Post in 'DIY and General non-hearth advice' started by JustWood, Jun 30, 2008.
Is it made from virgin or recycled oil ? Anyone know.
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The private label motor oils the chains sell are all made with virgin dinosaur wine by major refiners. When I was with Mobil we canned the oil for K-Mart and others. I asked a chemist at one of the lube plants the difference between our labeled oil and the private labels in the box stores and he said nothing but that a trace element is added so they can trace it if engines start locking up.
Quaker State and Warren are probably bottling Wal-Mart's. As long it is API spec it is the same stuff as any other. No matter what they say on TV.
I have an old mower that consumes vast quantities of oil. In the quest for cheap oil I found that the walmart supertech was the cheapest API rated oil per volume. Cheaper than even diesel oil. I did find cheaper oil labeled as non-detergent sae30 but it also claimed to be only suitable for engines made prior to 1930!
They all smoke the same.
PS, only mobile1 full synthetic in the good gas engines. Delo 400 in the diesel.
+1 on the Mobil synthetic on newer cars. That is what most of the Honda buffs I've spoken to recommended and that is what was put in the wife's car after the 7500 mile break in on Dino Oil.
This whole break in thing for syn is a thing of the past. Most manufacturers that use it put it in straight away. Engys that I have talked to say it was a concern with seals on older vehicles but not so much today.
My wife's car came straight from the factory with syn.
Yes, the factory fill on the vette's has been the mobile 1 for quite some time. Labeled right on the coil cap so you don't forget.
You know that most vehicles are delivered with dino oil and since it is (or should be) a short change anyway I say use the dino. Then switch to syn after you feel good.
Oh and I didn't switch to sythetic until about 40000, or was it 60000, miles on my truck. The next couple of oil changes (at 3000 per my owner's manual)were VERY dark. This indicates to me that the synthetic oil does indeed do a better job of cleaning. No leaks and no oil consumption on my old chevy 350 after 169000 miles.
So there's good synthetic oil, good engine oil, and then cheap oil for less important appplications. Supertech walmart oil is in my garage for the last one.
Many new cars are coming through with synthetic requirements. My father was groaning about doing an oil change on Mom's new ML 350 Benz and I told him that if you can afford premium fuel, you can afford synthetic oil, right? ;-) I tried to talk 'em out of it (the SUV), but...
The internal parts on many new engines are getting hot enough to cook dino oil and the long term results will not be pretty. I have switched most of our cars to syn for the longer change intervals. I keep meaning to do an oil analysis to see how things are doing, but I am pushing things out to 10K. Running the engine on CNG really helps keep it clean, too.
I haven't figured out the attraction of syn blends as the mineral oil seems to be a contaminant, IMHO. I'm using NAPA full synthetic, it's albout 1/3 less than Mobil 1.
I use "Premium" oils, Castrol and the like, in my cars for the first 100,000, but never synthetic. Why, better mileage? I get 200,000 miles on an engine just keeping the dyno oil and filter changed at least every 7500 miles. So, I've never seen any reason to pay the high price of synthetics...but the Walmart Super Tech synthetic looks tempting.
Agreed the higher price is a waste on many cars these days, but some are REQUIRING it due to internal design. If your manual specs synthetic, it isn't because the manufacturer owns an oil refinery.
The benefit to synthetic is the extended drain intervals that it can allow. Trucks and other large engines can hold many gallons of oil and routinely changing it every X miles can cost hundreds of dollars. Using synthetic oil and periodic oil analysis allows the savvy fleet owner to only change oil when it is necessary. Since the analysis costs about $30 and an oil change in a car runs about the same amount, it really isn't worth it for the average car owner.
I drive about 30,000 miles a year and used to change my oil every 3000 miles. That was getting expensive and I decided to switch to synthetic. I plan on running it about 7500 and then doing an analysis. I suspect that I will be able to run 15,000 miles, but time will tell. The two Roadies have 160,000 and 248,000 miles on them and only burn about a quart every 5-7000 miles and these were "broken in" with dino oil. This is good evidence that regular oil changes will make a car last, but synthetic claims to have even less wear.
Mobil 1 seems to have the longest track record and is usually the one that the others compare themselves to. At one time, they claimed that you could take apart an engine run on M1 after 100k and everything would measure within tolerance for new. That's a pretty bold claim, but there's no mistaking that synthetic has much better tolerance to extreme temperatures. Most oil is smoking at 300F, but synthetic is generally good to 500F. In an air cooled engine like a motorcycle, this can be a huge safety margin. Most motor oils turn to molasses at very low temperatures, but synthetic still pours at -40. I have even heard that the API had to create a new category (0W) because it is so much better than 5W oil at low temperatures. Shoot me if I'm exaggerating, but the stuff IS better under extreme conditions.
BTW, syn vs. dino is always a hot debate among the gearheads...
Sorry to go OT, Lee. I know several mechanics that swear by Wal-mart oil and coolant. They don't make it, they just have someone bottle it up and stick their name on it. I'll ask the gearheads if they know who makes it.
I use Amsoil in my truck, car, and motorcycle. They claim 1 year or 25K with their oil and filter. Anyone else using this brand?
That was a huge marketing coup for Mobil when GM started using it for the factory fill in the Vettes. Lotta people couldn't afford a Vette but if they skipped a few meals they could afford a crankcase full of Mobil 1.
Back in the '70s I leased the over the road trucks to Pizza Inn. Their equipment manager kept bugging me about changing to Mobil 1 in the trucks when it came out. I told him RPM Delo was doing just fine and at the fifty cents a quart we paid for it would keep doing fine.
Unknown to us he drained one of the trucks and filled it with Mobil 1 and took off from Dallas to Houston. Coming back out of Houston he broke a oil line and glossed over the Interstate with 14 gallons of that expensive elixir. When the mechanic came out to fix it he had him fill it back up with Delo. And we never heard about M1 again.
Wow, are you saying the crankcase holds 14 gallons? Why would that much be needed, heat dissipation? That's as much as some small cars have for a gas tank.
before I came off the road I used shell Rotela T in my 379 cat, 15 speed, 48" mid roof.
In my cars I use the full synthetic walmart stuff been working fine so far.
I guess if the mfr specs syn, then use it. I've always used dino at sale prices, wherever cheapest, regardless of brand, mix brands, etc., and since 1986 have never had to add oil between changes. Change oil/filter myself every 5000. Last car we sold had 238,000 miles on it; mine now has 197,000. The most I've ever been down at the end of 5000 miles is about 1/2 quart. Couple years ago at an auction picked up 55 gal drum of name brand 10W-30 at $0.50 qt; still using, but do switch to 5W-30 in winter.
Maybe not consistent thinking, but I do use syn in any small engines I may need to run in the winter; 0W-30: generator and wood splitter.
Walmart 30W is my "standard" for yard equipment, all air cooled, but I admit that this is an application where synthetic could pay a dividend. I don't use Walmart in my cars;/truck.
To its credit Walmart 30W has served me well in an 18 HP B&S;Twin air cooled that was purchased in 1993 and has about 1,200 hours on it. It does burn a little oil, nothing I can see coming out the exhaust, but I do add a 2-3 oz after about 10 hours use, full throttle.
Yes I use Amsoil in all the vehicles I service. I am starting to go once a year or 15k whichever comes first. I use an Amsoil EAO filter also,very good oil,expensive but good. If you are interested in going the full 25k you should use oil analysis to keep an eye on things.
Amsoil is great oil but for the premium price over regular synthetics and according to independent tests it's not any better than garden variety synthetics.
Filters it's the same way.
Great Filter Review Site
It was an 855 cubic inch Cummins 250 diesel. If the old memory is still any good the crankcases held around eleven gallons and the Luberfiner filter and lines held another two or three.
Put up some uoa's of side by side comparisons then we'll talk turkey. I am not taking the word of some supposed expert on a VW forum or North Texas Prelude forum.
Great site! That's all I needed; another online time sink... :roll:
I've got an article somewhere bookmarked on a great review by a professional racing association that did some testing. I'll see if I can dig it up.
Amsoil now has a 35,000 mile oil change, or one year I have been doing it for 6 years in my 99 ranger, barely burns any oil and still running strong a 250k miles. I converted to it at 100k, I drive 200-400 miles a week to work so only having to change oil and filter once a year is great. the price is worth it for the oil drain interval for me.
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