Whats a good stove for this cabin attached to a shop?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

RUMBLON

New Member
Nov 26, 2016
24
Cambridge Idaho
I originally posted a thread about some issues Im having with a stove/ Jotul Oslo 500.

after posting my thread I added some wood to the stove and some how broke my glass which broke with ease. Not sure why or if adding stove conditioner for creosote could make the glass brittle?

In any case Im taking it as a sign as I think the stove is too big for my cabin any ways and maybe I need a stove.

so Im looking for a stove and suggestions on heating a long three room cabin thats basically 16x 62.

here are some pics.




RUMBLON
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6329.JPG
    IMG_6329.JPG
    169.7 KB · Views: 112
  • IMG_6331.JPG
    IMG_6331.JPG
    178.5 KB · Views: 158
  • IMG_6718.JPG
    IMG_6718.JPG
    109.5 KB · Views: 130
  • IMG_6719.JPG
    IMG_6719.JPG
    115.4 KB · Views: 131
Stove ceramic glass is pretty tough. The usual way it breaks is by a split pressing against the glass when the door is closed. The Oslo is a good stove but as indicated in your other thread it needs a proper size and height flue.

Getting heat thru a long building is a challenge, especially when the rooms are connected with doors. A fan in the next room, set on the floor and pointed toward the stove room (with the door open) can be run on low speed to help distribute the heat. It will push cooler air down low toward the heated room which will be replaced up high with warm air from the stove room.

With a shorter chimney you'll need a stove that breathes easy. The Pacific Energy Super 27 should work if you can add another 2-4ft to the chimney. It will need a brace at the 5ft level.
 
My stack is only about 14' & the stove draws fine, even in warm weather. PE stoves seem to draft well. If mine ever has a problem, it is because the brown powder from the chimney has built up enough on top of the baffle to affect the draw = time to clean stove/chimney.

As to the glass. Mine cracked this summer on its own. No fire for days, maybe weeks, & we heard this loud "tink" noise a couple of times while watching the tube. Next morning we saw the crack -- a quarter circle around one of the retainer clips. Glass warranties are worthless, as they require a so-called thermal break which essentially will (almost) never ever happen.
 
It would draw better if that stovepipe would go straight up.
Also, did you mention in previous thread that it connected to an 8" chimney? If so, change to all 6" chimney probably help your draw.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.