what do you think of my new chimney?

[disamatic]

Well I took the plunge and moved forward with my first chimney install, I used all Selkirk components, don't know if I really needed the insulation shield but it's in there. All clearance to combustible are 2" or better, it has rained like hell here the last 24 hours. No leaks yet. Now to just build a hearth pad and connect from stove to chimney. What do You folks think? I am asking for opinions so critique away. Here to learn. Chimney is a straight shot from stove. 14' overall height. Thank you for your thoughts.

 

[disamatic]

Hmm. Don't know if I got all seven pictures up...

 

[Rickb]

hmm the part above the roof looks right. Not sure on the part in your attic. Should only have a ceiling support box that the class A locks into and maybe an additional insulation shield.

 

[disamatic]

hmm the part above the roof looks right. Not sure on the part in your attic. Should only have a ceiling support box that the class A locks into and maybe an additional insulation shield.

Yes, there is a 17" cathedral box, which the pipe comes through the bottom and is supported with a locking band and self tapping screws, then I framed around the cathedral support and attached the insulation shield to that. Does that sound better?

 

[bholler]

Looks right to me you didnt need to caulk the collar on the insulation shield but not a problem that you did

 

[disamatic]

Looks right to me you didnt need to caulk the collar on the insulation shield but not a problem that you did

Well it just did to in the instructions to use high temp sealer.

 

[BrotherBart]

Good job.

 

[disamatic]

That was before the framing around the top of the cathedral box. Then the shield was screwed to that. Thank guys!

 

[bholler]

Well it just did to in the instructions to use high temp sealer.

Really i stand corrected then None of the ones i have done have ever said to do it and there really should be no need. But if the instructions said to do it you did right

 

[BrotherBart]

Nothing wrong with belt and suspenders too.

 

[webby3650]

All looks good, no need for the red silicone. Regular silicone is rated high enough to handle any temps that the pipe will reach. No biggie though. I've have also never seen an attic insulation shield require that the collar be caulked. Typically only the collar above the flashing needs this. I assume this is the one that the instructions were referring too.

 

[disamatic]

All looks good, no need for the red silicone. Regular silicone is rated high enough to handle any temps that the pipe will reach. No biggie though. I've have also never seen an attic insulation shield require that the collar be caulked. Typically only the collar above the flashing needs this. I assume this is the one that the instructions were referring too.

right on that collar the sticker says to do that, yeah, kinda odd i thought, ugly to. But nobody will see it except on here. lol.
So do people actually pull the make up air from the outside or just use the inside air? Thanks.

 

[Owen1508]

Well done.

 

[disamatic]

Does anyone have any special thoughts on make up air? Is is ok to pull from the house? Its a stick built 2250sq ft. Or do i need to pull from the outside? Thanks folks!

 

[Frank625]

Looks great, how much did the parts cost you?

 

[disamatic]

Looks great, how much did the parts cost you?

Thanks, it took some studying but i think paid off. I paid just under $400 for all the parts.

 

[disamatic]

This is the ceiling side of things, i just finished that yesterday, now comes the hearth pad, and then the connection!

 

[Owen1508]

Does anyone have any special thoughts on make up air? Is is ok to pull from the house? Its a stick built 2250sq ft. Or do i need to pull from the outside? Thanks folks!

It really only make-up air when you pull from outside. You can fab a nice passive air system.
search OAK in the forums and you will find MANY debates and ways to do an outside air kit.

 

[disamatic]

Thanks, for the info, i guess i am curious if that will answer my question though, do i need? Is it required to pull from a outside source typically?

 

[hwdemers]

Thanks, it took some studying but i think paid off. I paid just under $400 for all the parts.

wow. that was a great price!

 

[hwdemers]

Thanks, for the info, i guess i am curious if that will answer my question though, do i need? Is it required to pull from a outside source typically?
the only way to know for sure, is put the house under the worst conditions( shut everything, turn on all exhaust fans and the drier, turn the thermostat up for the other heating appliance. ) and see how it(the wood stove) functions. if it dose not perform the way you like, open a window, if that solves it then add makeup air

 

[Owen1508]

Thanks, for the info, i guess i am curious if that will answer my question though, do i need? Is it required to pull from a outside source typically?

Depends, some say yes some say no I guess, IMO new built houses or older ones with new doors/windows, that are "air tight" will need make up air. It is easy to get your house in a negative pressure situation, things like your range hood vent, bathroom exhaust fan, clothes dryer and gas/oil/wood burning appliances are all competing for the limited air that is in your home. If the stove has a direct fresh air intake then hooking an OAK to it will (again IMHO) always help never hurt. If it doesn't having a passive or mechanical set up will do the same. For the few dollars (~100) I think it's a no brainer. But to each their own, it's one of the good debate topics that comes up every so often.
EDIT: not having one can effect your chimneys draft, causing it to reverse in some cases

 

[disamatic]

Depends, some say yes some say no I guess, IMO new built houses or older ones with new doors/windows, that are "air tight" will need make up air. It is easy to get your house in a negative pressure situation, things like your range hood vent, bathroom exhaust fan, clothes dryer and gas/oil/wood burning appliances are all competing for the limited air that is in your home. If the stove has a direct fresh air intake then hooking an OAK to it will (again IMHO) always help never hurt. If it doesn't having a passive or mechanical set up will do the same. For the few dollars (~100) it thinks it's a no brainer. But to each their own, it's one of the good debate topics that comes up every so often.
EDIT: not having one can effect your chimneys draft, causing it to reverse in some cases

Thats some great information! Thank you!

 

[disamatic]

Thanks, for the info, i guess i am curious if that will answer my question though, do i need? Is it required to pull from a outside source typically?
the only way to know for sure, is put the house under the worst conditions( shut everything, turn on all exhaust fans and the drier, turn the thermostat up for the other heating appliance. ) and see how it(the wood stove) functions. if it dose not perform the way you like, open a window, if that solves it then add makeup air

Thanks!

 

[Frank625]

You will just have to burn and see. If it burns good don't worry about it. You can always test by opening a window to see what kind of difference it makes. You can watch the chimney from outside and have somebody turn on your drier too. Looks like you are going to have a good season with that setup.