Well, I'm skrewed

[heppm01]

Nobody's fault but my own.

Scored five cords off Craigslist this spring, an even mix of ash and maple. It had been dropped sometime over the winter, but I didn't get around to bucking and splitting until April/May (I'm sure you can see where I'm going with this). It was almost all trunk, mostly 24"-28" across.

The ash is in good shape and burning fine. The maple is another story. Hissing and oozing water like you wouldn't believe. This spring I thought it was soft maple and would season "okay", but now I'm thinking it must be hard and it's aways away from being burnable. My HF moisture meter took a dump so I can't get a reading, but it doesn't really matter because the fire doesn't lie.

I'll resplit it all and rotate it to the prime seasoning location, but I think I'm going to have to write if off for this year. Besides the other CL ash I have another three cords of mostly ash with some black walnut and sassafras, but without the maple I'll probably be shutting down the OWB by March.

Don't ride me too hard, this is my first full year burning and I'm still learning the ropes. Thanks to this forum I'm lightyears ahead of where I was last winter, and getting smarter all the time.

Thanks,

Matt

 

[Nonprophet]

Nobody's fault but my own.

Scored five cords off Craigslist this spring, an even mix of ash and maple. It had been dropped sometime over the winter, but I didn't get around to bucking and splitting until April/May (I'm sure you can see where I'm going with this). It was almost all trunk, mostly 24"-28" across.

The ash is in good shape and burning fine. The maple is another story. Hissing and oozing water like you wouldn't believe. This spring I thought it was soft maple and would season "okay", but now I'm thinking it must be hard and it's aways away from being burnable. My HF moisture meter took a dump so I can't get a reading, but it doesn't really matter because the fire doesn't lie.

I'll resplit it all and rotate it to the prime seasoning location, but I think I'm going to have to write if off for this year. Besides the other CL ash I have another three cords of mostly ash with some black walnut and sassafras, but without the maple I'll probably be shutting down the OWB by March.

Don't ride me too hard, this is my first full year burning and I'm still learning the ropes. Thanks to this forum I'm lightyears ahead of where I was last winter, and getting smarter all the time.

Thanks,

Matt

Hey Matt,

No need for any of us to beat you up--sounds like you're doing of fine job of that yourself! lol

It's still free BTU's, just a little delayed gratification is all..........


NP

 

[Bootlegger]

My first two years I thought a fire was suppose to hiss and spit. The trees had been down all summer, so cut and split it couldn't be green, right? Then I discovered hearth.com in the spring and mine eyes have seen the glory.
Don't sweat it, and that maple may be ready sooner than you think.

 

[smokinj]

heck if you splitt it small it will be good to go by march thats 4 months to season out your still good

 

[heppm01]

heck if you splitt it small it will be good to go by march thats 4 months to season out your still good

I've read this before but always wondered about it.

Once it gets solidly down below freezing and stays there, doesn't the moisture in the wood essentially freeze and the wood temporarily stop seasoning? That would only give me about six weeks or so of additional time.

 

[DBoon]

If you think that below freezing temperatures will inhibit evaporation of moisture from your wood, then try this experiment - hang a wet towel on a laundry line when it's 10 degrees outside. It will freeze stiff, then dry completely just as if you hung it out in the summertime.

Winter air is usually very dry - dryer than summer. Wood will dry year round.

 

[John the Painter]

It's also easier to split when you get some frost into hte wood.I've gone through a similar situation.If it's possible to stack your wood close to your stove (safely) it would help speed up the process.Happy Burning.

 

[doubledip]

If you are running an OWB what idfference does it make how well the wood is seasoned? unless you're worried about making too much smoke.

 

[Bootlegger]

If you are running an OWB what idfference does it make how well the wood is seasoned? unless you're worried about making too much smoke.

Creosote buildup and a loss of energy from turning the water to steam are the biggest reasons. But I can witness, its possible to heat your house with hissing wood. I've done it the last two years. I burned probably 50% more wood than I needed, fortunately I have a great flue and no creosote buildup after those two years.

+1 on the dry winter air drying the wood further.

 

[smokinj]

heck if you splitt it small it will be good to go by march thats 4 months to season out your still good

I've read this before but always wondered about it.

Once it gets solidly down below freezing and stays there, doesn't the moisture in the wood essentially freeze and the wood temporarily stop seasoning? That would only give me about six weeks or so of additional time.

not imo it will keep seasoning no matter what the weather maybe not as fast but 4 more month is a very good shot at having it ready

 

[Duetech]

heck if you splitt it small it will be good to go by march thats 4 months to season out your still good

I've read this before but always wondered about it.

Once it gets solidly down below freezing and stays there, doesn't the moisture in the wood essentially freeze and the wood temporarily stop seasoning? That would only give me about six weeks or so of additional time.

If you can keep ths snow off of it it will season some even in the winter. Sunshine will put some warmth into it but you also have the "freezer burn" going on. It's certainly not as effective as good ole summer time seasoning but it does happen. I would seriously consider resplitting and moving the wood inside the basement if you can. Air flow in the home will do wonders. Not fun but been there done that.

 

[CowboyAndy]

last year was my first year, and i burned hard maple that wasnt 100% seasoned. a good bit of it hissed and bubbled. we made it through the year though.

especially with having an owb, you should be able to still use it. yes, you will have some btu loss. but the way i see it is that its still better than paying for oil/gas...

 

[Ratman]

Split the necessary volume of the wetter wood pile at least once maybe smaller.
Suppliment some of the dryer wood pile with pallet wood etc.

 

[Tony H]

split the maple smaller and cross stack it OUTSIDE cover it with some plywood with black plastic stapled to it on top only with the plywood elevated over the wood with a few extra splits on each end . Brush or blow any snow off of it as needed .
As you load the boiler throw a few wetter splits on top of each load and they will dry pretty much as the lower wood cooks them. Doing this plus finding some pallet or other dry wood will let you at least extend the burning time for this season by a bit. Maybe trade some of you wetter stuff with someone who has an excess of dry it you know anyone .

 

[Skier76]

Don't beat yourself up Matt. I'm in a similar situation. I had my wood delivered in August and it's hissing/spitting a bit right now. There's not much I can do right now aside from resplitting some of the larger chunks and hoping for the best.

I started a thread just like this one earlier this week.

 

[firefighterjake]

Random thoughts . . .

Wow . . . someone with an outdoor wood boiler who actually cares about whether or not the wood is seasoned . . . kudos to you. I've met many OWB users around here who are actually pleased that they can burn green wood in their boiler . . . and they don't seem to care one iota on how much smoke comes out of the stack or how much creosote is gunking up the flue. That said, with an OWB I think you would be OK to burn the maple once you get the fire up and running . . . especially if you have an established fire going . . . perhaps with some pallet pieces to help drive out the moisture.

Resplitting the maple is good . . . if you think you can use the good stuff until March I'd say you're doing pretty well for a first year burner . . . and perhaps by then the maple will be good to go.

 

[Wood Duck]

... The maple is another story. Hissing and oozing water like you wouldn't believe. This spring I thought it was soft maple and would season "okay", but now I'm thinking it must be hard and it's aways away from being burnable. ...
Thanks,

Matt

Matt,
I too have trouble telling hard maple (Sugar Maple) from soft maple (Red Maple) unless I can see the leaves. Norway Maple and Silver Maple look distinctive enough I can generally identify them, but Red and Sugar are tough, at least the way they grow around here.

 

[smokinj]

... The maple is another story. Hissing and oozing water like you wouldn't believe. This spring I thought it was soft maple and would season "okay", but now I'm thinking it must be hard and it's aways away from being burnable. ...
Thanks,

Matt

Matt,
I too have trouble telling hard maple (Sugar Maple) from soft maple (Red Maple) unless I can see the leaves. Norway Maple and Silver Maple look distinctive enough I can generally identify them, but Red and Sugar are tough, at least the way they grow around here.

should be able to tell by the way your chainsaw runs if nothing else. hope that helps soft maple the rpms just run much higher

 

[Gator eye]

Random thoughts . . .

Wow . . . someone with an outdoor wood boiler who actually cares about whether or not the wood is seasoned . . . kudos to you. I've met many OWB users around here who are actually pleased that they can burn green wood in their boiler . . . and they don't seem to care one iota on how much smoke comes out of the stack or how much creosote is gunking up the flue. That said, with an OWB I think you would be OK to burn the maple once you get the fire up and running . . . especially if you have an established fire going . . . perhaps with some pallet pieces to help drive out the moisture.

Resplitting the maple is good . . . if you think you can use the good stuff until March I'd say you're doing pretty well for a first year burner . . . and perhaps by then the maple will be good to go.

I know...huh.

I know half a dozen or so OWB that will only burn green wood.

They say dry wood burns to quick....

What about creosote?????......who cares, when it builds up enough it'll light up and clean the stack out
on it's own. And after lookin at my neighbors lawn after it snow, he's right it does clean itself out. I wouldn't want any buildings to close when it does though, it throws soot and ash everywhere.

 

[gpcollen1]

Can't you just buy a cord to get you some more burntime. I know it costs money but still cheaper than other fuels.

 

[Wet1]

The problem is finding a truly seasoned cord to buy...

 

[Delta-T]

heck if you splitt it small it will be good to go by march thats 4 months to season out your still good

I've read this before but always wondered about it.

Once it gets solidly down below freezing and stays there, doesn't the moisture in the wood essentially freeze and the wood temporarily stop seasoning? That would only give me about six weeks or so of additional time.

When its cold enough, and the air is dry enough, or if the air pressure is low water will basically sublimate. I see it all the time with ice cube trays in my freezer. Michigan in winter is like a freezer, isn't it? If that doesn't work out for you I hear from the locals with OWB, that you can always burn tires (thats a joke, so.....don't do that).

 

[Tony H]

heck if you splitt it small it will be good to go by march thats 4 months to season out your still good

I've read this before but always wondered about it.

Once it gets solidly down below freezing and stays there, doesn't the moisture in the wood essentially freeze and the wood temporarily stop seasoning? That would only give me about six weeks or so of additional time.

When its cold enough, and the air is dry enough, or if the air pressure is low water will basically sublimate. I see it all the time with ice cube trays in my freezer. Michigan in winter is like a freezer, isn't it? If that doesn't work out for you I hear from the locals with OWB, that you can always burn tires (thats a joke, so.....don't do that).

Don't forget the story about the guy who took a bale of hay soaked it down so it froze and threw it in the OWB !!
Burns for a long time he said I would call him a bird brain but that would be an insult to birds everywhere!

First year I burned I was short wood so I just burned til I was out and started collecting for the next year no big deal to burn a little gas or oil in spring if you have to.

 

[Chief Ryan]

I don't know what type of setup you have but my stove is in front of my old fireplace. If i suspect the wood is a little wet i throw it in the old firebox behind the stove and turn the Eco Fan around to blow the hot air behind the stove. It works great, adds moisture to the house as well.

 

[heppm01]

Yeah, with the OWB I can burn it green, but it's just not right, ya know? It cheeses me off to think that I'm wasting 30% or so of the BTUs just evaporating the water.

I'll resplit and see how things are in late winter. I'm encouraged to hear that the wood will still season even in freezing weather.

As for other sources of heat, my last propane fill was at $1.29/gal which is pretty damn cheap. Not as good as burning "free" wood, but if push comes to shove I won't feel too bad about going back to the furnace for a month or so.

Thanks for all the support.

Matt