Venting

[Darren111]

Ok, so the eco65 is sitting in the kitchen awaiting floor pads and vent kit which are due in tomorrow. Now I'm second guessing myself on the install.

I've read and re-read my manual and read and re-read many posts here and elsewhere but I want to make sure I have this right.

I'm going with 4" vent. Will be about 2 feet from stove out through exterior wall(not sure the exact distances from stove to wall as that will depend on outside wall brackets for the verticle), clean out tee and 3 feet of verticle with a 90° elbow then a 45° elbow with a termination cap.

Questions are- 1. Is that enough verticle? And 2. I live in a very windy area and am worried about backdraft, should I have something besides the termination cap on the end of the pipe?

I'm pretty sure it's enough verticle for manufacturer specs, but, in the real world is it enough? I could easily add another foot or two if it would make the stove run better.

Opinions, advice would be greatly appreciated. I don't wanna mess this up and can't afford a pro installer.

Thanks in advance.

Edit- the pic shows how I want to do it. The warning says I should be ok, 3 feet verticle vs. 2 feet horizontal, but the evl chart doesn't support that...

 

[heat seeker]

I would go with a vertical rise inside, so if you change stoves, you won't have to worry about the hieght of the opening in the wall matching the new stove.

An OAK will compensate for wind, at least in my case. My stove is on the windward wall, and we get lots of high winds, and no problem yet. The stove is a sort of sealed system with an OAK in place, and pressure changes in the house have no effect on the stove.

My install is straight out from the stove and through the wall. No rise to speak of. Normal end cap.

 

[Darren111]

Yeah, my vent will be on the windiest side of the house. For simplicity and the fact I'm not planning on changing stoves in the near future straight out the wall should do. I'm still on the fence about an OAK. I'm thinking of a 90° elbow down to the basement (which isn't particularly air tight lol).

So many numbers got my head reeling. Plus first timer here so really not sure of any of it...

 

[bogieb]

+10 on the inside rise - my whole main floor stove set up sucks because I direct vented my first stove (that lived for 3 very short burns - aaagghhh). Now I have two 45's and somewhere between 10 & 14" rise (hard to tell because there is also a slope - not straight up - but there is a 12" section between the two 45's). I also have an OAK. It drafts well for me but the Hastings would belch a bit of smoke out the door if there was a power glitch even though it was hooked up to a UPS. Haven't tested the P43 that took the Hasting's place, but would not be surprised if it does the same.

I do have an OAK set up, so that might help my set up. Also is on the wind side - no issues there either.

 

[Darren111]

Looking like I might have to drill another hole outside for an OAK. Which is probably better in the long run anyway.

Good stuff here guys, thanks a lot.

 

[heat seeker]

Another bonus to the OAK is when we lose power, no visible smoke gets in the house. We get a bit of smoke smell, but not much.

 

[Darren111]

Vent kit came in today. Little disappointed, 4" vent kit came with a 3" stove adapter :-( Still no sign of the floor pads I ordered.

 

[Gabor129]

The Eco 65 has a 3" exhaust? I have the p45 which is essentially Eco 45, I did a 4' inside rise with OAK, also 4' outside rise. Had to make my own wall bracket for it but it was no big deal! The exhaust is on the windy side of the house, no problems, even with power out!

 

[Darren111]

The 65 has 4" exhaust. After talking to quite a few people and reading on here I'm going to have 18" out through wall thimble with a 5 ' rise. No OAK for now. I know its more than it needs to be but we get quite a few power outages during the winter and this setup should reduce the chance of smoke in the house. With the vent kit I bought I only need to buy one extra 18" length of pipe. Plus that 18" pipe will facilitate 1 piece through the wall instead of having a joint either inside the thimble or just as it exits exterior wall, which would make me feel alot better.

Decided to have a professional install and wett inspect at the same time. For an extra 450 bucks it saves me the trouble. It's 150 bucks around here just for a wett inspection anyway.