What kind of Interior pipe for our A-frame?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Stephany

New Member
Jun 12, 2007
17
Hi -

After 2 different stove dealers have recommended conflicting installations, I am hoping that you can provide advice on the best stovepipe/configuration for a freestanding woodstove in our 3-story A-frame summer cabin.

The woodstove (considering the Avalon Arbor, the Lopi Leyden twin) will sit on the bottom floor of a 3 story, 1400 sq ft. A-frame cabin, along the side wall. The stovepipe runs vertically through the interior of the house up the 3 separate floors and out next to the peak of the roof on the 3rd floor. We are replacing an old iron "burn barrel" stove with a single-walled stovepipe that also ran through the interior of the house, up the 3 floors.

One dealer said that we could use double-walled black pipe through all the interior areas and exit the roof to Stainless pipe on the outside of the roof. Another dealer said that we could only use black pipe on the first floor and after it passed to the 2nd floor, we had to convert the pipe to stainless and run stainless pipe through the top 2 floors and out the roof. Naturally, we are trying to find a safer solution, but also keep the cost down as much as posible

Which installation is correct? Are either okay?

Thanks very much for your help -

Stephany
 
If you are going up though floors/living space you have to have Class A chimney pipe and it has to be closed in by a chase in the living areas above. You can use single wall up to the ceiling, into a proper support box and the rest has to be Class A. You also will need radiation sheilds in the floor areas to protect the floor/ceiling joists.
 
Thanks for the fast reply Michael.

At the risk of revealing my ignorance, aren't double-walled black pipe and stainless both Class A chimney pipe? What is the advantage of one over the other factored against cost?

Thanks for clarifying,

Stephany
 
Brier Steph said:
Thanks for the fast reply Michael.

At the risk of revealing my ignorance, aren't double-walled black pipe and stainless both Class A chimney pipe? What is the advantage of one over the other factored against cost?

Thanks for clarifying,

Stephany

standard double wall pipe is not insulated and is designed to allow more heat to be trapped which gives a closer clearance to combustibles in a room environment, also it is used when a long interior run in a room environment (such as a cathedral ceiling) where it would benefit draft. class A is flue pipe that is designed to be used when penetrating floors ceilings and roofs , it is insulated and traps most all heat within its inner liner. this pipe must be used when penetrating a wall, ceiling or rooftop, and from that point to the cap class A must be used. standard double wall is only allowed in the room space with the stove itself. essentially michael is correct in his assessment , you have to use class A from the first floor ceiling up, but may use single wall or double wall from the unit to that connection.
 
"The stovepipe runs vertically through the interior of the house up the 3 separate floors and out next to the peak of the roof on the 3rd floor. We are replacing an old iron “burn barrel” stove with a single-walled stovepipe that also ran through the interior of the house, up the 3 floors."

Is this a three story wide open area or is it three different floors of living space? Meaning, is there a railing and loft configuration as is typical in A-frame cabins?

The reason being that from the top of the stove to the first ceiling can be single wall or double wall. This first "ceiling" may be the inside of the roof or it may be the bottom of the first floor. Class A pipe is very expensive so you only want to use it where it is needed which is after that first ceiling/floor penetration.
 
Thanks for your responses, Mike & Highbeam.

Our A-Frame is 3 distinct floors across the width and depth of the structure, not a loft. There is a spiral staircase up the center of the 1st & 2nd floors. But overall the floors are not open to each other - no cathedral ceilings. The chimney runs through the floors of the 2nd and 3rd stories and out the roof of the 3rd story.

So based on what you have said, it sounds like we do need to run stainless (or Class A) pipe through the 2nd and 3rd floors and out the roof. Is Stainless the only Class A-type of pipe, or are there less expensive versions? (since it is about 24' of pipe!)

Thanks again for your help. You are great!

Stephany
 
the interior of the class A pipe is stainless the outer will either be stainless (for outdoors) or galvanized (indoor) there are several brands (we at ESW use simpson duravent for our testing and other needs) but selkirk metalbestos is a fine product as well, supervent from what i hear is good stuff also (although i havent used and cannot further vouch for it, maybe some of our other members can having used it ) is available at lowes. depot carries simpson i think and selkirk is also widely available. if you want to check in with the companies, simpson can be reached at 800-835-4429 (if you call them , ask for marie, she has always been very friendly and helpful to me personally) i dont have the other factories numbers handy i can get them if you like no problem,(i know simpsons off top of my head) check in with them , i do not think any of them sell factory direct ( i may be wrong so check) but they should be able to get you in touch with a local dealer. i do want to stress that you do need to do the class A from first ceiling up, its hugely important that this system is put in correctly , not only for performance of a phase 2 unit , but above all else to protect your family and self.
 
Thanks Mike, for the great explanation and recommendations for pipe! All of the answers in this thread were just what I needed - I feel a lot less dense now!

Stephany
 
OOPs. Stephany,
We're so anxious to answer your questions, we forgot to welcome you to the hearth. So, Welcome and ask away. We are willing to answer almost any question, expect stock quotes.
 
UncleRich said:
OOPs. Stephany,
We're so anxious to answer your questions, we forgot to welcome you to the hearth. So, Welcome and ask away. We are willing to answer almost any question, expect stock quotes.

If you ask us nicely enough, we'll possibly do stock quotes as well, but they probably won't be correct.... :p

Gooserider
 
Gooserider said:
UncleRich said:
OOPs. Stephany,
We're so anxious to answer your questions, we forgot to welcome you to the hearth. So, Welcome and ask away. We are willing to answer almost any question, expect stock quotes.

If you ask us nicely enough, we'll possibly do stock quotes as well, but they probably won't be correct.... :p

Gooserider

Speak for yourself. I don't do cows, pigs, sheep, goats, or any other four, two or no legged critters. This is a hearth forum, not a stock yard. :cheese:
 
Supervent by Selkirk is good too, and at least in my neck of the woods, much cheaper. Only negative is check the boxes prior. They arent packed with much "breathing room" and tend to be "dinged" up sometimes. As stated earlier, dont forget that if exposed to living space (sounds like it is) it needs to be chased (boxed in) and you will need joist/firestop protection between floors.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.