Vertical OAK run...searched but I have a different idea

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ckarotka

Minister of Fire
Sep 21, 2009
641
Northwest PA on the lake
Could I run my OAK out the back of the 13 to a 90 then straight up to the attic about 11ft. To help with backdraft I would install a check valve and maybe a trap (like under the sink) in the attic to cause some turbulence, or slow things down if the cold air from the attic rushes down the pipe. Also I was considering a ball valve about eye level behind the stove to regulate airflow in the event of an overfire or too much draft on (rare for me) really cold days. If I can find a ball valve that would not downsize the pipe and keep the full 3" until it starts to close.

I would like to use black PVC for most of it and a small piece of flex of aluminum for the part off the stove. It would be approx 18-20" from the flue which is single wall. Actually when I think about more I could move it even further into the corner and paint it to match the wall color.

All this stems from the stove being central in the home and to get to fresh air would be very difficult, the place outside it would go would be right next to the front door steps. Plus the work area in the basement is a finished area with existing furnace duct work that would have to be removed, something I don't want to do, only if I can't go vertical. I thought the fresh air from the ridge vent would work just the same.
 
It would be better to put a P trap sag right at the stove. The run will need to be insulated mainly because it will sweat when drawing in cold air, and secondly, you don't want to heat the air in the pipe and have it reverse draft. A positive shutoff is a good idea.
 
Why do you think you need to do it at all? Is your house unusually tight? Is your stove draft insufficient? Rick
 
No not that tight it just seems to lack some draft during warmer temps around 30+F. By opening a window it seems to help a little. If the OAK would fix this issue it would be cheaper than a length of pipe and wouldn't create a too strong draft when the temps fall again. I think? My normal temps here this month is 33.
Colder Jan and Feb. Then warmer in Mar. So for three out of five months I get a 30F avg. Plus all the crazy temp changes from living south of a lake. Until it freezes the weather patterns are horrible.
 
I had a vertical OAK run for my basement install and couldn't control the cold air from pushing into my stove. I tried a big U and damper in the line but it still seemed too strong and cooled off the stove prematurely. My stove burns better without it.
 
I can't see the outside air kit helping more than opening a window.
When my insert cools off, most times I do have to open a window and burn some newspaper to get things moving the right way.
 
I have another thread about the draft issue and someone thought maybe an OAK might help. I thought I would look into what it would take to add one and this was the best idea I had for one right now. I should just buy another length of pipe because it would by a ten minute install. The pipe I have is over four year old triple wall and the place I bought it from no longer carries it and would have to order it, I don't remember the make. I did my original install of a Quad before finding this site. The Quad ran fine just small, the 13 is twice as big believe it or not and I would assume it would require more draft. My burn times I think suffer a bit because I leave the primary open more than I would like for a long burn. This is the only reason I'm looking into draft issues, I have no odor or smoke in the house and have no trouble starting a fire. The stove is great, just trying to get all I can from her.
 
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