when to shut airflo all the way down?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

vixster

Member
Nov 20, 2010
148
Rockland Co , ny
After getting the the stove running HOT 580* I started to cut back the airflo in 3 stages. I have noticed that when I cut it back all the way (off) the temperature drops down what I think fairly quickly. When it dropped to 500, I opened the flo a tad, (1/4) because I was afraid of it cooling down more (I'm enjoying the heat). Does this happen to others? Do you leave a little airflo? Also, I noticed that when I close it all the way, I see very little flames, and almost no secondary burns. Does this too happen to others as well?
 
sounds normal to me. Closing it all the way is like letting your foot all the way off the accelerator in the car. You can do it when it's necessary.

Since I'm assuming you are new to wood burning, I'll caution that many new burners think they are burning seasoned wood when in fact what they are using is not ready yet.

Here's a few recommended threads to read if you think your stove is burning too cool. https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/65174/

best of luck,

pen
 
I'm sorry, I may have been misleading. I purposely let it go to 580. I have only had this stove for 7 days and I'm learning to control it, therefor shutting down. I was more curios about when I shut all the way. I unfortunately have no control the quality of the wood, all I can do is purchase wood from another vendor and see how that fairs. Thanks for the links
 
Maybe this year you are at the mercy of the wood sellers. But what I suggest is that you buy next year's wood this year so that you can have it stacked and dried so you know it's premium and ready to go.

Nothing wrong w/ taking the stove to 580 at all. During the active burn, mine cruises anywhere from 550 to 650. If you keep it around your 580 mark while actively burning, you are doing just fine. Again, you only need to shut it down all the way if that's what it takes to maintain a safe temp for the burn.

pen
 
Every stove burns different, the same stove on different chimney setups can burn dramatically different. The sweet spot for your stove with your set up may be leaving the air slightly open.

As Pen suggested you do have control over the supply moving forward even if it's not for this season. Purchase next years wood now and you know you'll be good to go next season. The first season is always tough.
 
You'll find that different wood requires different air flow settings too. With very dry oak, my Mansfield does very well with the air all the way off. With pine, I need to keep it open just a bit.
 
That's a good/great idea about buying now for next year. I hadn't thought about that, however, I have such limited space, it will be a puzzle as to where to put the extra wood. Our houses are close together with limited backyards. My goal of 600* was because in the shelburne manual, they speak 600* as a high burn and I can't figure out if they are saying that is the near overburn temps.. So, I was using that as my goal. I am feeling more confidents with the burns and understanding it. But man, it uses a lot more wood then I ever thought I would. I am having so much fun with this stove and this forum!!! This has been my leisure time for the past week. OH BOY!
 
The first year with a new stove you will use more wood than you ever will again. Everybody does.

Keep us updated on that Shelburne. I would love to take one for a test drive.
 
BrotherBart said:
The first year with a new stove you will use more wood than you ever will again. Everybody does.

Keep us updated on that Shelburne. I would love to take one for a test drive.

Spot on!

Additionally, you'll burn more wood if it is not perfectly seasoned. So, even though you have a limited space, it's worth the time and trouble to make sure you have as much truly seasoned wood as possible on hand.

I too wish I could try that stove out in my space.

pen
 
I close my air control all the way and then tap it open it just a tiny bit most nights. I get good draft and when it is real cold (minus 5 on) I can close it totally. This is my first year with the stove too so I am still learning it.
 
One of the advantages of having both a stove top thermometer and flue thermometer . . . and learning how one's stove behaves . . . is being able to know when to start shutting the air down and how much it can be shut so that the stove is run safely and efficiently . . .

In my own case I start shutting down the air after my flue temp is in "the zone" and the stove top temp is anywhere from 400-600 . . . I start shutting down incrementally and depending on the wood, draft, etc. I either shut it down all the way for a long burn or leave it open just a dite.
 
My Hearthstone's high burn temp is 600 too. After 600 it is considered overfired and could be damaged. Because of this I only intentionally run up to 550. Here's the thing, if you need to run your shelburne to near the redline temp just to stay warm then your stove is too small. You will blow through tons of wood and be harder on your stove than was designed. We all need to test things out and try out these high temps but I wouldn't plan on running that stove over 500 on a regular basis, 350-450 is more typical to be in the design temps of your stove. Your stove manual, at least my hearthstone manual, discusses air settings and tells you that the normal run setting should be mostly closed. The overnight low burn setting of 100% closed is not recommended as the primary air setting.

When reading replies from other folks consider the stoves that they are burning and that if they are not Hearthstones that their max temperatures are much higher.

As far as operation, I shut the air down as soon as I can but still maintain the secondary combustion. After startup or reload where air supply is full open, I generally run the stove with the air control about 1/2" from closed.
 
I run wide open on intial reload. Then turn down in stages to basicly fully closed. Then, if home, as burn cycle turns to coal stage, open her back up to about halfway. Also a BIG +1 to Highbeam about looking at what stove people have. Hearthstones, are different than a steel or cast iron stoves so take all information into consideration.
 
Just a quickie, I am not sure if you are aware, however, the Hearthstone Shelburne is a CAST IRON stove, NO SOAPSTONE in or outside of box.
 
vixster said:
Just a quickie, I am not sure if you are aware, however, the Hearthstone Shelburne is a CAST IRON stove, NO SOAPSTONE in or outside of box.

Another Homer Simpson moment....... DOH !!!!!!!!

OK proceed.
 
johnstra said:
You'll find that different wood requires different air flow settings too. With very dry oak, my Mansfield does very well with the air all the way off. With pine, I need to keep it open just a bit.
+1 - My Mansfield will cruise at 550-600* with the air completed closed and my pipe damper 1/2 closed. I don't think I'd let your stove top get to 580* before beginning to close your primary air. You'll be losing a lot of your heat up the flue and burning through your load fast (+ in my setup, I'd be off to really high stove top temps, with less ability to dial down the heat quickly). It'll take longer to reach the higher temps on the stove top, but I'd start closing your primary air in several steps - with 5 min or so between steps, once your load is well charred and you can maintain the secondaries as you lower the air setting. Cheers!
 
I'm amazed that folks can close the air all the way down without choking out the fire. If I did that, with a hot stove and a good mix of dry wood, it would go out.
 
Cate said:
I'm amazed that folks can close the air all the way down without choking out the fire. If I did that, with a hot stove and a good mix of dry wood, it would go out.

Must depend on draft. I have an oversized interior masonry chimney with ~ 11"sq tiles. My draft is very strong - even when the primary is closed all the way, I usually need to close the pipe damper at least 1/2 to keep the fire where I want it. But, you are right - I think many folks with 'proper' chimney dimensions and modern air-tight stoves can keep the air open more - especially when it's cold and you need more heat from the stove. Cheers!
 
vixster said:
After getting the the stove running HOT 580* I started to cut back the airflo in 3 stages. I have noticed that when I cut it back all the way (off) the temperature drops down what I think fairly quickly. When it dropped to 500, I opened the flo a tad, (1/4) because I was afraid of it cooling down more (I'm enjoying the heat). Does this happen to others? Do you leave a little airflo? Also, I noticed that when I close it all the way, I see very little flames, and almost no secondary burns. Does this too happen to others as well?

Vixster, you will find that very few close their drafts completely. Most leave the draft open a bit. How much? You have to experiment. I can give an example with a different stove. I have the Fireview and the draft is marked 1-4. Our best setting is usually about .75. Others find it is from 1 to 1.5 with the same stove. So nobody can tell you exactly where your draft needs to be set; you'll have to do that by experimenting.

You have been given some good advice by other posters. I especially like Pen's advice in getting next year's wood on hand now. And when you do start burning good dry wood you may very well find you have to change your settings. Your wood will burn better and you'll get more heat from each log.
 
Everyone!
Thank you for all this invaluable feed back. I have gain much knowledge in this thread. I am curious with other Shelburne owners, how do you interpret over fire temps for the stove. Am I reading it correctly with 600 too hot/over fire. I will experiment with closing down at 500 and see where it cruises. I do admit, I like running it hot. Thanks again everyone. I am too much fun, and burning a lot of wood! (that's why I will try 500*)-Vixster
 
Cate said:
I'm amazed that folks can close the air all the way down without choking out the fire. If I did that, with a hot stove and a good mix of dry wood, it would go out.

Same here. If I shut my primary air valve the fire will slowly go out. It just means that some stoves are a little tighter and allow to little air in with the valve totally shut, but just 1/8 to 1/4 inch of movement it will burn long and slow with the secondaries firing. Some people have a stronger draft which also greatly affects things.
 
vixster said:
Just a quickie, I am not sure if you are aware, however, the Hearthstone Shelburne is a CAST IRON stove, NO SOAPSTONE in or outside of box.

Even though the Shelburne is cast iron on the outside it appears to have a 600 degree redline from the manufacturer. I'm not certain but seem to recall that the innards of this stove are soapstone.
 
Highbeam... nah... i double check.. no soap.
 
Completely shutting down a non-cat EPA stove is not the same thing as completely shutting down an older non-EPA stove or even a cat stove. Modern EPA stoves such as the shelburne have a big old hole allowing air to the stove even when you think you have closed the primary air control.

Even new Lopis have this wonderful feature. I remember running my last stove, a Lopi Freedom Bay, well past 800 with the primary air 100% shut.
 
Cate said:
I'm amazed that folks can close the air all the way down without choking out the fire. If I did that, with a hot stove and a good mix of dry wood, it would go out.

I can do so . . . but the key for me is that the stove has been running for a bit and is up to temp, I shut down the air incrementally and perhaps most important of all -- the wood is well seasoned.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.