Venting confusion

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Stegman

Feeling the Heat
Jan 4, 2011
317
Sterling, MA
I'm thoroughly confused about venting options for propane stoves. I understand direct vent, and I understand the concept behind B vent.

What I'm confused about, however, is whether B vent for gas/propane requires an exterior chimney that goes above the roof line. Most of the stuff I've seen on the internet is vague about this but seem to hint at it. Other sources - like the images below [from Regency's website] - indicate that the B vent would be a vertical run inside with horizontal vent to the outside.
 

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Per NFPA-211 para 10.4.2 "Natural draft vents for gas appliances shall terminate at an elevation
not less than 5 ft (1.53m) above the highest connected appliance outlet."
If you can meet that requirement with out going thru the roof, it will be
code compliant. Your B-Vent drawing from Regency needs additional info...
HTH
 
DAKSY said:
Per NFPA-211 para 10.4.2 "Natural draft vents for gas appliances shall terminate at an elevation
not less than 5 ft (1.53m) above the highest connected appliance outlet."
If you can meet that requirement with out going thru the roof, it will be
code compliant. Your B-Vent drawing from Regency needs additional info...
HTH

Thanks Bob.

So if I'm reading that right, it means that if you can get the B vent duct work up at least five feet from the stove, you can then go horizontal right out through the wall. Is that correct?
 
<>So if I'm reading that right, it means that if you can get the B vent duct work up at least five feet from the stove, you can then go horizontal right out through the wall. Is that correct?<>

Yep. Once you get out thru the wall you'll hafta refer to the install
manual for clearance to an unvented or vented soffit IF there is one...
 
Go direct vent and get a nice efficient seal. Uses outside air for combustion, which means a sealed firebox from the house.
Much safer overall, no spill/vent safety switches or extra wiring etc to worry about.

In canada with the wild swing in temperatures, b-vent fireplaces have trouble breathing properly especially if your house is tight, or has large exhaust fans drawing air out. I find them much more problematic as so much dust and debris gets pulled in from the house plugging up the burner venturi and draft hood.

just my .02

HTH

PS
Every b-vent fireplace i have ever encountered has been vented up through the roof (like woodstove) to promote good draft and reduce combustion gases from coming back down and into the house.
 
Good stuff, guys. I'm definitely leaning toward direct vent - we have a Jotul one in our main house now - but money might play a role. This is a cabin that doesn't get a ton of use, so I'm trying to do this as cheaply as possible. If I can score a used B vent stove for $250 or something crazy, I might have to pull the trigger.

Thanks for advice/info.
 
Ok,,, so I shopping for a gas insert for my fireplace , and I want to use my existing chimmeny. what would that be called ? Salesman recommends me getting a Contential gas insert model CDI30 or CDI 30G . Anyone have any feedback or experience on this product ? thanks
 
turbofrank said:
Ok,,, so I shopping for a gas insert for my fireplace , and I want to use my existing chimmeny. what would that be called ? Salesman recommends me getting a Contential gas insert model CDI30 or CDI 30G . Anyone have any feedback or experience on this product ? thanks

You also want a Direct Vent (DV) unit.
It will have a coaxial liner (a pair of 3" tubes)
inside your existing chimney.
Can't comment on the Continental product,
but Regency (www.regency-fire.com) is made in your country
& their units are very reliable and good looking (IMHO)...
 
Ok, so I was sold on the napoleon gas insert GDI30, up until when I asked the salesguy if I can control, or turn down the heat with the remote... Nope,,, must be done manually by removing front cover and turning valve by hand. Valor, on the other hand can be adjusted by remote. Is it worth spending the extra bucks for this option, will you reallly save and see a difference in your propane heating bill ?
 
Personally, I wouldn't want one with the "Turn Down" capability. The ones I've
seen all have noisy "stepper motors" to give you that option. As far as saving
fuel, ANY TIME the burner is on it will cost you something. Even the pilot flame
costs SOMETHING.
I prefer an on/off thermostat like the Skytech 3001, which lets you burn fuel
ONLY when you want heat. When it gets to temperature, the burner shuts down.
IPI units will even save you by allowing the pilot to go out unless the burner is on...
YMMV
 
The regency gives you the modulating valve with no noise on their new L390 and HZI390 models with IPI and thermostatic remote control. Saves a lot when on propane and they are both DV units with the biggest heat exchangers i have seen in a unit since regency in the early 90's. Slam dunk in my opinion and well worth the money..... not to mention it will last forever.
 
Do you have a link for their new models? , haven't see them on their site. This is a insert correct ? Also, My measurments are presently Height 21 1/2 , width 27 1/2 , depth 28 . I was wondering if its worth to break up the opening to make it bigger so a bigger unit can fit. If i go with a large insert , doesn't mean it will heat more if the B.T.U 's numbers are the same as a medium insert. It will be in my basement of 380 sq. ft but I want to get some heat in my main floor opening with stairs. I will be using it a second heating option along with electric baseboards. Any suggestions ? Leave the opening as is , or go bigger ?
 
Great looking unit. Now, should I leave the opening as is , or Break off some brick and go with a bigger unit . ( I examined my fireplace and noticed that a layer of brick was added at one point , some work is required , but it can be removed and the opening will be bigger ).
 
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