the chimney.
 
I pulled mine zero clearance out all together ,then my installer lined my existing pipe to fit my m55 insert.
I also built a box as per manufacture specs. Was not hard at all..hope this hepls.
D
 
depending on the vent requirements for your stove, and what's on the other side of your zc box, you may be better off just punching through to the outside for a horizontal vent instead of running liner all the way to the top
 
first off DV gas appliance thimble is huge... pellet vent is smaller. You will have to remove the old and install new or the heat loss will defeat what your trying to do. 90% of the DV apliances that I have installed or seen installed just stub thru the wall, as the take the fresh air in the outside of the pipe. pellet vent does not do that.
 
DirtyDave said:
first off DV gas appliance thimble is huge... pellet vent is smaller. You will have to remove the old and install new or the heat loss will defeat what your trying to do. 90% of the DV apliances that I have installed or seen installed just stub thru the wall, as the take the fresh air in the outside of the pipe. pellet vent does not do that.

He doesn't have a DV unit. It's a woodburner.

To the OP: You can do this without issue.
Run 3" Pellet Vent off the back of your
stove & into the ZC box. If your run is
longer than 15' to the cap you will have to
increase to a 4" liner which will run from
the PV to the cap. You may have to remove
the damper in order to get your liner thru,
but I've been able to leave the damper in
for some installations. That will depend on the
configuration of yours. Removing it makes the
install easier, & will make insulating easier as well.
You can build a block-off plate, or you can stuff
unfaced fibreglass or Kaowool around the liner where
it enters the wood vent. You may have to get creative
at the top as the plates that come with the liner kits are
generally square & your wood vent is round.
 
Thank you all for all your help!!!!

After much research the only code compliant/safe way to do this install was to remove the existing zero clearance fireplace, and replace it with a pellet stove or pellet stove insert using the manufacturers approved installation and venting methods.

We chose the Regency GCI60 pellet insert to grant my wife's wish not to intrude too far into the living space.

I met with the building inspector, and he approved the building of a fireproof enclosure as per manufacturers installation instructions.

The existing zero clearance chimney is either to be be abandoned, or removed, and pellet style direct venting with a 5' vertical for good drafting was approved.

Once again thanks for all who participated in my quest for knowledge, for your help has been immeasurable.

1D
 
I started the zero clearance removal today, and I am trying to save as much marble and mantel as I can.

First I removed the mantel, and for all those going to try this I recommend removing one layer of trim a a time, and not to bother trying to pry it off the drywall because I damaged the drywall for nothing. I could only get the mantel off by removing the top layer of trims that exposed the screws that held it to the wall.

I then tried to save the marble, and I was only partially successful.
The top piece was easy to cut the glue away, and gently pry away from the drywall, but the sides were well glued to the metal front of the fireplace, so these broke off in sections.

Next I worked carefully on the marble hearth, for I really wanted to save this.
I pulled back the carpet, and removed the carpet nailing strips.
I noticed a piece of drywall was under the hearth, so I was able to carefully remove small sections of drywall to get a foothold for my pry-bar.
I then used a PVC cut saw to cut a slot through the drywall at the hearth corners.
I then carefully installed my pry-bar into one foothold at a time and gently pried up with the pry-bar.
After doing this I felt a release, and the whole hearth was saved without damage.

So far, so good. :cheese:

1D
 
Which insert did you settle on?
 
flynfrfun said:
Which insert did you settle on?

I ended up with the Regency Hampton GCI60(same as the Enviro M55).

1D
 
Normally when we tear out a prefab wood fire place we do not disturb the face or hearth. we destroy the box and take it out in pieces. There is no market for the used units, once it comes out you will probably wonder how you can burn anything in there w/out burning house down. The ones I have seen have been very cheaply built. We normally tear out and install a zc box and harman accentra insert in about 6-7 hours.
 
rickwai said:
Normally when we tear out a prefab wood fire place we do not disturb the face or hearth. we destroy the box and take it out in pieces. There is no market for the used units, once it comes out you will probably wonder how you can burn anything in there w/out burning house down. The ones I have seen have been very cheaply built. We normally tear out and install a zc box and harman accentra insert in about 6-7 hours.

I guess I'm just too used to being a waste not want not type, for I hadn't looked at it from this point of view, but I love to learn. ;-)

I will probably end up taking your advice today, so how do I cut this apart without having the chimney fall in on me?

I took a very hard look at the Harman Accentra, but the stove sales person said it probably wasn't big enough to heat the whole house, and believe me he preferred to sell Harman as Regency is a new brand for him.

Thank you very much for the input :)

1D
 
For anyone going to attempt this be aware that the whole chimney may be supported by the top of the zero clearance fireplace. :ahhh:

I removed the drywall that butted up against the fireplace, and found the mounting flange on each side.
After removing the screws from the mounting flanges, I set about loosening up the chimney connection at the top of the fireplace, and between removing the screws, and prying at the chimney to fireplace connection I was able to get it loose enough to slide the fireplace forward. I then was able the use a pry-bar from the bottom to pry the fireplace out from the wall. I pulled the bottom all the way out until I could flip the fireplace on its backside.
Here is when I realized that the chimney wasn't secured at all, for it ended up behind the fireplace on the chase floor.

I was very lucky that the chimney wasn't secured to the rain cap securely, or I suspect that the aluminum chase cap would have been pulled apart by the weight of the 25' chimney.

I was able to disconnect one section of chimney at a time, and remove it while resting the remainder of the chimney on the chase floor.



It is raining here, and I'm glad because I know that there are no leaks that were created by removing the chimney. :)

1D
 

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Would love to see a photo of the finished project when you're done! I am contemplating doing something similar.
 
Frogwood said:
Would love to see a photo of the finished project when you're done! I am contemplating doing something similar.

I'm kinda photo adding illiterate, but I've taken starting, and progressing photos, so I'll see what the wifey can do. ;-P

1D
 
Why not use the 8 inch to 3 inch adapter I have one and works great and has good draft. This will save you of buying 15 ft or more of 3 inch pipe if the 8 inch liner is rated to 1700 it will easily handle pellet stove heat (am I missing something here)
 
1Dtml said:
flynfrfun said:
Which insert did you settle on?

I ended up with the Regency Hampton GCI60(same as the Enviro M55).

1D

Saw one at the bigE(eastern states fair) and like the looks of it. Nice looking stove. Keep us posted on how you like it once its burning and Pictures of it are a must! ;-)

Bet you can't wait until itsd burning?
 
karl0525 said:
Why not use the 8 inch to 3 inch adapter I have one and works great and has good draft. This will save you of buying 15 ft or more of 3 inch pipe if the 8 inch liner is rated to 1700 it will easily handle pellet stove heat (am I missing something here)

I can't tell if you are missing anything, but the inspector would not allow a sleeve through the zero clearance fireplace (and now I see why), so he approved complete removal of the existing zero clearance fireplace, and the install of the pellet insert installed as per manual (build of fireproof enclosure, and direct vent out the back of the wooden chase).

FWIW, I'm glad I had to remove the zero clearance fireplace, and I'm probably fortunate that I didn't use it much. :bug:

Another tip, I recommend that before you remove a zero clearance fireplace you go up on the roof, and remove the rain cap from the top of the chimney, for my chimney was only supported by resting on the top of the zero clearance fireplace.

When I pulled out the zero clearance fireplace the chimney came down with it and landed on the floor of the chase, and I was just lucky that the installer hadn't fastened the rain cap very securely or it would have ruined the chimney chase cap by pulling through it as the chimney fell.

Wifey is resting, but I should be able to put some pictures up within a few days.

1D
 
j-takeman said:
1Dtml said:
flynfrfun said:
Which insert did you settle on?

I ended up with the Regency Hampton GCI60(same as the Enviro M55).

1D

Saw one at the bigE(eastern states fair) and like the looks of it. Nice looking stove. Keep us posted on how you like it once its burning and Pictures of it are a must! ;-)

Bet you can't wait until itsd burning?

You are right I can't wait to use it, but I'll have to because the installer is scheduled two weeks out. :shut:

But I have I bunch of work, and an inspection to get done before then. %-P

Pictures of install before then I hope, but wifey just noticed that the hole in the wall is kind of drafty. :mad:

1D
 
we would very much like to have a second stove in place of our prefab fireplace. Our fireplace is over 25 years old, so we don't dare to use it. We put in one of those inserts that look like fire, but is electric. If you have it behind a fireplace screen, it looks real to a lot of folks. I really want to put in a unit, but I am having a hard time to justify it when the one stove we have heats the whole home except for the very coldest parts of the winter. Anyone have an idea what the price tag is on doing one of these transitions excluding the cost of the stove unit? One member commented on 6 hrs. But I don't know if that is one man or a crew.
 
save$ said:
we would very much like to have a second stove in place of our prefab fireplace. Our fireplace is over 25 years old, so we don't dare to use it. We put in one of those inserts that look like fire, but is electric. If you have it behind a fireplace screen, it looks real to a lot of folks. I really want to put in a unit, but I am having a hard time to justify it when the one stove we have heats the whole home except for the very coldest parts of the winter. Anyone have an idea what the price tag is on doing one of these transitions excluding the cost of the stove unit? One member commented on 6 hrs. But I don't know if that is one man or a crew.

I suspect that the "one member" could be considered a bit of an expert (or installer), and from my own personal experience I would never try to cut the fireplace apart from the inside unless you knew the secret of not having the chimney come crashing in through on top of the fireplace on you.

Having said this, I imagine all installs are different, and mine had over 25' of chimney waiting to fall in on me, so can you say heavy? :bug:

These chimneys are installed from the bottom up, and mine had zero supports installed, so by removing the fireplace the chimney came with it, but if you have full access to the chimney from above you could easily remove one section of chimney at a time quite safely, from the top of the chimney down.

To this point I have about 10 hours (one man) involved, and I am a first timer, so much of the time I'm thinking on what is the best, and safest way to do this.

If you are a DIY type person, I don't see it as much of a problem, but I've been doing most of the construction trades most of my life, and at one time or another I've been licensed in more than a few.

I'll try to put some progress photos up here, for pictures will be worth more than my rhetoric. ;-)

1D
 
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