What to buy: Preparing for a new furnace

[Lcback]

You guys, are my experts. And this up coming summer i will be buying a new wood furnace, right now its looking like a Tundra, either that or the new one when it comes out.

So My question is, What all should i get in anticipation of this new beast. If i can set the money aside for it now, I'm probably not going to skimp so much as one giant purchase.

I currently run a smoke dragon. Class A chimney, out a basement and up the side of the house. So that's my only furnace equipment.

I plan on putting it directly on top of a concrete floor, so no floor protection. Some rear wall protection would be nice, if i can cut the clearance some. But that's not necessarily what I'm looking to buy now. I want to buy accessories, that you guys think are a must.

IE, what manometer, something to measure SP with as well? Should I get a baro damper? a key damper? What about a thermostat? Or can I just run it like I do the smoke dragon, and make adjustments as I get cold, or hot.
There is probably some more stuff I'm forgetting, so let me know please.

 

[STIHLY DAN]

What will yours come with? My unit came with a Baro and a T-stat.

 

[brenndatomu]

What will yours come with? My unit came with a Baro and a T-stat.

Tundra comes with a ash shovel, poker, and a HE scraper, owners manual...that's it (well, they may be coming with a moisture meter now too)

-You'll want to get some concrete blocks to set the furnace on...Tundra is short.
-IIRC you have (2) 90* elbows...I'd try to replace those with 45*s.
-Tstat..yes. A cheapy like the Honeywell FocusPro 5000 works good...or go programmable for a bit more...FocusPro 6000. I have bought both brand new off ebay for $20 or less.
-Baro or key...you need to decide...SBI says no manual damper...I have one anyways...and a baro. I keep the baro covered with HD aluminum foil most of the time (don't like to cool my chimney) only uncover if draft cannot be controlled otherwise. Fortunately I seldom have to close the key damper...for some reason my chimney tends to stay in the right range most of the time. I understand why SBI says no manual damper...there is a risk of smoking back into the house if you closed the damper too far and then the intake damper opens later on...intake open...exhaust closed=bad deal!
-Manometer...YES! I wouldn't run a wood furnace without one, too much potential for overdraft when heating from the basement. And you need one to properly set (and maintain) a manometer (look over in the for sale section...IMO there's a good deal on manometers there )
I'm sure you have read about the temp and speed controls that I have installed on my Tundra...totally optional, but IMO that has reformed my Tundra from a college frat boy into a refined gentleman. Obviously you would probably want to get used to running a stock Tundra first...and of course you would need to be somewhat electrically knowledgeable to install these features...but SOOOO worth the little bit of money that I have invested into these mods!

 

[Lcback]

Thanks guys. The draft has me all confused. They say you have to have a pretty specific draft. But no manual dampers? So how do I get my drafts to stay down when the fire is hot, without it being to low when the fire is cold?
I don't know this stuff yet. My old cresote factory. I just pushed it back to the stove pipe and called it a day.
I had to change the 2 90s the first time it clogged. Now it's 2 45s and an angled section. Are there flexible stove pipe that is okay? Or sliding sectiobs so I don't have to move the stove to clean?

 

[brenndatomu]

Are there flexible stove pipe that is okay? Or sliding sectiobs so I don't have to move the stove to clean?

No flex.
Sliding (adjustable) stove pipe, yes.
Try it with no pipe damper at first, you may be OK...but likely not once it gets real cold/windy. That's why SBI recommends baro over a key damper...they are automatic

 

[Lcback]

Okay. And the downfall to the baro is what? I'm sorry if it's been discussed many times. But I'm all new to this stuff besides wood goes in smoke goes out.
I'll probably install a baro, are they all created equal? I have seen $40 and I have seen $100.
Are the telescoping okay to use for stove pipe?

 

[brenndatomu]

Cold air in chimney...bad.
Baro...http://www.supplyhouse.com/Field-Controls-6-RC-6-Draft-Regulator-for-Wood-Oil-or-Coal

 

[Lcback]

Thanks brenn. That's the same as the t ones I see?

 

[brenndatomu]

Thanks brenn. That's the same as the t ones I see?

It can be mounted in a tee or use the adapter that it comes with to mount it right on the pipe

 

[Lcback]

Awesome thanks.
So another question.
That will have to be mounted after the 45 out of the furnace. Do you compensate for that? Or just take your measurements from inside the furnace?
Do you guys have the manometer hooked up all the time and monitor to make adjustments?

 

[brenndatomu]

That will have to be mounted after the 45 out of the furnace. Do you compensate for that? Or just take your measurements from inside the furnace?

Not following ya here...
Manometer is on full time

 

[Lcback]

Sorry I meant the 45 elbow in the stack. Where do you pipe in the manometer at for your readings?

 

[brenndatomu]

Anywhere between the stove and any damper, baro or key...you want to sample the draft that the firebox is actually seeing

 

[STIHLY DAN]

Okay. And the downfall to the baro is what? I'm sorry if it's been discussed many times. But I'm all new to this stuff besides wood goes in smoke goes out.
I'll probably install a baro, are they all created equal? I have seen $40 and I have seen $100.
Are the telescoping okay to use for stove pipe?

I have never seen a down fall. All units requiring X draft have one. I wish I put one on my woodstove. I get tons of draft, my baro is very active.

 

[maple1]

I think the main 'downside' to a baro, is that the cooler air coming in when/if it is open, causes creosote buildup.

Which shouldn't really be much of an issue with a clean burner such as a Tundra.

And even when I had my dirty burning old boiler, it wasn't really much of an issue. More creosote built up around the baro opening, yes, but it was really easy to scrape out & the baro opening also served as a pipe access point for further cleaning & inspection.

Some use both manual & baro - the manual is set to a certain 'baseline' draft. So not closed very much. Which would cover most times in low draft conditions. Then the baro would take over (automatically) in times of high winds etc..

 

[Lcback]

Alright baro damper it is.
Where do you guys buy stove pipe? And how do you set your system up for cleaning without moving the furnace?
Amazon prices seem highly inflated.
I was looking for telescoping of something of the sort. My insurance company says it has to be able to clean without moving the furnace.

 

[brenndatomu]

Telescoping pipe lets you take it apart no problem.
Dunno that there is one place that always has best price on it...I'd watch the Menards ads, they have been known to have some pretty good sales on that kinda stuff sometimes...even with shipping they may still beat many others prices...or you could pick it up at the same time as your new furnace

 

[Lcback]

Good point. Good point. I will check menards shipping though. I forget about them because we don't have any

 

[leon]

Good point. Good point. I will check menards shipping though. I forget about them because we don't have any

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You can purchase Dwyer Mark II manomometers from amazon you would need the probe from Dwyer to connect it.


I am curious as to why your not burning anthracite as you are in PA?
There are several UL/ASME/CSA rated coal furnaces on the market.

 

[Lcback]

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You can purchase Dwyer Mark II manomometers from amazon you would need the probe from Dwyer to connect it.


I am curious as to why your not burning anthracite as you are in PA?
There are several UL/ASME/CSA rated coal furnaces on the market.

You got a list for one under 2k that burns wood too? Even in pa anthracite is 250 to 300 a ton. Bituminous is cheap as dirt. Honestly maybe cheaper. $60 for a ton. But every time I burn it my house smells bad. And I find black soot everyshere

 

[jb6l6gc]

Tundra comes with a ash shovel, poker, and a HE scraper, owners manual...that's it (well, they may be coming with a moisture meter now too)

-You'll want to get some concrete blocks to set the furnace on...Tundra is short.
-IIRC you have (2) 90* elbows...I'd try to replace those with 45*s.
-Tstat..yes. A cheapy like the Honeywell FocusPro 5000 works good...or go programmable for a bit more...FocusPro 6000. I have bought both brand new off ebay for $20 or less.
-Baro or key...you need to decide...SBI says no manual damper...I have one anyways...and a baro. I keep the baro covered with HD aluminum foil most of the time (don't like to cool my chimney) only uncover if draft cannot be controlled otherwise. Fortunately I seldom have to close the key damper...for some reason my chimney tends to stay in the right range most of the time. I understand why SBI says no manual damper...there is a risk of smoking back into the house if you closed the damper too far and then the intake damper opens later on...intake open...exhaust closed=bad deal!
-Manometer...YES! I wouldn't run a wood furnace without one, too much potential for overdraft when heating from the basement. And you need one to properly set (and maintain) a manometer (look over in the for sale section...IMO there's a good deal on manometers there )
I'm sure you have read about the temp and speed controls that I have installed on my Tundra...totally optional, but IMO that has reformed my Tundra from a college frat boy into a refined gentleman. Obviously you would probably want to get used to running a stock Tundra first...and of course you would need to be somewhat electrically knowledgeable to install these features...but SOOOO worth the little bit of money that I have invested into these mods!

Ya they come with a moisture meter now. I opened mine today

 

[Lcback]

Ya they come with a moisture meter now. I opened mine today

Happy to hear that. Any more suprises? Did you happen to measure the width of it in the crate? I wonder if it will fit in my basement door with out taking out the jam. I am lucky thought to have a walk out basement. I never realized what a treat that was until I joined hearth.

 

[jb6l6gc]

No didnt measure in crate but i can measure the skid for you tommorow. I had to remove mine from crate and dismantle allot of it to get it down my stairs . Tommorow morn is the big move, this things heavy 600lb. I think i got it down under 400. You are very lucky to have a walkout basement, I wish

 

[Lcback]

No didnt measure in crate but i can measure the skid for you tommorow. I had to remove mine from crate and dismantle allot of it to get it down my stairs . Tommorow morn is the big move, this things heavy 600lb. I think i got it down under 400. You are very lucky to have a walkout basement, I wish

Good luck tomorrow. If you can measure I will appreciate it.

 

[brenndatomu]

I wonder if it will fit in my basement door with out taking out the jam.

The furnace, or the crate?