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Posted By RedNeck Wrangler,
Aug 11, 2008 at 8:48 PM
One that does not require every seam, crimp or rivet to be sealed with RTV.
selkirk direct temp
Excel pellet vent needs none of that and never leeks.
Selkirk's installation manual Page 2 #13 tells you to use silicone.
Excel's installation manual on Page 6 #4 tells you to use silicone.
We’ve combined our proven EZ Seal gasket technology
with years of experience in special stainless
steel fabrication to give you an easy-to-install vent
system with a strong positive seal that’s able to
handle both positive and negative pressure direct
Dual Use: Conventional or
Selkirk’s DT-M provides more than just a laser-welded
double-wall system made from the toughest alloys.
It also supports concentric venting, exhausting
flue gases through the inner conduit while taking
in combustion air through the annular space between
the flue and the outer jacket. The combined
flue exhaust/combustion air intake eliminates the
need for two separate penetrations through the
wall or roof. Cut only one installation hole, install
necessary hangers once, install one termination/air
One-Inch Clearance To Combustibles
The airspace between the inner flue gas conduit
and the outer jacket considerably reduces the
required clearance to combustible materials. This
enables Selkirk’s DT-M to be easily installed in confined
spaces. Saf-T Vent DT-M is engineered from
the appliance vent adapter to the outside termination
with a full array of parts that meet or exceed
appliance manufacturers’ recommendations.
DT-M is part of the complete line-up of Direct-Temp
• Direct-Temp/Gas Fireplaces & Stoves
• Direct-Temp/Pellet Stoves
• Direct-Temp/Multi-Fuel Stoves
Quoted right from selkirks direct temp brochure under product literature from the link I posted above. You get what you pay for. Fortunately my advice is free.
Sorry they posted conflicting information. I did not make it up but check the link I posted.
I installed Selkirk DT, the joint seals are pre-impregnanted with silicone. In fact the directions that came with the pipe said not to use a sealant. I also like the fact that if the internal vent leaks, it leaks into the outside air gap, back to the stove and out the vent. Not sure if that makes a difference or not, but somehow it makes me feel better. That, and the multiple CO detectors in the house!
Excel pellet pipe does not need silicone to seal the joints of the pipe. Page 6 #4 refers to caulking the space between the pipe and the insulated wall pass thru to eliminate any chance of draft. The pipe itself does not need caulking.
Well, I don't know what the best is, but OJ Simpson "Duravent" (snicker) is certainly the worst. Overpriced, poorly built leaky garbage. Do you want me to tell you how I really feel?
Does anyone know why selkirk would print this information in their online brochure if they say you don't need to use sealant? Maybe because they use the word "recommended" instead of "required"?
13. To ensure a good gas tight seal for positive pressure venting
the application of an RTV high temperature silicone to the male
collar of the joint is recommended (see Figure 1).
your looking at pellet pipe and not the direct temp. use my link for direct temp pipe.
I don't think silicone is "required" on any L-Vent per its UL Listing. It is "recommended" if you don't like fly ash blowing out the seems.
you all would have to start this thread the very next DAY AFTER I bought my chimney pipe. (sigh) bought a "kit" at Lowe's, for 200 bucks...which I thought was a really good price. seems that regular old "duravent" is quite a bit cheaper than the "pro" line. I figured that since I'm not going to burn corn, why spend the extra $$?
I hope I can still get the "regular" stuff...I do need a couple of pieces that they don't stock at the big-box stores, (like, a 45-degree elbow)and I don't see "regular" listed on-line anywhere. seems everyone online is selling "pro", exclusively.
So you can use direct for pellet installations?
I called Simpson Dura-Vent and talked to an engineer. He said "RTV may be required". He said "read what the stove manufacturer requires". I said of course you need RTV. He said " whatever the stove manufacturer suggests" . I told him the problem I was having with all the leaks. He said "your stove exhaust blower may be to strong". I said "then every stove out there must be to strong" He said "maybe". Then he said "from his experience new stoves need RTV and old ones don't" :roll: I wasn't impressed.
That selkirk stuff is the ticket! I like that I will not have to run a seperate pipe for intake air, a neater look. Fatter, but neater.
Good gracious....and to think, those people are making a $$$ killing in the Great Pellet Panic of 2008. Let's see, produce overpriced, low quality garbage, give people bad advice, and make lots of money doing it. Gooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooood.....