What do you think of this design?

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Trying to come up with something to try with minimal rebuilding.

Almost the same as your last one, except T the bottom of the danfoss/load return, to the dip tube. And close the valve at the bottom of your tank so there is only one way back to the boiler - thru the danfoss. That should allow flow thru the dip tube to reverse when your boiler circ stops running & your zones are calling for heat (draw from storage when the fire goes out), but would likely still allow some flow thru the cool boiler when doing that though. How much flow will go where I have not much idea.

All that is dependant on the 1" dip tube being able to handle all the flow though. If not, I think you should return to the boiler from the bottom of the tank & move the danfoss to the boiler as mentioned before.

Still looking forward to seeing more input from others.
 
Maple... I like your idea. That would be a fairly easy change. Do diptubes cause any problems. I was wondering if the stratified hot water at the top of the tank would heat the return water that flows up the tube.

just to simplify, I created a schematic that shows the system as best as I could. I talked to a guy a work he says the close proximity tee definatly needs to go.
 

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Another alternative I thought about after that last post - instead of using the dip tube, you could run that green line I drew there, from the bottom of the danfoss down to the outlet on the bottom of the tank and use that outlet instead of the dip tube outlet. It would avoid having to move the danfoss if use of the dip tube was questionable.
 
i think thats a good idea Maple. Unless someone else has any recomendations before this weekend, I think thats what I'm going to do. I appreciate your help Maple. I'll let you know how things go when I get to working on it sat. I may eliminate the close prox tee at the manafold also. I'm not much of a fan of those things anymore.
 
well.... i got the parts i needed tonight and jumped into it. removed the close prox tee like we have been talking about. the verdict.... IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it ran through all the cycles. tank heats while the house heats, house gets 180 water, storage charges when house is not calling. boiler is gassing good and pressure is 20psi. I could not be happier!!!!!! This is theeee first time my system has worked properly since installed OCT 2010. Storage is still charging but Ill let you know what it reaches. its 165 now. I swear the house is even heating better (even when I had 180 water in the manafold before). Thanks to all of you that struggled through this with me! You are a great group of guys/gals. by the way... its setup like the Simplest design. This is definatly the best design out there in my opinion! Luke
 
Hi
One thing i noticed,you need to turn your boiler circ pump 1/4 turn.I bel;ive the electrical box on it should be vertical as opposed to horizontal.
Glad you have the system working better
Thomas
 
I thought the important thing was to keep the shaft horizontal - which that seems to be. Wouldn't turning it so the box was vertical then put the shaft vertical too?
 
maple1 said:
I thought the important thing was to keep the shaft horizontal - which that seems to be. Wouldn't turning it so the box was vertical then put the shaft vertical too?

Yes, shaft horizontal, but salecker is saying junction box shouldn't be hanging underneath, I suppose because having it at 9, 12, or 3 o'clock would help keep errant water flow away from the juice.
 
I'm not touching it now, haha. Its working and thats good enough for me. If it fails someday, I have extra circs to replace it ( 3 were removed from the original design) By the way, storage got up to full temp last night and it was a 5deg night.
 
eriesigtau said:
well.... i got the parts i needed tonight and jumped into it. removed the close prox tee like we have been talking about. the verdict.... IT WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! it ran through all the cycles. tank heats while the house heats, house gets 180 water, storage charges when house is not calling. boiler is gassing good and pressure is 20psi. I could not be happier!!!!!! This is theeee first time my system has worked properly since installed OCT 2010. Storage is still charging but Ill let you know what it reaches. its 165 now. I swear the house is even heating better (even when I had 180 water in the manafold before). Thanks to all of you that struggled through this with me! You are a great group of guys/gals. by the way... its setup like the Simplest design. This is definatly the best design out there in my opinion! Luke


From your 'Storage taking too long to charge. Any ideas???' thread 10 Dec 2011:

ewdudley said:
Have a look at the 'Simplest' sticky, or the Tarm reference designs, or the Laddomat reference designs.

Hot water from wood boiler goes directly to top of storage. Load line can tee into the line coming from the wood boiler or it can pull from the top of storage, either way. Load gets first shot at any hot water from boiler, any excess goes to storage. If boiler flow is insufficient then deficit comes from storage.

Lines to boiler may be marginally sized, but even at 6 gpm you should be able to get up to 150000 btu per hour or more if the return line to the boiler comes from the bottom of storage and nowhere else, but you can't make that happen the way you're set up. Sorry, but that whole primary boiler loop strategy has to go.
 
huffdawg said:
Your boiler pump is installed as per grundfos installation instructions

http://www.us.grundfos.com/web/download.nsf/Pages/DB9E15987978351F88256C4E006EA652/$File/L-UP-PG-001.pdf

GRUNDFOS INSTRUCTIONS Installation and Operation:

Code:
Position of terminal box:  Proper installation of the pump
will have the terminal box located to one side of the pump or
the other, with the conduit entry down.
 
ewdudley said:
huffdawg said:
Your boiler pump is installed as per grundfos installation instructions

http://www.us.grundfos.com/web/download.nsf/Pages/DB9E15987978351F88256C4E006EA652/$File/L-UP-PG-001.pdf

GRUNDFOS INSTRUCTIONS Installation and Operation:

Code:
Position of terminal box:  Proper installation of the pump
will have the terminal box located to one side of the pump or
the other, with the conduit entry down.


I don't understand by looking at pic. 3a how with the teminal cover underneath or above the motor could the conduit entry face down when its on the side. Is the conduit entry where you put the conductor through the housing and secure it with a strain relief?
Correct me if i'm wrong but I think the only way the conduit entry can be facing down is if the pump is mounted vertically. I guess you could put a 90 degree strain relief on.

Huff
 
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