Wall Shield, how far off the top of the hearth floor?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

NVHunter

Feeling the Heat
Nov 3, 2013
292
Reno, NV
Ok, I searched for the answer to this and I couldn't find it.

How high up does the bottom of a wall shield need to be from the hearth top? I know it needs the 1" air gap and open on the top and bottom to allow air movement, just curious if there is a set number the bottom of the wall shield needs to be above the top of the hearth the stove sits on. 1", 2" 3"? Is there a set number?

That being said, how high above the stove top does the shield need to go after it passes the top of the stove? Or is this personal preference once its passed the top of the stove?

Thanks
 
At least 1" air gap at the bottom, above the hearth. Height above the stove top is sometimes given in the manual. Usually around 6", or higher if also shielding the stove pipe.
 
It depends if single or dual wall connected to the flue and how far off the wall it is. On the bottom a few inches space to let air in behind it and open on the top fore the hotter air to get out.
 
Ok, I was planning on 3" on the bottom and 4" from the ceiling. The wall shield will be the standard 1" air gap from the combustible wall to the Durock panel. I'm going to then mortar natural stone ledgestone panels to the Durock. Drawing up the plans now to get the permit from the county building department.

Double wall will be used, and it will be 8" to the combustible wall, about 5.25" to the non-combustible wall shield. This will only be for the height of an elbow as I'm going to use 2, 15 degree ultrablack ICC stove pipe elbows to offset the stove 4".

Should be good right? I know the building department has final say, just picking brains here.

Thanks
 
Last edited:
What stove do you want to install? Will it be installed with minimum clearances or will the wall shield be needed to reduce clearances? Does the stove manual allow the installation of a wall shield to reduce clearances?

Another point: How to you want to secure the Durock panels to the wall? Ledgestone + Durock will be quite some weight I think.
 
Ideal Steel is the stove. I guess I'm being OVERLY protective as the stove will already have a rear shield on it allowing a rear clearance of 6". The stove will actually be 10" from the combistible wall.

I want to have the ledgestone behind it for looks and thought, why not make it into a wall shield while I'm at it for extra piece of mind. I don't have to do it, just extra I guess.

I could do just the height and plus 6" of the stove to cut down on weight. These panels are only 3/4" thick so they're not too heavy. About 7.3 lbs per square foot. The area I'd be installin the panels would be less than 40 square feet = about 300lbs or so
 
Ok, I was planning on 3" on the bottom and 4" from the ceiling. The wall shield will be the standard 1" air gap from the combustible wall to the Durock panel. I'm going to then mortar natural stone ledgestone panels to the Durock. Drawing up the plans now to get the permit from the county building department.

Double wall will be used, and it will be 8" to the combustible wall, about 5.25" to the non-combustible wall shield. This will only be for the height of an elbow as I'm going to use 2, 15 degree ultrablack ICC stove pipe elbows to offset the stove 4".

Should be good right? I know the building department has final say, just picking brains here.

Thanks

A quick way to achieve the 1" gap on a solid base is to take a sheet of Durock and snap score off 3" wide strips off of the long 60" dimension. Double up these 60" strips and screw them to the studs to act as firing strips to support the wall shield. For a nice look you can take the stone down to the hearth at each of these firring strip legs. As long as there is a reasonable opening between these stone "feet", say 12", the wall cavity behind the shield will get enough ventilation.
 
Last edited:
That was my idea. Use 3" strips of durock, doubled for the 1" gap and do that to secure the 3'x5' panels of Durock for the shield. Then mortar the ledgerstone on. I'll attach a drawing later and show what my plan looks like.
 
Why not just trust all the testing that was done by woodstock? You already exceed the miniumum. It would be so much easier to attach the stone to a solid wall, and there is no chance of the weight pulling it over.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Grisu
Webby I think your right. The more I think about it the more of a pain it will be to put in an extra wall shield. I think I'll just throw the ledgerstone on the wall and call it good.

I definitely trust Woodstock and their testing. Just being overly protective I guess.
 
Webby I think your right. The more I think about it the more of a pain it will be to put in an extra wall shield. I think I'll just throw the ledgerstone on the wall and call it good.

I definitely trust Woodstock and their testing. Just being overly protective I guess.
There's nothing wrong with taking extra precautions. But I think allowing more than the minimum is gonna be good enough.
 
Last edited:
Yes. Not needed when meeting or exceeding mtg specs. I figured you just wanted extra protection.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.