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Vogelzang Ponderosa

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by Huntindog1, Oct 21, 2012.

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  1. diyrye

    diyrye New Member

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    I just got a chance to check out the "boost"/"b" control. It opens an intake underneath the stove in the very back of the stove as seen in the first picture.

    http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/...163-0000000C6F3C3D02.jpg&evt=user_media_share

    Picture two shows it then travels up a passage on the outside of the stove, welded to it, between the stove and the heat shield. Then at approx secondary burn tube height it goes into an opening in the back of the stove into a channel full of holes that runs parrallel to the secondary burn tubes.

    http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/...163-0000000C7B7821AE.jpg&evt=user_media_share

    Picture 3 shows right below the back tube a black piece running across full of holes. I also noticed the back/6th secondary burner didn't seem to have any holes in it?

    http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/...163-0000000C89A7C795.jpg&evt=user_media_share

    That being said, what would be the best function for the "boost" control. Seems like it would provide extra air the secondaries. It says to always close it and adjust the primary and then to readjust the boost after?

    I'm just curious, does anyone else have a ponderosa? It seems like I'm the first one, also the prices have jumped up on them and they just now showed up at home depot.

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  2. clemsonfor

    clemsonfor Minister of Fire

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    Northern tool ships to stores for free if you have one within an hour or so of you, just throwing that out.

    I just bought a highlander(waiting on it to arrive).
  3. Pallet Pete

    Pallet Pete Guest

    I am glad to see that there stoves are getting better ! That is a massive improvement over our old Durango piece of crap. It's about time they made a safer stove. Looks good !

    Pete

    In case you can't tell I am in shock lol.
  4. Huntindog1

    Huntindog1 Minister of Fire

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    Here is an answer I got from Vogelzang today:

    The high burn control is basically an assist to deliver the proper amount of air at high burn. Your stove (The Performer) does not need the assist as it has a smaller firebox.

    The Ponderosa is designed with the option to hook up to outside air. For that reason all of the air intakes are ducted to the pedestal base. The box you see under the front door of the stove is part of the air intake system.
  5. Huntindog1

    Huntindog1 Minister of Fire

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    I have never seen holes drilled like the 5th tube back.

    Looks like the high burn air may come in from that channel in the back with all the holes drilled.

    [​IMG]
  6. diyrye

    diyrye New Member

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    Huntindog: That's way easier seeing the pic without clicking a link.. I have yet to be able to do that on my iPhone. Instead I have to send the pic to photobucket and attach a link. But yeah the high burner air comes through the holes in that channel in the back. I checked with insence like begreen suggested.
  7. Huntindog1

    Huntindog1 Minister of Fire

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    I did a copy paste as long as the pic file size isnt to big then you have to upload it.
  8. corey21

    corey21 Minister of Fire

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    This is nice looking stove that is for sure.
  9. diyrye

    diyrye New Member

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    So I got the stove burning hotter today jut to get the rest of the paint and everything to quit smoking. It's 80 degrees in the basement with the outside door open. But now at least it will be ready for the 30 degree temps they are calling for next week with the remains of the hurricane coming. If the power goes out, we have no worries. Well heat wise.. The freezer might be a different story...

    I'm just guessing it's normal for the secondary burn tubes to glow red? Flue temp is only around 325 right now but it's kicking heat. Now to try and get it circulating a bit.
  10. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Likewise. We won't know for a few seasons how they stand up, but I hope they have a winner.
  11. precaud

    precaud Minister of Fire

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    It may look like that, but in fact, the closer the holes are to the draft source, the more air will be drawn out of them. So the most air will come out of the front burn tubes unless you have a leak in the baffle.

    My Quad 2100M has an almost identical secondary setup, and very little air comes out of the holes at the very back. In fact, sometimes smoke is actually pulled INTO them and they clog up fairly quickly.
  12. Todd

    Todd Minister of Fire

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    Sounds like PE's EBT. Give it a little boost air at higher burn rates to keep it clean. That's one of the problems with larger non cat fire boxes, they need more air to keep the fire burning clean to pass the EPA test.
    Huntindog1 likes this.
  13. diyrye

    diyrye New Member

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    We are ready for the hurricane. Well at least duke is. Only took a day for him to find the heat ha. So far the stove is working great, I put in two 8-10" rounds 20"+ long of English walnut, its 88 downstairs and 75 upstairs with the stove only at 325. But it's only 50 outside. Just getting things rolling before the storm. I got a truckload of wood piled outside the door 10' from stove covered with a tarp, 40 gallons of drinking water, and a fresh half pig to cook on the stove If the power goes out and it thaws! Oh and plenty of beer to last the storm.. Bring it on!

    http://s106.photobucket.com/albums/...787-0000013E35762E7F.jpg&evt=user_media_share
  14. DexterDay

    DexterDay Guest

    The 5th tube is still connected to the same manifold system. If I had to guess, the Very Back portion (not even a tube) is where the Boost air comes from. It appears like it could be separated from the regular secondary system.

    Looks to be a solid unit that should perform well and give the operator some decent adjustment
  15. liplifter

    liplifter New Member

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    I have a ponderosa installed 2 weeks ago and the top already has a heat sink in it.Really disappointed.Where do they get the advertised 14 hr burn times ?packed to the gills with osage or ash no longer than 6 and thats on "slow burn".no reply from mfg. yet
  16. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Welcome. What do you mean by "heat sink"? Do you have the boost air completely shut off?
  17. diyrye

    diyrye New Member

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    I'm guessing you mean the top sunk down in? I find with mine if I pack it with wood and even have the air controls both shut it can still overheat rather quickly if you don't keep the blower on. It doesn't seem as air tight as it should be. I'm concerned if I really have it cranking and power goes out I think the stove would be orange in a minute or two without the blower. Mine will keep coals for 12+ hrs especially if I shovel ash onto the top of them if I want to just fire it back up later and house is already warm enough.
  18. liplifter

    liplifter New Member

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    I dont think it's possible to overheat mine but yes the top is warped and i guess heat sink is the wrong term.I cant get the thrmo on the pipe over 350 and its low on the pipe.I would have to leave the door cracked to get it 400 or higher.
  19. diyrye

    diyrye New Member

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    Are you sure your thermometer Is good? Mine I have about 12" from top of stove and even with everything all closed and blower on I can hit 400 no prob, with both vents open and blower on it would probably bury the needle in the redzone. To overheat and warp the stove usually has to be glowing
  20. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Does sound like a faulty thermometer might be involved here. Have you checked your baffle boards to be sure they are properly in place, also checking the insulation blanket?
  21. joecool85

    joecool85 Minister of Fire

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    Is it me or are there no holes in that rear tube>?
  22. liplifter

    liplifter New Member

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    good thermos have 3 stoves betwen house ,shop and cabin.burns better if I constantly clean out front vent just inside door frame but it defineatly won't "run you out".
  23. diyrye

    diyrye New Member

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  24. DexterDay

    DexterDay Guest

    When was your wood Cut/Split/ and Stacked?

    Getting above 350 on the Pipe is pretty hot? No? Thats 700° flue temp?

    350 on the stove top and I would be worried. But 350° stove pipe temp?

    But... you should still be able to get it above 400° without opening the door.

    The 14 hr burn times are an exaggerated time. Thats a "usable heat" under best case scenarios (coals is a very long portion of the burn cycle) a 14 hr flame would be near impossible. Unless you have the Alien technology that is BKK :)


    So your 6 hrs is pretty standard burn time. Should and could be longer, but air setting, and proper fuel play a big part.
  25. diyrye

    diyrye New Member

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    Is this with or without the blower on? When I fire mine up or while fairly cool with just coals, I turn the blower off because it allows more heat to be retained in the stove to get it going, but you must remember to turn it back on ASAP because it will overheat. I went out to feed chickens once after a morning reload and I shut the blower off an opened the primary air intake (left knob in) and came back in to the stove top glowing and pipe temp around 700 in just a few minutes. I shut everything down and put a highspeed fan blowing on stove to cool it and climbed to the roof to check chimney liner, meanwhile the thin whisps of burnt creosote were comin out of the chimney. So I burnt the liner clean after a months use... Oops and the stove top did droop about 1/8" in middle. This was the first time I loaded the stove with a fresh batch of super dry oak, I should have known not to walk away... Luckily I didn't have my cast iron chicken humidifier on it at the time or things woulda been more ugly!

    Once the stove is loaded and going well I always close the intake. Both of them or you must sit and watch that it doesn't overheat. I never use the secondary. I would have the top glowing I think if I ever had it open very long.

    I just turned the blower off and in 23 seconds the pipe temp went up 50 degrees from simmering at 250 to 300. This stove won't put out the heat without the blower before it turns into a pile of molten steel on your floor I guess is what I'm trying to say. And if you put a trivet and or kettle ontop for humidity, I would put it back towards the stovepipe where the raised lip is that will provide more support just in case.



    I NEVER EVER leave the house without both air controls completely shut (both handles pulled out)
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