Well... I'm ready! Newbie's first post.

[GetUp]

I've done soooo much research that at this point I thought I would reach out here for to ask some of the questions I think I've got the answers to.

First off, let's talk about the basics. We're torn between two different heating styles.

1. Wood Stove (Vermont Castings, Jotul, etc.)
2. Zero Clearance Wood Stove (Not sure which brand -- and likely my last choice.)
3. Wood Fireplace (This right now is my first choice: http://www.hearthsidedistributors.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.19064/.f is the one I *really* think is the one I like best because we can stone it in, or something.

To start, I'd like to ask the opinions of you folks on these ideas... or any other questions you might have for me... There is lots more to ask, but I thought I'd start with this.

Thanks!
Pete

 

[Henz]

in my opinion, the best heat source if you are gonna heat your home is the free standing woodstove..If you just want ambience then the fireplace is good..The fireplace in my opinion is very inefficient

 

[CK-1]

I've done soooo much research that at this point I thought I would reach out here for to ask some of the questions I think I've got the answers to.

First off, let's talk about the basics. We're torn between two different heating styles.

1. Wood Stove (Vermont Castings, Jotul, etc.)
2. Zero Clearance Wood Stove (Not sure which brand -- and likely my last choice.)
3. Wood Fireplace (This right now is my first choice: http://www.hearthsidedistributors.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.19064/.f is the one I *really* think is the one I like best because we can stone it in, or something.

To start, I'd like to ask the opinions of you folks on these ideas... or any other questions you might have for me... There is lots more to ask, but I thought I'd start with this.

Thanks!
Pete

Are you planning on using this Wood Fireplace to heat your home?. Looks to me most of the heat will go up the chimney. Doesn't look like it produces much radiant heat as well. Just my 2cents....

 

[SlyFerret]

The one you linked to as your first choice will be pretty, but it won't give you much if any usable heat.

I'm not quite a wood burning veteran yet, but I know that my open fireplace, even though it has a blower on it, does not begin to approach the kind of heating performance that these guys get out of their stoves or inserts. I'm going to be starting my stove install this weekend and hope to be burning it instead of my fireplace within a couple weeks.

From what I've learned, a ZC wood stove is very similar to a stove insert, except that it doesn't require an existing fireplace to install it into. That would be a good option if you don't want a free standing stove out in the room. The inserts/ZC stoves need blowers running to really put out the heat.

What do you have in mind for your stove/fireplace? Do you just want ambiance or do you want real heat output?

-SF

 

[swestall]

If you build the Hearth for a free standing woodstove it will be wonderful. If you go with Vermont Castings: GO WITH THE CAT STOVE. Don't let them talk you into the Non CAT stove: I won't waste your time telling you all the details. I will tell you the CAT stove will be easier to use and will work wonderfully. You have to maintain both types and in the long run will spend less of your valuable time running the VC CAT stove. An efficient insert is between the fireplace and the woodstove: take a look at some of them too.
For me: free standing wood stoves ROCK! Good LUCK!

 

[GetUp]

Wow! Thanks guys. I've been reading (yeah, even more!) and I'm going to try my best to explain my issue. The issue is with the install And yes, this is going to lead to a whole bunch of new questions! :D

Here is a drawing (crude as it may be)

Of the location. The red circle is the stove, the chimney pipe is the red coming up out of it.

The area above the stove is a fiberglass walk-on deck... so I would MUCH rather NOT go straight up, rather use a 90* and go up and out the side.

Seems easily enough. Before I go on, let me know If I'm good so far... Then we'll get into the requirements for top of roof clearance, etc.

Thanks again,
Pete

(In other words, yes, the chimney pipe will continue up... but I want to go step by step to get ideas from you guys... just in case I wasn't clear on that. :D))

 

[argus66]

hey i was in this same exact situation just 2 months ago..... what pushed me to the wood stove was the easy instlation and the benifit of heating my house. the fireplace insert was gonna cost me 2500 for unit and instlation and then another 3000 to stone the face, but the wood stove was 3500 for all instlation pipe stove jotul fc3b and brick hearth all will be in in less than half a day..... ready to burn next day after fire inspection. i was sold on the stove. plus if power goes out no worries and the money saved on heat bill almost like stove paying for itself. if u want he ambiance of a fire place get a stove that can be used with door open. wont heat house but will look nice.

 

[GetUp]

Yup... I have been going back and forth between a fireplace and the stove. I am 99% with the stove -- and since it will be going in a corner area, I can do the stone work on both of the inside corners for a nice look. With the glass doors on the stove I think it'll be nice. I'm curious to see what folks come up with for my chimney pipe install...

 

[MrBigLog]

If i may add something...skip a cat stove and go with the easier non cat stoves...The questions to ask yourself are..How much money are you prepared to spend on replacement cats and the parts that break when you have to disassemble the unit to get to them. Not to mention the time wasted on rebuilding the stove. i watched my neighbor struggle thru catalytic stove rebuilds for others in the town we live in and its a pain in the butt. Cats also do not like mediocre wood and will plug easily..just my 2 cents on cats

 

[GetUp]

Yeah -- I know the cat styles are recommended, but I'm from the old, "keep it simple" mind-set... We'll see where this thread goes. Thanks.

 

[MrBigLog]

when i was buying my last stove it seems that there are way more non cat stoves out there that carry the same epa listings...So as you said keep it simple, and ill always stick witn NON cat stoves There is a reason why cat stoves are disapperaing.

 

[RedRanger]

Pete: We have an insert in our current home (20) years. And previous in our last house a stove. You will derive much more efficient heat from a stove. No question about it. Stove wins hands down. Hopefully, this helps you spend your hard-earned money wisely. Best of the season to you.

 

[swestall]

I agree with the non CAT stove, if it is not a Vermont Castings. If you want a Vermont Castings or any stove using their licensed refractory burner, you want the CAT stove because you will spend most of your waking hours babysititng the non CAT CFM VC/DW stoves. Unless of course you are able to get the perfect combination of chimney and draft, coals, wood supply with perfect moisture content, and are very lucky.
The stoves with secondary burn tubes seem to be more reliable and more load and go; isn't that what you want? There are many to choose from of that type and many folks here have experience with a variety of them. Perhaps they will chime in with some words on that topic.

 

[JimWalshin845]

Pete,

I think by consensus you shouldn't purchase any VC stove... so looks like you are stuck with the Jotul. ;-) But then again.. have you looked the the VC SEQUOIA Catalytic EWF36-A.. maybe the best of all worlds?


Welcome aboard and good luck with the project!

 

[GetUp]

Now I just need some of the chimney pipe routing experts to chime in on my through the wall vent application (see drawing above).

Thanks!

 

[begreen]

Why is the stove/fireplace/whatever being placed in this location? Is this absolutely the only alternative? Regardless of choice of type of woodburner, this is an area heater. It will be much more effective if placed in the body of the house. But if this is the only location, then so be it.

 

[GetUp]

Hi,

Yes... this is the only location for many different reasons. The layout of the house is extremely unconventional... how would you go about running the chimney pipe in an application like this?

 

[thechimneysweep]

If you must go out and up, you'll need a tee chimney, as shown in the attached sketch. You won't need parts #3, #4 or #5, unless you're penetrating an eave.

Here's a description of the parts you'll need, from the bottom up:

#7: Short length of insulated chimney to pass through wall and connect to tee
Not shown: a flue extender and end cap on inside end
#9: Wall thimble
#10: Tee support
#8: Insulated chimney tee w/bottom cap
#6: Wall band(s)
#2: Chimney lengths to extend above adjacent peak
#1: Rain cap

If your chimney is within ten feet of the adjacent roof, you'll need to extend the chimney 2 feet above the peak (or any part of the roof within 10 feet).

Looks to me like you'll need a custom roof brace to support this tall chimney. See the attached photo for an example.

 

[GetUp]

Tom you can read minds. No kidding. I saw your application photo in another thread, but it was too small, even when I clicked on it. I was going to send you a message, but didn't want to be a pest! Thank you I can see the brace better now. Yeah. I think you are 100% right. This thing is going to be very tall! I'll know better the height to attain the clearances you've mentioned and I've read for my area...

Based on my application, do you have any other suggestions? I can't go through the floor of the deck... I can't put it in a box (build a frame and side it to match the house) due to side-set back issues)... any other ideas?

Thanks!

P.S. In the end, I'll likely have to do a tall stack and brace it. Any ideas on the brace?

Thanks again!

 

[thechimneysweep]

Mine is tubular steel with a welded-on draw band. The ends are flattended and lag-bolted to the house.

 

[GetUp]

Thanks for the info... I'm going to take some measurements and pictures over the weekend and see if this is feasible without having a something that looks too big. Yours looks fine, so I should be good... we'll see.