What's dry enough for you to burn?

Post in 'The Wood Shed' started by mattinpa, Dec 2, 2008.

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  1. mattinpa

    mattinpa
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    Seasoning time aside, what moisture percentage is your cut-off for burning? Not talking about outdoor furnaces.
    Indoor only, please.
     
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  2. LLigetfa

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    I don't have a moisture meter and never had an urge to buy one. I can tell just by the weight if it's going to be too wet. If I'm picking through dry wood, looking for select pieces for starter, I will feel it with my bare hands and smell it.
     
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  3. Jags

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    I try to stay below 20% MC. The difference between that and 25% is very noticeable.
     
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  4. Adios Pantalones

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    I don't have a meter either, so I wait until it's as dry as a popcorn fart in the desert. I keep one by the pile for reference.
     
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  5. Jags

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    How the heck do you catch it for comparison??? A net surely wouldn't work.
     
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  6. Adios Pantalones

    Adios Pantalones
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    Carbon filtration my man, carbon filtration.

    Nice chair you got there. I can't wait to see your "Lark" scooter when you get old.
     
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  7. Jags

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    I'm just trying to figure out if it will have NOX or a blower.
     

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  8. madrone

    madrone
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    carbon filtration.
     
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  9. Jags

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    Well played.

    Now back to "how dry does the wood have to be...."
     
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  10. RedRanger

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    Even though we only have softwood to burn. I still like to be at 20% or slightly less. Seems to work for me.

    EG-clean glass once a month,that`s it!!

    CREOSOTE is EVIL!!!!
     
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  11. LLigetfa

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    Nice scooter with the pink seat. Does it run on popcorn farts (methane)?
     
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  12. struggle

    struggle
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    Just tonight I bought a cheap moisture meter from harbor gone bad freight and I tested it on a few splits.

    Some oak that I have been having problems getting any heat out of tested at 25%

    Some ash that has been marginal tested at 19%

    Ash from my storage site that has been split for three years test at 10% and it burns the best.

    I paid $15 for the meter and it seems to operate in direct comparison of how my wood burned. The wet stuff was terrible. The 19% burned OK but the 10% really put out the heat.

    I have some ash outside that is from a tree I cut down this summer that has been split since I brought it home and I will test some of those pieces to see what they read tomorrow.

    I do not buy into that split ash and burn it three months later after the reading I got tonight from the marginal stuff as it had been seasoned for 6 months.
     
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  13. RedRanger

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    The moisture meter is a good guide.. It is not the be and end all.

    Discussion on a different post. smoke still coming out of the chimney. well, you may split a dozen or so pieces and they may all measure 20% moisture or less.. doesn`t mean that a piece or two may not sneak into the stove/insert that is well above that reading.

    Mostly, when you get to know the wood you are burning and how much it weighs wet as opposed to dry-that is your best guide.

    Nothing wrong with moisture meters, I have one and wouldn`t be without it. but it is not a panacea..

    It is simply a tool to help you get to the right place--that is all it is..
     
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  14. Bigg_Redd

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    No idea. I've never worried about moisture content. Fir needs 4 months in the woodshed, maple needs a year. The end.
     
  15. gibson

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    Zen question of the week. If you burn fires and window stays clean, does that mean you are burning seasoned wood?
     
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  16. CowboyAndy

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    on a related note, can a split be wet and not hiss/sizzle/foam like a rabid dog?
     
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  17. Jags

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    No. It just means that you have the temp of the stove high enough to keep the glass clean.......Oooohm!
     
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  18. smokinj

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    I burn what i know is season the most frist and so on!
     
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