Does anyone know if there would be any real difference if I went with 660 or 880 gallons of water storage? Space is limited and it's the difference between 3 tanks or 4.
Water storage question...
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220 gallons
Storage buys you time between burns and helps eliminate short, inefficient burns. It really comes down to what you system needs are. Total load at design conditions, boiler output, owner participation, and climate to some degree.
220 gallons
coldest days last winter were Jan 2nd and Jan 23rd with 24 hour average temperatures of 8 degrees. On those days 24 hr average heating load was about 48,000 BTU/HR. Peak load was about 57,000 BTU/HR
Daily average hourly heating loads over a 70 day heating period from 12/30/13 through 3/7/14 were about 31,000 BTU/HR.
Gasifier will be 30kw
Coal Reaper
Minister of Fire
maple1
Minister of Fire
Coal Reaper
Minister of Fire
unless you are using low-temp emitters (my knowledge pool is baseboards), that extra 220gals will give you about 73,500BTUs (200-160*F). at that average heat load its an extra hour and a half before your house temp will start to fall. doesnt sound like much of a difference, but its is an extra 33%. at that average temp your storage will take you about 4.5 hours with 660 gallons vs. 6 with 880.
*assume 160*F as min supply temp to emmiters. will be able to go to lower temp if house has excessive lengths of baseboards or oversized heat exchanger. i found that 140* minimum didnt work well for me when it got that cold. either way about it, that 220gals will add 1/3 of the time that you can run on storage.
*assume 160*F as min supply temp to emmiters. will be able to go to lower temp if house has excessive lengths of baseboards or oversized heat exchanger. i found that 140* minimum didnt work well for me when it got that cold. either way about it, that 220gals will add 1/3 of the time that you can run on storage.
Thanks for all the feedback.
Can low temp emitters be used in a forced air set up if there's some benefit? How do they work?
Can low temp emitters be used in a forced air set up if there's some benefit? How do they work?
maple1
Minister of Fire
Low temperature systems work well with large radiant surfaces, floors, ceilings, walls. Tight tube spacing helps a lot also.
For traditional fin tube or radiators you need to "force" convection to increase output, if you want to use low temperature supply.
The industry is responding to installers that want low mass, fast responding heat emitters that can work down to 100°F supply temperatures!
They do this by adding small, quiet muffin style fans. These fan "stacks" can also be modulated with a simple pwm control, change the fan speed as the load changes.
Sure a ducted forced air system could run on low temperature. You would need a very large HX sized to the fluid temperature you chose.
Problem with ducted systems is the heatloss through all that sheetmetal. By the time 100° air reaches the final vents, doesn't feel so warm
Not all jobs work well with slow responding, high mass radiant slabs. If your weather changes a lot, low mass fast responders may be a better choice. Radiant ceilings and walls fall somewhere in nthe middle, as far as operating temperatures required.
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