What's everybody Packin'...................

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Jags said:
ComputerUser - every time you post pics - I get saw envy.

I run a MS-361. I have a couple of others that mostly sit. The 361 with an 18" bar does the most work, and I strap a 25" bar on for the big wood. Great machine with no regrets.


I hope saw envy is a good thing. And I hope folks enjoy the pictures - I know I enjoy when others post pictures of their saw work, so hopefully others share that feeling about my pics. Gotta take full advantage of the hi-speed internet connection...

Here are a couple others from Saturday's cutting - the 076 cutting a willow, and the woodsported 154 ripping the remains of a "straw tree" while a buddy cuts another piece with my 7900.
 

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gary said:
I've got a Poulan (32 cc) and a Homelite rebuilt (hand-me-down from the father-in-law). I afraid the Poulan's on it's last legs but it has served me well for the last 9 years. Both have 14" bars which have worked well for me although I don't tackle much over 12" diameter. One downside might be the shorter the bar, the fewer the teeth. Hence they may dull up a bit sooner.

Not really... You should be touching up the chain after every tank, so it doesn't make that much difference. OTOH the shorter bar should have lower friction on the chain, so you'll get more engine power going into cutting the wood rather than moving the chain with a short bar...

The rule I've seen several places is that you are best with 3cc of engine for every inch of bar... When I switched my 36cc Pull-on from a 16" bar to a 12" bar, it made a MAJOR difference in the way the saw cut. With the 16" it was barely adequate, definitely under-powered. With the 12" bar it cut really well, and could handle burying the bar in a log without bogging to a standstill.... Trouble is a 12" bar is smaller than a fair bit of the stuff I get, so I wanted a BIG capacity saw... Purchased a Dolmar 7900, with a 20" bar, and a spare 28" bar for it. Haven't used the 28" yet, but with the 20" it goes through oaks like they were made of soft butter. I haven't weighed them yet, but the Dolmar doesn't even feel heavier than the Pull-on (The company mis-spells the name, I'm sure they mean to warn you that you will need to "pull on" it an awful lot...) I will use the Poulan if ALL I'm planning to be doing is limbing and tiny wood cutting, but if I'm doing any large stuff I get out the Dolmar, and use it as my limbing saw - the Poulan isn't enough lighter to make it worth switching...

Gooserider
 
Sthil 290 Farmboss 16" Bar. Nice saw.
 
WOODBUTCHER said:
Mark,
A 16" bar on mine did'nt make a "noticable differance". I swapped a 16" Oregon bar on mine with a new chain and it cut just about the same. WoodButhcer

Thanks, Butcher- was starting to wonder about that. I think I'll leave everything as it is, new chain and bar as needed. Now for the big question- where can I get some stones? No- not those stones, I have a Sharp-N Qwik sharpener, it's a dremel type of sharpener and the stone on it, which is the perfect size is all chewed up..........
 
i run a sthil 026 w/ 16"bar. no regrets after 12 years with her.
 
11 year old Husqvarna 55, purchased new...and for Downeast, a Ruger P-89 9mm. Well, not FOR Downeast, but rather, LIKE Downeast.

EDIT: I mistyped, a Ruger P-85. But I'm sure that's not good enough for Downeast either... :-S
 
BotetourtSteve said:
and for Downeast, a Ruger P-89 9mm. Well, not FOR Downeast, but rather, LIKE Downeast.

Not in the same league Steve. The Ruger will not fire under water ( Glock) , get mudded up and not jam (Glock) , rare misfires (Glock), dropped onto concrete then fired (Glock), simple breakdown and fire (Glock) . Preferred by 8 out of 10 for a safe, reliable sidearm for professional and mil use .....No comparison. Whew, I'm shilling here and off topic. Kind of like our Stihl saws.
 
Hehehe - alright, I'm in.... 20" early 80's 61 Husky, new 357xp last year, and a S&W;686 in .357, stainless. I don't worry about jamming the slide on it, but it only has six shots. About 5 more than needed, but, there might be more than one target!
 
Most of my firewood cutting I use Stihl 361--- The bigger stuff I use ---Jonsered 920--- Climbing to top and limbing--Stihl 180..

( Ruger Blackhawk .44 )
 
Moving on to firearms, I've gotten real close with my Baretta 9mm................
 
"Jonsered 630 Super" with 16" bar, 6 lb. maul, and 2 1/2 lb. axe. Up until 2 posts ago I thought I was the only one who had a Jonsered. Very good saw.
 
Currently, a Poulan Pro PP295, 46 CC, 20" bar. About to take a big step up, and buy the Stihl MS 441, more than likely with an 18-20" bar.
 
Stihl 361. When I get pissed, HK USP40.
 
Okay, I am shopping but,.... poulan woodshark, 16"ish bar, skinny chain but always starts and runs even after being windrowed by my bulldozer. Broken pull rope was field repaired so is a bit short now. Home fabricated mild steel front handle to replace smashed plastic handle. Saw bar bent bck to straight on my trailer hitch after it got smashed by a tree. I cut up 1.5 cords of red alder and willow with it on Saturday. It just won't die and is very dependable. Looking at Stihl MS290 or Dolmar 5100, maybe 6400 with 20" bars.

Oh and Ruger P94 in 40 SW, concealed carry permit.
 
Husky 357 and 390XP's,and a Crossman air-powered,pump-action pellet and BB rifle cw scope for the neighborhood kitties.Now....who wants some?
 
Highbeam said:
Okay, I am shopping but,.... poulan woodshark, 16"ish bar, skinny chain but always starts and runs even after being windrowed by my bulldozer. Broken pull rope was field repaired so is a bit short now. Home fabricated mild steel front handle to replace smashed plastic handle. Saw bar bent bck to straight on my trailer hitch after it got smashed by a tree. I cut up 1.5 cords of red alder and willow with it on Saturday. It just won't die and is very dependable. Looking at Stihl MS290 or Dolmar 5100, maybe 6400 with 20" bars.

Oh and Ruger P94 in 40 SW, concealed carry permit.

Comon Highbeam...you know you want the MS361

get a desert eagle to go with it.
 
Yep, I do want the 361. I would love that saw. The bloody thing costs a whole lot more than the others though and I can't really justify it at this time since cutting our local softwood is not too demanding. I have cut logs over 32 inches across with my poulan using the curlycue method. Then using wedges to pull the core apart. I've earned a better saw.

My next handgun will be a nice little ruger mark2, the legendary 22 rimfire automatic.
 
Buy the Dolmar 5100 Highbeam, It's a lot better saw than the 290. Nothing against Stihl, but the 5100 is a pro-grade saw and the 290 is more consumer level. The Dolmar also has the same power as the 290.
 
stihl 032av antique cr 1982 w/ 16" bar- takes a lickin and keep on tickin. good buck up saw, fast cut, plenty of power, a bit heavy after a long day, no major problems, new bars, chains, mufflers, used for work- timber framing and home wood heating 300 + - cords - 2 sthil 096 with riping bar and sperber mill
:coolsmile: High Iron if you see this my hard hats of to you! 20 years up there myself, apprenticed and worked out of local 79 VA, Transfered to 496 ME, and boomed out to 44 OH, 7 MA, 5 DC, 787 WV, 16 MD. half way to hell club!
win model 98 - 32 special - jotul 118B, stanley wood cook stove, tarm solo 40 - w/759 gal water storage unpressurised, shanandoah box stove, next to the smallest jotul, homemade welded beam w/wheels kohler 8hp 28 in stroke woodspliter, fast enough!
sweetheat
 
I've mostly used a Stihl 170. Nice and light for limbing or smaller trees. Mostly what I cut are 6-12" trees. I have an old, inherited 041 Farm Boss (20") but that sucker is heavy and has no chain brake, and a lot of power. I did take down a 20" ash with it yesterday and it didn't bog down at all.

Yesterday I picked up a Husky 353 with an 18" bar. Wow, it was nice when I tried it out last night. But the 170 will still get used for limbing and smaller stuff.

And either a Sig 228 or 220.

Ken
 
Just pulled the trigger on a Stihl MS660... I'll have butcher post pics from our next cutting party...
 
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