Is there a tee type copper fitting that allows a temp gauge to be threaded ( 1/2" or 3/4' ) into the top of it. I want to put a gauge right in front of or right behing my 1 1/4" inch ball valves on inlets and outlets going into the pressurized tanks. I currently have a reducing bushing to a copper nipple and will switch to copper know. My ball valve are 1 1/4" sweat. I assume I will have to install a short piece of copper than ball valve then a tee with a gauge or is this wrong?
WHAT TYPE OF FITTING?
- Thread starter jimde
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
I am sure you already thought of this, but they do make clamp on temperature gages. Menards has them. Others on this board have bought them on ebay for milk bulk tanks as well. There are pipe fittings made for nearly everything. I would try to get a reducing t if possible of the 1-1/4 down to 3/8" or whatever size you need, or get the smallest available. Then a sweat reducer, and a NPT adapter if I am reading you correctly. I am not a plumber, but Ferguson's has some interesting fittings $$$.
Jim this is just kinda because I know what you are building there ,
Temp gauges I would use in the system would be well type 3 of them 1 on your boiler out 1 on your return prior to mixing and then 1 on your mix temp return before the boiler .
I would probably do 3 on each of your 2 storage tanks on the out side of the tanks maybe a few inchs from the top , middle and then like a foot from the bottom .
I would maybe consider a well type again before and after your hot air HX and you will need of course your ones for mixing your radiant in floor so that would be mix temp and then return temp again these would be well type .
These would be the main ones I would use but from my experience some of the sensors now placed on the outside of the pipe with a decent insulation cover respond as fast as the mercury well types do and all these can be done after the fact .
Webie
Temp gauges I would use in the system would be well type 3 of them 1 on your boiler out 1 on your return prior to mixing and then 1 on your mix temp return before the boiler .
I would probably do 3 on each of your 2 storage tanks on the out side of the tanks maybe a few inchs from the top , middle and then like a foot from the bottom .
I would maybe consider a well type again before and after your hot air HX and you will need of course your ones for mixing your radiant in floor so that would be mix temp and then return temp again these would be well type .
These would be the main ones I would use but from my experience some of the sensors now placed on the outside of the pipe with a decent insulation cover respond as fast as the mercury well types do and all these can be done after the fact .
Webie
The Azel dual digital gauge works nicely and the sensors can be clamped on the outside with some insulation over it; when you consider that you get 2 readouts, sensors that can be placed/ read from harder-to-get-at spots, and the absence of a need for any wells or fittings, it's a pretty good overall deal.
http://www.azeltec.com/
http://www.azeltec.com/
Gooserider
Mod Emeritus
I agree with those that say go digital with clamp on sensors - the well approach is nice, but gets really expensive in a hurry, and these days doesn't really work any better than a properly attached clamp-on w/ insulation and heat sink paste.
Plus IMHO it is a real pain having a bunch of discrete gauges that you have to run around and read one at a time, and possibly record manually.... Why go through all that when it is possible to do an electronic setup that gives you all the readings on one display, with the built in ability to do data logging and graphing, etc. as you like...
Gooserider
Plus IMHO it is a real pain having a bunch of discrete gauges that you have to run around and read one at a time, and possibly record manually.... Why go through all that when it is possible to do an electronic setup that gives you all the readings on one display, with the built in ability to do data logging and graphing, etc. as you like...
Gooserider
"Why go through all that when it is possible to do an electronic setup that gives you all the readings on one display, with the built in ability to do data logging and graphing, etc. as you like..."
Gooserider, I agree, what do you recommend for one console and have about 6 digital temperature readouts. Personally I'm too data logging dum to install anything but simple sensors and gauges.
Gooserider, I agree, what do you recommend for one console and have about 6 digital temperature readouts. Personally I'm too data logging dum to install anything but simple sensors and gauges.
jebatty
Minister of Fire
Take a look at the picture of the digital meter readouts HERE (ignore the data logging part unless you're interested). The meters are available for as little as $10 each, including the sensor. The K-type meter to measure stack/flue temp was $20. The K-type probe I believe was $15. The electrical box was $30. All operates on 12vdc, which is supplied from a plug-in wall dc transformer, like that used for all sorts of electrical stuff these days.
No plumbing, no fittings, movable, low voltage, locate your panel where at a glance you can evaluate your entire system. Attach the sensor, insulate, run the wires, done. I use fiberglass insulation covered by foam insulation with cable ties.
No plumbing, no fittings, movable, low voltage, locate your panel where at a glance you can evaluate your entire system. Attach the sensor, insulate, run the wires, done. I use fiberglass insulation covered by foam insulation with cable ties.
Jim, you say the meters with the sensor are available for about $10.00 each. What kind are they and where can I get them?
jebatty
Minister of Fire
Do an ebay search on "digital panel meter thermometer." They're available with several different types of sensors. If looking for one to measure flue/stack temp, you can add "k-type." If you want a probe for the flue/stack, search "k-type probe." For probes, I didn't see anything higher than 752F right now, but I have seen them rated much higher as well. You also can find probes at www.omega.com.
I had some difficulty with the meters that have two sensors using the Dallas 1 wire sensors. I could only get them to work on Ch 1 and inconsistent on Ch 2, but an alternating read-out sometimes gets irritating anyway, so not a big deal. Maybe the ones using different sensors don't have this problem.
The meters are bright, have been in operation now for about a month, and other than mentioned, no issues of any kind. Also, the supplier of the dual ch meters has been cooperative in making an adjustment for the problems I experienced.
I had some difficulty with the meters that have two sensors using the Dallas 1 wire sensors. I could only get them to work on Ch 1 and inconsistent on Ch 2, but an alternating read-out sometimes gets irritating anyway, so not a big deal. Maybe the ones using different sensors don't have this problem.
The meters are bright, have been in operation now for about a month, and other than mentioned, no issues of any kind. Also, the supplier of the dual ch meters has been cooperative in making an adjustment for the problems I experienced.
If my boiler was up in the garage and my tanks are in the basement, wouldnt I want have to be able to monitor tank temps from up by the boiler ? Jebatty, is that your control box or just temp monitors and where do I get a box that will have 6 readouts for the 2 tanks?
jebatty
Minister of Fire
Most sensors will operate over a pretty good distance, but exactly how far I don't know. My furthest ones are about 20' from the meters. The box you see is for monitoring only. It is a 12" x 12" x 6" electrical box, plastic, and I did the cutouts for the meters and installed them using electrical putty on the inside to fix them in place. I will be adding 3 more meters later. My controls were not in the picture. They all are close to the boiler and have been set all winter without any need for further adjustment. They consist of a two stage boiler control, a differential controller, plus 3 aquastats: 1) one is a boiler overheat close on rise to open the overheat loop and turn on circulators; its sensor is in a well in the boiler; 2) 2nd is close on rise and also opens the overheat loop; its sensor is mounted on the boiler supply as it exits the boiler - redundant to (1) but I also use it to get a litle extra heat on occasion; and 3) 3rd is a low temp aquastat close on fall which I use to activate a backup electric hot water system to prevent boiler freeze up which could occur if I'm gone for a long time during winter.
- Status
Similar threads
