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Vermont Castings Merrimack

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by daveydog, Jul 31, 2010.

  1. micaaronfl

    micaaronfl Member

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    sorry im not a handy person am im looking at the install manual, looks like its the top part of merrimack? is there a plate that needs to come off to get to the screw? plus the fan is only on when the stove is warm so im afraid to hard this thing when im tinkering with a fire burning.

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  2. daryl

    daryl Feeling the Heat

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    reostat is the fan speed control bottom left side of unit.
  3. micaaronfl

    micaaronfl Member

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    lt me take a look again tonight i didnt see a screw when i pulled the cover plate off.
  4. daryl

    daryl Feeling the Heat

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    You have to pull out the speed control,I think there are 2 screws that hold it to the castings in a sheet metal frame, then there is a large nut under the knob that holds it to the sheet metal frame take that off then you will find the adj. screw.
  5. micaaronfl

    micaaronfl Member

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    thanks resiburner
  6. obrien040362

    obrien040362 New Member

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    Guyro5

    Nice installation better than my "professional job". I wish i would of done it myself and used straight double wall duct (less build up). Hindsight is 20/20.

    When you installed you unit did you remove the burn tubes and baffle so that you could screw the flue to the firebox from the inside of the firebox? That is how mind was installed which didn't seem right.

    Looking ahead to spring, I plan on sweeping the flue myself and still researching the procedure. I believe you need to remove the burn tubes and baffle, close the doors to control dust and sweep for the exterior. Anyone wish to comment on the procedure or the crazyness of DIY.
  7. Clarks ACE Hardware

    Clarks ACE Hardware Member

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    Nice looking insert there, Guyro 5.

    We've sold several of these units this year. Everyone is happy so far :)
  8. guyro5

    guyro5 New Member

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    Thanks for the compliments guys.

    Musky, yes I connected it from inside. It's actually designed so you can do it that way, which was nice because I believe it would be a real pain to try to do it from outside of the insert because it would have to be so far back into the masonry fireplace that you really wouldn't have room to work. And the flexible liner, which is what I used, isn't as flexible as you would think. Working from inside the insert is the way they recommend unless for some reason you cant.

    I'm planning on cleaning mine the same way as you, unless someone had a better idea. If I remember right you only have to remove one burn tube to get the baffle out, but I'll have to check on that when I get home tonight. The baffle just slides right out after the burn tube's removed. Also, there is a crossbar inside the flue connector that keeps a brush from going all the way down into the insert and accidentally breaking the baffle if you haven't removed it. I think it needs to be removed for cleaning though, otherwise any soot and creosote would just land on top of the baffle and be a fire hazard. That crossbar also means, as you stated, the brushing would have to be done from the exterior.
  9. guyro5

    guyro5 New Member

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    I just looked and I honestly can't remember how many tubes I had to remove to get that baffle out. I checked the manual and it says to remove the air wash manifold, then if you need to to remove the air tubes to get the baffle out. I do know I didn't have to take all the tubes out. I really think it was just the one closest to the front of the insert, right behind the air wash manifold. The manifold was pretty easy to remove too.
  10. Clarks ACE Hardware

    Clarks ACE Hardware Member

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    You can just remove the 2 7/16" hex bolts on the front airwash deflector and slide the baffle out from there without removing any of the tubes.
  11. micaaronfl

    micaaronfl Member

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    need a quick response on this one. is itgood to insulate the entire merrimack? top, back, and sides? or just the top?
  12. Clarks ACE Hardware

    Clarks ACE Hardware Member

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    Just the top is fine. The main purpose for this is to prevent any draft/cool air coming into the living space from air space between your terra-cotta and SS liner.

    If you have extra cer-wool it would be best used wrapping the liner with it if you haven't already.
  13. micaaronfl

    micaaronfl Member

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    ok thanks the installer may come out to insulate it and i wanted to see if putting it on the sides would be a benefit.
  14. micaaronfl

    micaaronfl Member

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    is a block off plate and insulation overkill? my installer mentioned he would like to do both?
  15. BrowningBAR

    BrowningBAR Minister of Fire

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    If you have a good installer, they usually have a reason for recommending certain things. You can't go wrong with overkill in this case, though. Nothing bad will happen from doing both.
  16. micaaronfl

    micaaronfl Member

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    ok thanks i just didnt want to damage the unit
  17. Joseymack

    Joseymack Member

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    So my VC Merrimack is burning rather nicely these days... Just a few questions and comments.
    - Even when the air vent is closed all the way to the right it seems there is alot of flames that don;t quite die down. is this normal...?
    - My glass has not yet sooted up on me. Ithas been a beautiful flame since day 1.... nice
    - Kinda messy to clean without an ashpan. I am not used to this. TIPs? I bought an ash vaccuum but the fire pretty much needs to be dead in order to use the damn thing
    - Fan takes a while to come on sometimes about 30-40 minutes, even when the system seems plenty hot?
    - overall so far so good
  18. micaaronfl

    micaaronfl Member

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    - Even when the air vent is closed all the way to the right it seems there is alot of flames that don;t quite die down. is this normal…?
    same thing here.

    - Fan takes a while to come on sometimes about 30-40 minutes, even when the system seems plenty hot?
    my fan takes at least an hour to go on, usually an hour and a half. the installers have been out here twice to look at it. they are coming out again soon to replace the thermal switch and i have also askef for them to install a block off plate or installation right above the unit. im thinking that it will keep the heat in and hopefully trigger the switch to go on sooner.
  19. Clarks ACE Hardware

    Clarks ACE Hardware Member

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    Guys,

    I just received word that VC is investigating about 5 instances of this exact scenario on the Merrimack.

    One of my customer's has actually been having some trouble turning his down, but he also has a 5.5" x 35' liner so we have been looking into that being the root cause. Needless to say, he's very happy with the insert and is still getting great burn times out of it.

    Contact your local VC dealer and have them forward your case to John Davidson with MHSC.

    Regarding your snap switch... Keep in mind that you have over 500 lbs of cast iron to heat up. The freestanding VC's take over an hour for the switch to kick over. Sounds normal IMHO.
  20. Joseymack

    Joseymack Member

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    I I forgot to mntion, my burntimes are 12hours plus.... I leave to work at 5am and got hme last night around 8pm. Still have plenty of coals.
    I load it up at might turn it down and go to bed. i wake up to a great hot coal pit.... So far that is an A+
  21. micaaronfl

    micaaronfl Member

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    I do have the .pdf of the updated manual that shows the problem with the thermal switch either being pushed upward or screws on backwards. It didnt work for me.

    if anyone wants it PM me your email.
  22. tamms_1965

    tamms_1965 New Member

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    Hi all,
    I stumbled across this sight while investigating different inserts. We have been in our "new" old house (original part circa 1849) for almost a month now and have had the local chimney guy in for inspections and quotes. The original plan was to convert two of the smaller fireplaces to ventless gas logs (I am one of those that actually love them....have had four sets in three different homes). One of these is inoperable for wood and the other has a new stainless steel liner in it set up for a wood insert (never used). The guy came out and inspected them and a third large one in the dining room to see if it was safe for woodburning (come to find out it also has a never used top of the line ss liner set up for an insert). He suggested we think about an insert to cut down on our oil bill (we have a 3900+ sf farmhouse that has a heat pump and oil-fired boiler, but house it pretty tight considering). So I set off on my mission.

    I am a Direct Buy member and as previously mentioned on this thread, they carry this insert so my cost of the insert and Exeter surround with taxes, delivery/handling, etc. would be $2200 (this does not include a liner or how much my chimney guy will charge to install). After reading all the info on here, I think I'm going to give it a go. My question is does it matter that I am not using their liner?
  23. Don2222

    Don2222 Minister of Fire

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    Hello

    Nice video
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TW6bgkRrelM

    Vermont Casting Stoves do hold their value over the years.

    I bought a consolidated Dutchwest wood/coal stove on sale for $1060 brand new and sold it 19 years later for $400 !!


    Pic of Montpelier from video below.

    Attached Files:

  24. tamms_1965

    tamms_1965 New Member

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    Nice video:)
  25. guyro5

    guyro5 New Member

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    Tamms - as long as you know your liner is stainless steel and not aluminum, and as long as its the right size for your insert(6" in the case of the Merrimack ), then it really doesn't matter where it was bought or what brand it is. Hope this answers your question.

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