where to buy stove pipe?

[cam4]

hi there---first post, and I'm in a hurry. I know, bad etiquette. but it's cold here in Chicago, IL this week (despite a wonderful Indian summer), and I need to install a few (4) stoves! apologies in advance for any breach of protocol regarding vendors etc..

I've tried Home Depot, Menards, Lowes etc, looking for very standard 6" black stove pipe--all they want to sell me is 5" galvanized double-wall pipe for venting furnaces, appliances, etc. I called three fireplace/stove stores, and they only seem interested in making a buck from installs, and do not sell accessories. I know one great independent hardware store in Boulder, CO that would fit the bill, but again.. I'm in IL, Chicago area. Any help would be much appreciated.. maybe try Harbor Freight?

btw, two of my stoves are really neat old parlour stoves, a Michigan Stove Co Oak Garland Junior no.14, and a little something stamped REX out of New Athens, IL.. both of these stoves have an oval opening where you'd put your first section of pipe--looks like you could maybe just take a 6" pipe and step on it, squish one side to around 7"x4 1/2", and slip it on. doesn't really work. does anyone still make an adapter for this old style of stove?

thanks in advance!

 

[Stephen in SoKY]

Check out Tractor Supply Company, they may have stores in your area. Also try Ace Hardware.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I've bought cheap pipe from Lowes, and much better pipe from hearth shops in the area. 2 of them in fact. I'd continue to call around. Ace and True Value are good spots to try also. Worst case scenario is you buy it on line.

As far as the oval, stepping on it will do it, but you may need to use a crimper to neck it down further.


*I'm having issues linking a pic, but I picked it up at a plumbing supply store*



It has 3 bars on one side and 2 bars on the other. It makes a crinkley shape like a potato chip. Or one end of regular stove pipe.

Matt

 

[cam4]

thanks much for the tips--I'll try your suggestions and look a little further locally before going online. I hate to ship air all over the country.

 

[THEMAN]

You may want to drop Magnaflex a PM he is a member of the forum here that has a company that manufactures stove pipe. He will custom makes stuff too, he maybe able to get the pipe ovalized to your required dimensions. Here is a link to the online store http://www.magnaflex.us/ I have ordered from him and he is very helpful and quick with response to questions and ships fast and sometimes free

 

[garyh]

Check out ventingpipe.com; just purchased all pipe for a new install, they were the best price I could find and shipped rather quickly, no shipping added.
Good Luck.

 

[jeromehdmc]

I just went to the Menards near me and picked up some 6" pipe. They had both single and double walled. The double wall is Selkirk. The funny thing was it isn't near the duct work stuff, it was in the plumbing area. The price was better than what I found online.

 

[cam4]

Ok, made some progress. there's a heating & plumbing supply store at 58th and Halsted, G & S. they stock everything, but I'm west side.. will check them tomorrow.

The Menards near me has only Amerivent Class B Standard Vent.. in 3" through 6". seems to me this stuff is 30 gauge steel sheet metal, with aluminum inner layer. Says right there not to use it for solid fuel stoves. Now, I'm working on my first stove install, and don't know whether to believe--is this true? sort of, or really true? Can I use gas venting, or is it going to have to be Class A all the way?

Here's a little sketch of my chimney situation, for the living room stove--a very old medium-sized potbelly, in good shape. It'll be situated three feet out from a unpainted brick wall (north), about 4 feet in from the west wall (also brick). there's a chimney where these walls meet, old unlined masonry of course, but our hot water heater, gas stove and gas furnaces (very old, very low efficiency) vent into it. in fact, the thimble there is occupied by a 4" single wall gas vent.

Can I go up out of the stove and T into the existing gas vent? the wood exhaust would have to travel four feet or so through the 4" pipe before entering the chimney. If I can do this, should I use 6" class A (single or double?) up to the T, or can I reduce immediately out of the stove from 6" to 4", and run up through 4" double wall class B?

Ok, now I should ask for patience in the face of ignorance, and thank you all for your time. It will probably help keep me from running back to Menards and dropping $50 just to burn my building down. It's a nice old building, and I don't want that. This forum has been very helpful so far, and I do appreciate it.

bests!

 

[EatenByLimestone]

The Menards near me has only Amerivent Class B Standard Vent.. in 3" through 6". seems to me this stuff is 30 gauge steel sheet metal, with aluminum inner layer. Says right there not to use it for solid fuel stoves. Now, I'm working on my first stove install, and don't know whether to believe--is this true? sort of, or really true? Can I use gas venting, or is it going to have to be Class A all the way?


If it says don't use it for solid fuel, take it's word for it. You are literally playing with fire.


Here's a little sketch of my chimney situation, for the living room stove--a very old medium-sized potbelly, in good shape. It'll be situated three feet out from a unpainted brick wall (north), about 4 feet in from the west wall (also brick). there's a chimney where these walls meet, old unlined masonry of course, but our hot water heater, gas stove and gas furnaces (very old, very low efficiency) vent into it. in fact, the thimble there is occupied by a 4" single wall gas vent.

Can I go up out of the stove and T into the existing gas vent? the wood exhaust would have to travel four feet or so through the 4" pipe before entering the chimney. If I can do this, should I use 6" class A (single or double?) up to the T, or can I reduce immediately out of the stove from 6" to 4", and run up through 4" double wall class B?

Really bad, dangerous idea. Don't share the chimney flue much less the vent pipe. Also going down from 6" to 4" is a no-no.


Ok, now I should ask for patience in the face of ignorance, and thank you all for your time. It will probably help keep me from running back to Menards and dropping $50 just to burn my building down. It's a nice old building, and I don't want that. This forum has been very helpful so far, and I do appreciate it.

bests!

May I suggest some non-flammable insulation to help keep you warm?

Matt

 

[webby3650]

I had to be a downer but it sounds like you should contact a professional. You CANNOT use Bvent at all, CANNOT reduce to 4", CANNOT share a vent with a gas appliance, CANNOT share a flue with anything else. This is all very dangerous stuff. You would only need double wall connector pipe if you do not meet the clearance requirements to combustibles.

 

[cam4]

thanks, that's what I needed to hear. although you DO NOT have to SCREAM your advice. I asked because I didn't know, and when starting a new project having basic terms and limits defined really helps. So, no sharing flues, no sharing vents, no class B. pretty much what I'd figured, but you have to ask the dumb question to find out. I'll keep my common sense and native intelligence at hand, and ask for professional advice when I get stuck--but yes or no will do, in your inside voice. thanks for the tips! so now I'll run 6" class A with clearance, into an empty flue.

I have read elsewhere that for very long flue runs, (over 30ft or so, elevation depending?) installers will sometimes reduce down to 4" pipe to prevent excessive draft. If I patch into my old flue, I'd end up around 25' floor to tip top. so why is 4" pipe a problem (assuming proper 26 or better gauge). It's not as if I'd be running a bunch of 6" pipe and then suddenly dropping down to 4"--I could see how that would make a problem. but if I vent right out of the stove at 4", why the problem? this is not a big stove, recall.

re sharing flues--it does beg the question--I live in an old three story factory building--turn of the last century construction, with three flues--two on center, east and west, and one in the northwest corner (actually, it's two old buildings patched together, long ago). each of these flues, of chimneys, not sure of the terminology, have multiple access points ('thimbles', I gather). about six per flue, in fact. Right now a water heat, two small gas furnaces, and a gas cooking stove all vent into the west flue--so what is all this about not sharing flues between appliances? seems it was built to do just that. and this building is old enough that the builders would have had in mind wood and coal-burning stoves--big ones, at that. what gives?

thanks again for your help. one way or another, this stove will be in by the end of the weekend!

 

[pen]

In response to the "inside voice"

With all do respect.....

These threads are read many times over by people who are looking for advice similar to yours, not EXACTLY like yours. As such I think it DOES help to emphasis important information.

Many people would prefer to search for information to see if their question has been answered before they ask a question.

Often times threads contain info that is either slightly off-beat, or becomes an additional question. Again, emphasis typically happens only when people have a serious and concise point to make.

Please don't take good knowledge spelled out with capitalization as being offensive.

If you do, you will immediately jump over many thousands of posts made on many boards filled with good information. Etiquette has it's place and importance, but sometimes being crass makes a better point when efficiency is what is really important.


pen

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I have read elsewhere that for very long flue runs, (over 30ft or so, elevation depending?) installers will sometimes reduce down to 4" pipe to prevent excessive draft. If I patch into my old flue, I'd end up around 25' floor to tip top. so why is 4" pipe a problem (assuming proper 26 or better gauge). It's not as if I'd be running a bunch of 6" pipe and then suddenly dropping down to 4"--I could see how that would make a problem. but if I vent right out of the stove at 4", why the problem? this is not a big stove, recall.

area of a 4" pipe is 12.56" sq. Area of a 6" pipe is 28.26" sq. While it doesn't seem like 2" would make a difference, the larger pipe has over twice the area. It would be like taking the 3" exhaust off my truck and replacing it with the pipe from a Prius. I don't think you would have an issue with the 6" pipe and 25 feet. If you do, an easy fix is a damper installed just above the stove.

re sharing flues--it does beg the question--I live in an old three story factory building--turn of the last century construction, with three flues--two on center, east and west, and one in the northwest corner (actually, it's two old buildings patched together, long ago). each of these flues, of chimneys, not sure of the terminology, have multiple access points ('thimbles', I gather). about six per flue, in fact. Right now a water heat, two small gas furnaces, and a gas cooking stove all vent into the west flue--so what is all this about not sharing flues between appliances? seems it was built to do just that. and this building is old enough that the builders would have had in mind wood and coal-burning stoves--big ones, at that. what gives?

Sharing flues has been done, but there is a danger of drawing the poisonous exhaust fumes from the other appliance back into the house through the shared flue. There was a time when children didn't ride in car seats too. I used to love sliding back and forth in the back of my mother's station wagon every time she accelerated and stopped. Point is, just because they did it doesn't mean it was a good idea. Just had another thought: I wonder what OSHA would have said about the shared flues in a factory?

Matt

 

[tiber]

Did you ask the employees or did you actually look for the stove pipe?

The lowes and home depots here (Valley Forge, PA) all carry the stuff but the employees tend not to know about it nor understand the project. The irony here being we don't have city gas service - so everyone has to buy fuel. That being said the local Home Depot and Lowes keep it in the ducting isle which has all the pipes for everything else, but has the Class A stuff mixed in. Try telling them you're building a chimney.

 

[Cowboy Billy]

I got my 6" black stove pipe from TSC (tractor supply company) That was where I got the best price. Menard's and Lows had it in stock here in SE Michigan too. Home Depo no longer caries it even though they sell stoves.

I have a Round Oak 16 I put in thanksgiving weekend. On these old stoves the stove pipe went on the outside of the flange of the stove. Now days all the female ends go down so any moisture or running creosote ends up inside the stove rather than dripping down the pipe and outside of the stove.

They do make ovalised adapters but they are hard to find and pricey. I bent the pipe and put it on the outside the way it was made to go 100+ years ago. But it was not easy. It took me a hour or more to get it on. I bent it close and got it started. Then I had to keep tapping around it to expand the metal then tap it down. I even used a propane torch to heat the pipe up some to help out.



If you can set the stove up outside with the pipe on it and burn the paint off of the pipe. Even if you can't do all of it at once. It will give off this nasty black smoke and look like it is going to catch on fire. It gave me a serious headache too.



Here's my stove

My stove pipe goes up and through the wall. My pipe is backwards to what is now the correct way to install the pipe to through the wall pipe. Once it goes through the wall. Once it goes through the wall it goes into a "T" and changes to the correct way to have the pipe with female ends down. The bottom of the "T" has a cap that I can pull off to clean the pipe. It also has a drip hole drilled in it to let any water to run out of the pipe and on the ground behind the building.

Billy

 

[webby3650]

In response to the "inside voice"

With all do respect.....

These threads are read many times over by people who are looking for advice similar to yours, not EXACTLY like yours. As such I think it DOES help to emphasis important information.

Many people would prefer to search for information to see if their question has been answered before they ask a question.

Often times threads contain info that is either slightly off-beat, or becomes an additional question. Again, emphasis typically happens only when people have a serious and concise point to make.

Please don't take good knowledge spelled out with capitalization as being offensive.

If you do, you will immediately jump over many thousands of posts made on many boards filled with good information. Etiquette has it's place and importance, but sometimes being crass makes a better point when efficiency is what is really important.


pen

That is exactly what I was trying to do. Sorry if I offended.

 

[geoxman]

Home Depo no longer caries it even though they sell stoves.

freaking unbelievable! I hate to dig up an old thread but I got a $200 gift card to the depot and I needed to replace my furnace gaskets, baro damper and a section of black stove pipe.

I headed up to the depot and went by the stoves and asked where are your chimney accessories or stove pipe. The salesperson said "we quit selling that stuff" I asked for the manager and he confirmed that HD does not sell that stuff anymore?? They sell the stoves though??

I asked for the gift card from my parents for my birthday because I need to replace some stuff before burning season. HD cant give me a refund for the gift card and now I have to buy from Lowes. The Lowes by my house sells....get this! Stoves AND accessories! What a concept that Lowes company has! Buy a stove here and we will also sell you a chimney liner, hearth pad, leather gloves, damper and anything you might need for this shiny new stove!

 

[vvvv]

cant beat getting lucky on ebay