What's the warmest outside temp at which I should try to light my stove?

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williaty

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Jan 12, 2015
103
Licking County, Ohio
I installed a new Ideal Steel stove on Saturday and it's my first woodstove so I'm not an expert burner. I'd like to get the break-in burns out of the way so it'll stop stinking (and then I can close the windows) but the weather isn't fully cooperating. The stove is fed by an OAK, the flue is connected to the top, and has 12' of double wall topped by 5' of Class-A in a straight shot on top of it.

Given the stove install and my lack of experience, what's the warmest outdoor temperature at which I should attempt to light the stove?
 
There is no real limit, though at 90F the house is going to be very uncomfortable. With a straight up install I would just go ahead and do it now to get the paint baked in while windows can be open.
 
It should draft ok at 55F with a bypass for starting and a straight up chimney.
 
It will draft fine at 55 degrees, fire that mother up!

You can light a stove at any temp for the purposes you are describing.
At my house, if it is above 60 degrees, of course the stove will work fine, the problem is it will roast you out of the house in about an hour.
 
I've occasionally had a little trouble with smoke in the house when lighting my stove in warmer temps but found an easy solution although it might not apply directly with your setup. My pipe goes straight up from the stove for about a meter, to a ninety degree, after which it goes horizontal for two meters thru the wall to a T, and then straight up along the side of the house for eight meters. In warmer temps I go outside, remove the bottom cap on the T and stuff a sheet of newspaper up the chimney and light it. Within a second or two there is a very loud whoosh as the burning paper gets sucked up the chimney indicating that a good draft has been established. I replace the cap and light my stove and it works perfectly.
 
I've found outside temp to be less of an issue than temp inversion layers that are going on. Normally my stove drafts fine, in most conditions. Yet, 55deg outside, foggy, still, with the fog layer right at the top of the chimney proved to be a no go. Sometimes the smoke outside comes out of the chimney and goes straight up -never a problem. Other times it will drift straight to the ground and stay there - possibly a problem.
 
Just to add... If the ideal steel uses paint anything g like Englander, you're going to want to light it up when it's warm enough outside to open up some windows. My stove smelled terrible on the first fire with the paint curing.

It was somewhere in the 60's on a sunny afternoon though, so I just opened up the windows in the house. Good thing, I think more smoke came off of the stove than out of the chimney.
 
When I do stove or chimney changes even in August my wife says "It's about to get real hot in this joint.". Gotta smoke check it before ya need it.
 
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I have a Jotul Castine with close to the same height chimney and find that the draft is poor until temps get to about 40 deg f. You’ll need well seasoned wood (well below 20%) and give it more air than if colder and I would expect you’ll be able to burn in the stove.
Jim
 
I have a Jotul Castine with close to the same height chimney and find that the draft is poor until temps get to about 40 deg f. You’ll need well seasoned wood (well below 20%) and give it more air than if colder and I would expect you’ll be able to burn in the stove.
Jim
If possible you might try adding another 3 ft of flue. Our Castine was reasonably well behaved up to 45F. Could burn at 50F but with a little smoke spillage when the door opened. We have 20ft of flue.
 
Unfortunately it is already 7’ above the roof; would look really out of place if any taller.
 
The shallow firebox with a large door can be touchy in low draft. Rear exit is a bit more prone to spillage than top exit.
 
My experience was at least 3-4 good burns to cure the stove, so I'd say get started as soon as it's below 60.
 
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