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Was This Properly Done?

Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by bigblulbz, Jan 30, 2013.

  1. bigblulbz

    bigblulbz New Member

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    image.jpg

    I don't think it's wron but I certainly think it could be better. Once it goes through the wall there is another T that sends it up above the roof. If putting a 90 here helps the draft, along with being properly sized, that is what I'll put here when done over.

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  2. bigblulbz

    bigblulbz New Member

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    Anyone?
  3. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Seems like some money was wasted with the extra class A tee. It's redundant. Is the single-wall connector >18" away from the wall?
  4. bigblulbz

    bigblulbz New Member

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    18" off fire protecting barrier 19" off finished wall. I don't mind putting a 90 there even if it makes cleaning a bit more involved. If you e seen the in stall in person you'd scratch your head a bit. I talked to Coaly last weeken complain about loading her up & not really having anything come morning. Pipe coming off the back is 6" but the T out is 8". Inside the T is a bit deformed so I figure overfired over the years probably could use a freshen up. There is a stone hearth and wall in the works, but I want the pipe correct. Do they make a 90 degree claw A for that section?
  5. A1Stoves.com

    A1Stoves.com Minister of Fire

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    no, they dont make 90*s in class a pipe.

    what is the ceiling clearance??? seems it would be close for s/w pipe
  6. tsquini

    tsquini Minister of Fire

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    I'm suspicious of this whole set up. The clearance from the ceiling seems tight. I have a double line pipe inside and I need a minimum of 8" from a combustible wall. Secondly, Using pavers to support the pipe or to dissipate heat throws up a red flag. Lastly, I can not tell from the photo angle. It looks like the pipe going out the window is sloping down. It should be sloping up so the heat can raise freely.
  7. Bret Chase

    Bret Chase Minister of Fire

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    the simplest answer to the OP's question is... no.
  8. ridemgis

    ridemgis Burning Hunk

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    It looks like Class A chimney pipe so it should only need two inches to combustibles, no?

    Double wall stove pipe is not insulated and needs the 8 inch clearance I think.
  9. bigblulbz

    bigblulbz New Member

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    I don't like it either. The T with the clean out is Class A triple wall. Yes, it is tipping down. Not a fan. I was looking for a Class A 90* instead of the T. I want flow. I have a mason that we will be doing a wall as well as the hearth. The window will be done with proper masonry (cmu's, brick, not sure) and wood trim will be disposed of. Using a wall thimble of course. I want it right. I want it operating at optimum efficiency. Everything it is not now.

    On a side note, when I do the hearth, I am expecting it to raise the stove 8" - 10" in total. I know there is not an exact pipe length for me. How is stove pipe cut? Will my tin snips do it? When the single walled stove pipe, should the male portion of the pipe be going vertical or vice versa.
  10. bigblulbz

    bigblulbz New Member

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    Thanks in advance guys. I probably wont do this till summer, but want to get my ducks in a row.
  11. Bret Chase

    Bret Chase Minister of Fire

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    snips will cut 24ga, but not happily through the seam... a zip wheel is much, much easier...
  12. webby3650

    webby3650 Master of Fire

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    Here's what needs to happen: Before you get the stone work done, remove the horizontal length of class A chimney. Reframe that opening and install a wall thimble. Then, from the thimble to the stove use double wall stove pipe. Use two 45's instead of a 90 if you are worried about draft.
    It looks like the reason the class A was used in this way was because of the clearance issue above the pipe. Double wall connector pipe has a 6" clearance, so that won't be an issue.

    No matter what pipe you go with, make sure you get a slip section. This allows you to remove the pipe for cleaning with ease, and you won't have to cut it.;)

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